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Bisecting fat planks

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Forum topic by KnickKnack posted 11-15-2010 07:55 PM 906 views 0 times favorited 7 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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KnickKnack

1062 posts in 3031 days


11-15-2010 07:55 PM

Not sure about that title?

The biggest problem I face, aside from impatience, ineptitude, lack of tools etc, is that the wood that I can buy here in the wilds of Portugal is always at least 25mm (~1”) thick. The local wood yard (actually a carpenter’s shop) has beech, ash and oak in a nice variety of widths, but always 25/30mm fat. I did ask them if they’d do it for me, but they indicated that it would be a very very bad cut if they did.

To say the least this is a serious constraint on what I can design and build.

I know that I will almost certainly not be able to buy it here, but if I could, what would be the machine I need for resawing (I think it’s resawing, but please correct me if not) a 25mm piece of wood into 2 at ~12mm? I’d be happy doing 9” boards, but even 4” would be useful. A nice accurate cut for bookmatching would be great, but not necessary – just something so everything I make doesn’t weigh a ton(ne).

Thanks in advance.

-- "Do not speak – unless it improves on silence." --- "Following the rules and protecting the regulations is binding oneself without rope."


7 replies so far

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AaronK

1440 posts in 2929 days


#1 posted 11-15-2010 08:11 PM

the most obvious choice would be a bandsaw. for resawing you need a pretty hefty one – large capacity and large enough motor to cope with that. I have a 12” bandsaw that I have used to resaw up to 6” with some success, although it is not optimal (partly because I dont have a good blade or any experience!). A 14” bandsaw with a bigger motor and more capacity will make that easier.

for 9” (that’s a lot!) you may need to buy and install a riser on the bandsaw – it basically lifts the top up to increase capacity. If you go this route, make sure you buy a bandsaw that can be modified in this way – mine (an old craftsman) cant.

4-6” should definitely be easy enough though. Especially if you’re trying to split boards and are not particularly interested in obtaining thin veneers.

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AaronK

1440 posts in 2929 days


#2 posted 11-15-2010 08:13 PM

the bandsaw is so useful for so many more things as well – i’ve started using it a lot more on smaller projects, since it eats less wood than a table saw and is (i feel) inherently safer to use.

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Dragonsrite

136 posts in 2862 days


#3 posted 11-15-2010 08:17 PM

A bandsaw is the usual method of resawing. I have no idea of what is available in your area, but a 14” bandsaw could do up to around a 6” cut… more if you can add a riser to the saw. The wider the blade, the better.

A tablesaw can also be used for resawing lumber. My 10” saw will do about 3” wide boards in one pass. If you rotate the boards end-for-end you could double that. Make sure you use all the safety stuff … feather boards or similar … so that the board doesn’t catch the blade and get thrown back at you.

There is the option of resawing by hand with … ohhh, I don’t know what it’s called… basically a bow saw with the blade in the middle at a 90 degree angle to the frame.

I’m sure others will respond and include more information about which blades to use, additional safety devices and, maybe, other saws that can be used.

-- Dragonsrite, Minnesota

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AaronK

1440 posts in 2929 days


#4 posted 11-15-2010 08:32 PM

right – lets not forget the blood sweat and tears method of resawing by hand ;-) its certainly an option. before i had the bandsaw, I ended up resawing 9” wide boards on the table saw (3.5” on each side) and cutting out the middle by hand. it was not fun. A bandsaw significantly reduces waste compared to this method, and is much easier than doing it by hand.

dont get me wrong, i do a lot of stuff by hand, but boring holes and resawing planks are not among them!

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TopamaxSurvivor

17671 posts in 3141 days


#5 posted 11-15-2010 09:41 PM

I have done it a little by ripping one side on the table saw, turning it over with the same face against the fence, ripping again, then finishing with a handsaw. It is easy to burn teeh wood and over heat the balde. Might want to do a couple of cuts for each table saw rip.

-- Bob in WW ~ "some old things are lovely, warm still with life ... of the forgotten men who made them." - D.H. Lawrence

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KnickKnack

1062 posts in 3031 days


#6 posted 11-16-2010 02:37 PM

Thanks to everyone for the info – especially about the specific sizes/power to get the job done. I’ve surfed around – these are expensive, serious looking beasts! The local DIY shop has one bandsaw, but it looks like something that belongs in a dollhouse in comparison to the Grizzlys etc – oh, and they don’t sell spare blades.
The tablesaw method might be an option, but, like a thread elsewhere recently, the thought of that scares me.
Maybe the woodworking gods want me to design around what I can get?

Thanks again.

-- "Do not speak – unless it improves on silence." --- "Following the rules and protecting the regulations is binding oneself without rope."

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Jim Finn

2412 posts in 2387 days


#7 posted 11-16-2010 03:44 PM

I resaw a LOT of wood for my small crafty projects so I bought a G0555 from Grizzly with the riser. I make 1/4” and 3/8” slices of a 1” board. Works great but generates a LOT of dust so I bought a dust collection system for it. I have resawn on my table saw a lot before getting the bandsaw also. When using the bandsaw, espicialy, you will need to run the cut side through a thickness planer to even out and smooth up the surface, after resawing it. The board must be flat before resawing. Cupped or twisted board will not resaw well…..... So, I run the board through the thickness planer, smoothing out both sides, resaw it, and back to the planer to smoth out the cut sides of the two pieces. Table saw resawing is limited in size more but gives a better looking sawn surface. Good enough to just sand smooth with an orbital sander.

-- "You may have your PHD but I have my GED and my DD 214"

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