Lapping grit

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Forum topic by richgreer posted 11-12-2010 07:06 PM 892 views 0 times favorited 5 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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4541 posts in 2495 days

11-12-2010 07:06 PM

Does anyone have experience with lapping grit?,43072

If so, can you comment on how well it works for lapping the sole’s of hand planes?

-- Rich, Cedar Rapids, IA - I'm a woodworker. I don't create beauty, I reveal it.

5 replies so far

View docholladay's profile


1287 posts in 2479 days

#1 posted 11-12-2010 09:00 PM

I have not used it. I have a large 6×48” belt sander that I use for the initial flattening of plane soles. Then I simply use a series of finer grits of sandpaper adhered to the top of my table saw top. I go down to 400 grit and then apply a coat of paste wax. Some folks prefer almost a mirror polish. I’ve never really thought that was necessary – at least not on the sole of the plane. Now I do want a mirror polish on the back of the blade and the tip of the bevel.

-- Hey, woodworking ain't brain surgery. Just do something and keep trying till you get it. Doc

View Dan's profile


3630 posts in 2301 days

#2 posted 11-12-2010 09:13 PM

Rich, I recently restored a few planes and flattened the soles with emery paper. I used spray adhesive to attach the sand paper to a sheet of glass. I started at 150 grit if the soles were bad and 180 if it it didn’t need much. I agree with the above poster that you don’t really need a mirror polish but you can get it by just going up to different grits.

I found that using the emery paper didn’t really take all that long. I think I was able to flatten the soles all in less then 30 min. IMO that will work just as well as the stuff in the link you posted.

-- Dan - "Collector of Hand Planes"

View David Kirtley's profile

David Kirtley

1286 posts in 2418 days

#3 posted 11-12-2010 10:19 PM

Silicon carbide grit is the same whether it comes in a bottle or glued to paper. It is a lot messier to work with in the loose form and here is the bad part: You really should have a separate piece of glass for each grit so they do not get cross contaminated. You will also be grinding glass at the same time you are grinding metal.

You could do it. It would be extra expense, trouble, and mess to do it this way. I would advise against it and say stick with abrasive sheets or stones.

-- Woodworking shouldn't cost a fortune:

View SouthpawCA's profile


263 posts in 2654 days

#4 posted 11-15-2010 05:02 AM

Rich … I used the lapping grit from LeeValley and I’ve used plain old sand paper. IMHO I think a belt sander belt cut open and laid flat (I hope I explained that correctly) does an excellent job and cheaper. Depending on the condition of the sole and what you are trying to do, you could start at 150/180/220 grit and work your way up. After I’m past 320 grit I then go to wet/dry paper and work my way through those grits.

-- Don

View Kindlingmaker's profile


2656 posts in 2947 days

#5 posted 11-15-2010 06:57 AM

I use 320 grit and mineral oil on my leather covered power hone.

-- Never board, always knotty, lots of growth rings

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