Hardening Oil

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Forum topic by dustbunny posted 11-14-2010 01:32 PM 4230 views 0 times favorited 8 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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1149 posts in 3260 days

11-14-2010 01:32 PM

I built a US Postal mail truck bank with the plans from Rockler as a Christmas gift for my grandson.
The plans call for a hardening oil finish to be wiped on.
What would you recommend as a good hardening oil to use ?
I would prefer that the finish has a satin like look to it.

Thanks for any ideas you have to recommend,


-- Imagination rules the world. ~ Napoleon Bonaparte ~

8 replies so far

View grizzman's profile


7836 posts in 3268 days

#1 posted 11-14-2010 03:57 PM

i love using tung oil on a lot of projects…..several coats would give a nice finish to your gift for your grandson..but ,maybe others will suggest something better…just my 2 cents…grizz

-- GRIZZMAN ...[''''']

View Gene Howe's profile

Gene Howe

10350 posts in 3393 days

#2 posted 11-14-2010 04:05 PM

Watco is easy.
Don’t get it on the brass door, whatever you use.

-- Gene 'The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him.' G. K. Chesterton

View Jamie Speirs's profile

Jamie Speirs

4168 posts in 2821 days

#3 posted 11-14-2010 04:09 PM

I’m a Danish Oil fan.
It has a hardener in it already.
I think the hardener they use is JAP..


-- Who is the happiest of men? He who values the merits of others, and in their pleasure takes joy, even as though 'twere his own. --Johann Wolfgang von Goethe

View Karson's profile


35111 posts in 4365 days

#4 posted 11-14-2010 04:41 PM

I make my own 1/3 Varnish, 1/3 BLO, 1/3 Mineral Spirits and a 1/2 a cap of Japan Drier It will harden in the container so use all you make. That formulia is for 1/3 cup of each for 1 cup of finish.

-- I've been blessed with a father who liked to tinker in wood, and a wife who lets me tinker in wood. Southern Delaware soon moving to Virginia †

View patron's profile


13600 posts in 3306 days

#5 posted 11-14-2010 04:48 PM

i used watco for the box i did for my teacher
it surprised me
brush it on
and wipe of excess after 10 minutes
(it takes some rubbing ,
and two rags
so you don’t leave fingerprints)
and let dry overnight
then another coast
overnight dry again
then wax

came out good

any dust got rubbed off

easier than poly

don’t be afraid to rub it good
it gums as it dries

-- david - only thru kindness can this world be whole . If we don't succeed we run the risk of failure. Dan Quayle

View CharlesNeil's profile


2385 posts in 3835 days

#6 posted 11-16-2010 08:22 PM

Arm R seal in satin sheen.. 3 or 4 coats and call it a day

View PurpLev's profile


8534 posts in 3613 days

#7 posted 11-16-2010 08:31 PM

any film type finish is a hardening oil – poly…etc.

depending on the age of your grandson I’d recommend a food safe finish such as salad bowl finish which is also a hardening oil and creates a film is applied several coats.

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

View hObOmOnk's profile


1381 posts in 4092 days

#8 posted 11-16-2010 10:00 PM

Hardening oils are those oils which polymerize or harden to form a protective film, usually when exposed to air.
The most common Hardening Oils (aka Curing Oils or Drying Oils) used in woodworking include:
  • Linseed Oil
  • Tung Oil
  • Walnut Oil

Oil-based varnishes are made by “cooking” together a drying oil and a resin (such as polyurethane, alkyd or phenolic). The resultant product is neither resin nor oil; it is varnish. It’s like cooking together milk, eggs and sugar to produce custard.

When a raw drying oil is mixed with an oil-based varnish, it is an oil/varnish blend, e.g. Danish Oil.

Finishing products that contain “Oil” in the name may not be a pure hardening oil, e.g. Danish Oil and Tung Oil Finish. In fact, some Tung Oil Finish products may not contain any real Tung Oil.

Caveat emptor…

-- 温故知新

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