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How do I cut full blind splined mitres?

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Forum topic by rolandstronghammer posted 05-09-2017 04:39 PM 1316 views 0 times favorited 21 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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rolandstronghammer

49 posts in 698 days


05-09-2017 04:39 PM

The title says it all. I dont have a Festool Domino so im not sure how to do this otherwise and accurately. It needs to be precise so that the mitre edge is clean.

Something like this

The only thing I can find is this jig which is something that could be manipulated so that the router bit cuts into the center of the miter. Then I can clean up the edges with a chisel and install the spline.


21 replies so far

View Picklehead's profile

Picklehead

1040 posts in 1765 days


#1 posted 05-09-2017 04:50 PM

Biscuit joiner.

-- You've got to be smarter than the tree.

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rolandstronghammer

49 posts in 698 days


#2 posted 05-09-2017 04:56 PM



Biscuit joiner.

- Picklehead


I’d prefer a spline because biscuits are a bit weak for the application. Not to mention a biscuit joiner is $100.

View bandit571's profile

bandit571

18623 posts in 2519 days


#3 posted 05-09-2017 05:39 PM

Hammer and chisel..

Closed up to make this..

Top and bottom of the joint look like a simple miter joint…

Full Blind mitered Finger Joints…

-- A Planer? I'M the planer, this is what I use

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rolandstronghammer

49 posts in 698 days


#4 posted 05-09-2017 05:46 PM


- bandit571

That would be perfect but i don’t have the skills to do something like that at this point. Also, the miter has to be perfect and i think in order for this to come out clean you need to have done it plenty of times. Perhaps this is easier than it looks because it looks quite hard.

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johnstoneb

2640 posts in 2009 days


#5 posted 05-09-2017 05:53 PM

I understand you don’t have a biscuit joiner but biscuits in this application would be just as strong as a spline. a router would probably do what you want, Can you use dowels?

-- Bruce, Boise, ID

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rolandstronghammer

49 posts in 698 days


#6 posted 05-09-2017 05:54 PM


I understand you don t have a biscuit joiner but biscuits in this application would be just as strong as a spline. a router would probably do what you want, Can you use dowels?

- johnstoneb

Yes dowels would work but how do I drill them at a 45 degree angle.

View builtinbkyn's profile

builtinbkyn

1921 posts in 777 days


#7 posted 05-09-2017 05:56 PM

You can make that cut on your table saw. However it obviously needs to pass thru the top and bottom edges of the boards, which will expose the miter. I guess it would be possible to use the same species for the spline and that would somewhat camouflage the spline. The alternative would be to band the top and bottom edges with the same species, to conceal the spline.

-- Bill, Yo!......in Brooklyn & Steel City :)

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rolandstronghammer

49 posts in 698 days


#8 posted 05-09-2017 05:57 PM



You can make that cut on your table saw. However it obviously needs to pass thru the top and bottom edges of the boards, which will expose the miter. I guess it would be possible to use the same species for the spline and that would somewhat camouflage the spline. The alternative would be to band the top and bottom edges with the same species, to conceal the spline.

- builtinbkyn

I’d like it to be hidden. This would definitely work but i really do want it fully blind.

View bandit571's profile

bandit571

18623 posts in 2519 days


#9 posted 05-09-2017 06:06 PM

That WAS the first time I tried that joint.

I did post a blog about it, BTW. “Hidden Finger Joints” I think was the title…

Really not that hard to do, depends on how well you can handle a small saw, a chisel or two, and do a layout.

-- A Planer? I'M the planer, this is what I use

View jbay's profile

jbay

1856 posts in 735 days


#10 posted 05-09-2017 06:10 PM

I didn’t see how wide your piece is?
You could clamp the piece to your table saw fence and raise the blade, making sure the piece is centered so that you don’t come out the front or back. Move the fence and do it a second time if you want a fatter cut.
Then make 1 big football/sawblade shaped spline to fill it.

*NOTE: My saw doesn’t come straight up.
You would have to raise the blade to the height you want, and then make your marks where to put the piece on your fence.

-- If anyone would like to see my Portfolio, PM me and I would be glad to send you the link.

View duckmilk's profile

duckmilk

2543 posts in 1161 days


#11 posted 05-09-2017 06:12 PM



You can make that cut on your table saw. However it obviously needs to pass thru the top and bottom edges of the boards, which will expose the miter. I guess it would be possible to use the same species for the spline and that would somewhat camouflage the spline. The alternative would be to band the top and bottom edges with the same species, to conceal the spline.

- builtinbkyn

This would work. Mill the pieces slightly wider than needed, rip a thin veneer off of each edge, cut the slot on the table saw, glue the cut off veneer pieces back on. Should be virtually invisible.

-- "Duck and Bob would be out doin some farming with funny hats on." chrisstef

View bandit571's profile

bandit571

18623 posts in 2519 days


#12 posted 05-09-2017 06:13 PM

Router table?

Cut your miters first. Install a bit the correct size for the spline. Establish a start and stop point on the fence, set the fence to where the slot is centered in the end of the board. Cut will be a plunge cut. Plunge down at the start point, slide over to the stop point.

You might rig up a sled to hold the piece at the 45 degrees needed, and have it so you can slide the part onto the bit to start the cut. When you reach the end of the cut, you can slide the piece either back a bit, or shut off the router, and remove the finished piece.

-- A Planer? I'M the planer, this is what I use

View rolandstronghammer's profile

rolandstronghammer

49 posts in 698 days


#13 posted 05-09-2017 06:19 PM



I didn t see how wide your piece is?
You could clamp the piece to your table saw fence and raise the blade, making sure the piece is centered so that you don t come out the front or back. Move the fence and do it a second time if you want a fatter cut.
Then make 1 big football/sawblade shaped spline to fill it.

*NOTE: My saw doesn t come straight up.
You would have to raise the blade to the height you want, and then make your marks where to put the piece on your fence.

- jbay

Its roughly 2ft wide so this would work. not sure how to control the height of the blade so that the depth is consistent on both cuts.

View rolandstronghammer's profile

rolandstronghammer

49 posts in 698 days


#14 posted 05-09-2017 06:23 PM



Router table?

Cut your miters first. Install a bit the correct size for the spline. Establish a start and stop point on the fence, set the fence to where the slot is centered in the end of the board. Cut will be a plunge cut. Plunge down at the start point, slide over to the stop point.

You might rig up a sled to hold the piece at the 45 degrees needed, and have it so you can slide the part onto the bit to start the cut. When you reach the end of the cut, you can slide the piece either back a bit, or shut off the router, and remove the finished piece.

- bandit571

That’s what i was thinking except the pieces are too large to be held up at a 45 degree angle. I think i’d need to hold the router at a 45 degree angle and use a template and a straight bit to cut the spline slot.

View builtinbkyn's profile

builtinbkyn

1921 posts in 777 days


#15 posted 05-09-2017 07:02 PM

If the pieces are that wide, you can make the cut on your TS with stops. Then you have two choices as I see it – 1. make a spline and then taper the ends to match the blade cut. 2. clean out the rest of the cut with a chisel. Obviously you’ll need to test this all on scrap :)

-- Bill, Yo!......in Brooklyn & Steel City :)

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