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Help finish will not dry

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Forum topic by Omar157 posted 05-07-2017 05:12 PM 405 views 0 times favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Omar157

55 posts in 667 days


05-07-2017 05:12 PM

Hey guys
I built a stand for a few benchtop tools using a solid birch door and some Doug fir lumber that were left over on a project. Both of these woods are prone to blotch and I ran out of pre conditioner. I read that I can thin down bullseye shellac with denatured alcohol down to a1lb cut and use that as a sealer to control blotchiness. I mixed it up and applied it to the stand. I then mixed up some Blo, satin poly and mineral spirits which is what I usually use to protect my shop furniture. The fir took on a gorgeous glow and the birch looks great but it just will not dry. It’s literally wet to the touch and it’s been 19 hours. It’s not even tacky. I have wiped it down with a fresh rag three times in hopes something will happen but nothing.


10 replies so far

View johnstoneb's profile

johnstoneb

2640 posts in 2009 days


#1 posted 05-07-2017 05:22 PM

BLO can take several days to dry sometimes. 19 hrs is nothing. Let it set for a couple of days

-- Bruce, Boise, ID

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a1Jim

116576 posts in 3414 days


#2 posted 05-07-2017 05:53 PM

Like Bruce said BLO can take a very long time to dry plus it doesn’t offer as much protection as a modern finish that drys much faster.

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

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Omar157

55 posts in 667 days


#3 posted 05-07-2017 06:05 PM

I’ve used this finish a bunch of times and it dried to the touch overnight. I was wondering if the shellac was the problem. I guess I have to just be patient.

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Omar157

55 posts in 667 days


#4 posted 05-07-2017 06:05 PM

Thank you guys

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mrbob

182 posts in 406 days


#5 posted 05-07-2017 06:45 PM

There normal Shellac has wax in it. There 2lb cut Seal Coat does not.

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Rich

1980 posts in 426 days


#6 posted 05-07-2017 07:46 PM



There normal Shellac has wax in it. There 2lb cut Seal Coat does not.

- mrbob

Good point mrbob. I know that the Tried & True original finish is oil and beeswax, and their web site states:

“However, it is imperative to know that once the Original Wood Finish is applied, the only other finish that will bond to it is another wax based finish. If you try to apply a non-wax based finish on top of the Original Wood Finish, it will result in the top layer gumming up and never developing a good bond.”

I’m not sure if wax in shellac will cause the same problem. Something to consider though.

-- No matter how much you push the envelope, it'll still be stationery.

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Omar157

55 posts in 667 days


#7 posted 05-08-2017 04:01 AM

Your right I didn’t even think of that

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Rich

1980 posts in 426 days


#8 posted 05-08-2017 04:29 AM

Honestly, Omar, I can’t say for sure. Finishing is very complicated. There are so many factors. I am not by any means saying that wax in the shellac is the cause of the problem because I’ve never tested that combination. I use a 50% cut of Seal Coat when I need to lock down the surface. It’s de-waxed. But since you’ve used that formula successfully before, something must have affected this application.

Hey, look at it this way. Most finishing disasters we see here involved sanding the finish off. All you have to do is wipe :)

In my days of missile development we had a saying that “RF is FM.” Well, for me, finishing is FM too, although experience is helping.

-- No matter how much you push the envelope, it'll still be stationery.

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Rick_M

10628 posts in 2217 days


#9 posted 05-08-2017 06:08 AM

The shellac would prevent the oil from soaking into the wood so it will probably just sit on the surface for a very long time. Generally it’s a bad idea to mix different finishes without a good reason. You mention blotch control but didn’t say anything about using stain so why do you need blotch control? Additionally oil is used to “pop” the grain as they say but you’ve already sealed it with shellac so the oil isn’t any use. What I would do is wipe off as much oil as possible. Clean the surface with naphtha or acetone, or mineral spirits might work. Sand the shellac smooth and finish again using only the polyurethane (you can add some mineral spirits to help it flow if you want). But first do a test with the poly to make sure it dries and isn’t the problem.

-- http://thewoodknack.blogspot.com/

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

4757 posts in 2330 days


#10 posted 05-08-2017 10:53 AM

You’ve essentially applied a danish oil finish (known as an “in the wood” finish) to a sealed surface. There’s very little reason to do that. I remove the danish oil (wipe it off with a solvent) than top coat with a wiping varnish (varnish thinned 50/50 or so).

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

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