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| Forum topic by dbhost | posted 920 days ago | 1070 views | 0 times favorited | 22 replies | ![]() |
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920 days ago |
My shop is an attached garage, on one side of one of the walls, is my utility room, with a very handy 110V outlet that is doing nothing, just below the electric dryer (which is 220V). On the other side is the nook where I keep the dust collector and air compressor. In order to power everything, I have been running an extension cord into the house to get power for the dust collector, but this kind of kills the noise and dust isolation of the garage… I was thinking that I might could use that outlet to tie into, and get power to the other side of that wall… But I would like to know HOW to identify what circuit that outlet goes to… Any clue how to SAFELY trace a circuit without fooling with the breaker box (medical equipment in the house, the fewer times I trip the breakers, the better…) I THINK it is a 110V leg off of the 220V outlet for the dryer, and I certainly would NOT run the dryer and dust collector at the same time (LOML agrees) so that wouldn’t be a bad plan. Is it possible that this is where it ties in? It is about 12” below the 220V socket for the dryer, but is without a doubt, a standard 110V NEMA-15 outlet… (which could stand to be replaced, it’s almond, the rest in the house are white…) If this IS a tap off of one leg of the 220V 20 amp, is it safe to use for 110V, and if so, should I switch to a NEMA-5 (20 amp) outlet? -- Manufacturer of fine quality sawdust since 1984. Comments and advice on my shop welcome. Check it out at http://lumberjocks.com/dbhost/workshop. Gladly accepting shop build donations! |
22 replies so far
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#1 posted 920 days ago |
one way to identify the circuit provided that it is not labeled in the load center is with a remote circuit tester, basicly it is a 2 piece tool one piece plugs into the outlet the other you run over the load center and it will beep at the breaker that is connected to that outlet, mine works about 75% of the time. I wouldn’t expect the 220 line of the dryer to be connected to the outlet as if I remember correctly the dryer has to have a deticated circuit and it is generally just a bad pratice (can’t remember if its even legal) to branch off the dryer circuit as the breaker which is probably a 40 amp would easily overpower the 12 or 14 ga wire ran to the outlet. -- Potential is limited only by imagination |
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#2 posted 920 days ago |
This won’t be a tie-in to your 220V dryer circuit; the dryer should be on its own, isolated circuit. Of course, especially if you own an older home, a lot of crazy renos could have been done, I guess it is theoretically possible that they tapped into one leg of the 220V circuit, but this really wouldn’t make sense. A very likely possibility is that the receptacle is part of the circuit that supplies your washing machine. Your best bet if things aren’t labelled at the breaker box is to experiment with turning off the breakers. If this is not an option, you can buy a meter at one of the various big box home reno stores that you plug one part into the receptacle which then sends out a traceable signal to the handheld meter which you can hold up to the other receptacles to see if they are on the same circuit. Hope this helps! -- Rob, Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario |
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#3 posted 920 days ago |
buy a cheap 50 amp panel from on of the big box stores, these are 240 V boxes, dryer outlets are typical 30 amp circuits. I don’t know if you have a 3 prong, or 4 prong dryer outlet, but run 10/2 or 10/3 though the wall, and wire up the outlet with, 12/2 or 14/2 depending on the load. I say this with disclaimer as I even though I have passed all of my inspections, I am not in that trade. -- Life is to short to own an ugly boat. |
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#4 posted 920 days ago |
Okay I have eliminated both the dryer, and the washer as the source for the power to the receptacle. (And discovered the breaker marked “water heater” is actually for the dryer…) I guess it is off to Harbor Freight for a Circuit Breaker Detective. Kind of scary… They actually charge more than Amazon for the exact same item… -- Manufacturer of fine quality sawdust since 1984. Comments and advice on my shop welcome. Check it out at http://lumberjocks.com/dbhost/workshop. Gladly accepting shop build donations! |
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#5 posted 920 days ago |
Pete, an interesting idea… The dryer is 220V 30 amp. 12/2 is minimum wire size allowed here… I am seriously thinking about calling an electrician in on this… I could really use some help getting this right… -- Manufacturer of fine quality sawdust since 1984. Comments and advice on my shop welcome. Check it out at http://lumberjocks.com/dbhost/workshop. Gladly accepting shop build donations! |
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#6 posted 919 days ago |
dbhost—- I am a former (licensed) electrician, and still call on one of my still-practicing brethern when I hit a bump. Rob is right … on existing work, you never know what somebody may have tried to get away with during a renovation. My house was built back in the 50’s, and at some point, somebody wired a couple of extra outlets in the room I use for an office with rip cord. I would make the call. -- Gerry -- "I don't plan to ever really grow up ... I'm just going to learn how to act in public!" |
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#7 posted 919 days ago |
dbhost Once you have a panel in, it is then possible to become conversant with electrical code and run your own wire, that’s what I do. All my stuff meets the code when it is installed by me. But without that panel, you are an electrical fire waiting to happen. It takes 12 gauge wire to have a 20 amp breaker and outlet…......that’s the code. Pick up a code book at one of the BORG’s, you are a techie and it won’t take you long to understand this stuff. Your computer stuff is 100 times more complex. I draw the line at installing panels. Unless you do this stuff for a living, or are building the house from scratch, that is difficult. Jim -- Jim, Anchorage Alaska |
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#8 posted 919 days ago |
Incidently, I just had an electrician out to the house a couple of months ago to go through all my panels. We were having some dimming issues. I had resolved most of it by converting the DC, RAS, and TS to 240. I also had him check out the service entrance to the house. The main wires in all the panels and service entrance needed the screws tightened, and I thought that was part of my dimming issue, and it turned out to be right. But I wanted an expert in a that level, and someone to check that we hadn’t somehow overloaded our service, and we hadn’t. You have to know a fair amount to know what you don’t know. I am at that point, since at various times in my life I have formally studied electricity, and even wiring. Shops in school, ham radio, physics major for a while. I draw the line at panel installing. My brother’s house burnt down, no fault of his, except perhaps he should have had it inspected…....it was a cabin, undoubtedly not wired by an electrician. He lost a lot of stuff in that fire…....fortunately not the book he was working on, because I taught him to literally carry a copy on a floppy in his shirt pocket at all times. Between your loved ones, and all your stuff, you do not want an electrical fire. Get an electrician, and have him check out the rest of the house while he is at it. -- Jim, Anchorage Alaska |
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#9 posted 919 days ago |
I doubled with Gerald, my internet went down for a few minutes…....typical cable update on Sunday morning. So now you have two of us, and Gerald is the expert here. Get the electrician. -- Jim, Anchorage Alaska |
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#10 posted 919 days ago |
Gerald -- Jim, Anchorage Alaska |
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#11 posted 919 days ago |
I would call in an electrician to wire a new box in the garage. -- Doug... |
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#12 posted 919 days ago |
Doug Jim -- Jim, Anchorage Alaska |
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#13 posted 919 days ago |
My internet is being rebooted on a regular basis, so down to the shop for awhile. They do their updates early Sunday morning, but occasionally it drifts over past 0500 hours when they have trouble (that’s me guessing), so right now it is too quirky to use for a while…...... Jim -- Jim, Anchorage Alaska |
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#14 posted 919 days ago |
Jim ... I’m a little extra sensitive to electrical issues right now. My niece lost her home 4 weeks ago thanks to an electrical fire that started in a ceiling fan … total burn down. She said the ceiling fan was an ‘upgrade’ that was installed by the previous owner. Thank God no one was hurt and there was no loss of life … her 14 year old son was home sick from school, woke up with the house full of smoke and was able to get himself and the dogs out safely. -- Gerry -- "I don't plan to ever really grow up ... I'm just going to learn how to act in public!" |
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#15 posted 919 days ago |
Gerald My mother-in-law’s old house (she now lives in a small new one we had built for her) actually had zip cord in the circuit that fed the electric stove!!!! We checked it out when she noted she couldn’t run more than one burner at a time…............yikes!! I wouldn’t dream of not having a house inspected on my nickel before I purchased it, not anymore. That house actually was inspected, on paper, but we now know that couldn’t have happened. Or maybe it was inspected, and then the old owner ripped off the heavy duty wire for a new house, and just put zip cord in to make the circuit look live. Jim -- Jim, Anchorage Alaska |
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