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Forum topic by jonnybrophy posted 05-04-2017 03:23 AM 517 views 2 times favorited 11 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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jonnybrophy

160 posts in 451 days


05-04-2017 03:23 AM

Topic tags/keywords: question jointer refurbishing sanding arts and crafts

Hey guys,
So as of recently, some of you know that i have acquired a heavily rusted DJ-15 jointer.
The bed ways are badly rusted, and after using scothbrite pads, i am not achieving the finish i want.(also, black spots all over the top, that was removed in inconspicuous places with random sandpaper i had on hand)
I would like to move up to wet/dry sandpaper, but am pretty worried about putting the beds out of square(not entirely sure they already are though)
My plan is to buy the sandpaper and use a tile as a surface plate.

What do you guys think? What grit should i start at? do aliens exist?

Also, check out this post, for the look i am trying to get.

-- "If she dont find ya handsome, she better find ya handy"


11 replies so far

View TheFridge's profile

TheFridge

8333 posts in 1326 days


#1 posted 05-04-2017 05:04 AM

I wouldn’t mess with them beyond getting the surface rust off. To me that might be asking for trouble. Electrolysis might work or a huge bath of rust remover as well but I couldn’t confirm that.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

View MrUnix's profile

MrUnix

6017 posts in 2039 days


#2 posted 05-04-2017 05:32 AM

Yup… I wouldn’t use any abrasives on the machined ways… razor blade and scotch brite pads followed with a good waxing should be all that is needed. They don’t have to be pretty, just smooth so they slide well. If really bad, like Fridge sez… electrolysis or evapo-rust will take care of it.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

View jonnybrophy's profile

jonnybrophy

160 posts in 451 days


#3 posted 05-04-2017 01:38 PM

alright, thanks guys!

-- "If she dont find ya handsome, she better find ya handy"

View TungOil's profile

TungOil

748 posts in 335 days


#4 posted 05-05-2017 08:22 PM

I just bought some of the Wonderbar Rust Erasers from Garrett Wade and they worked awesome:

http://www.garrettwade.com/wonderbar-rust-eraser-gp.html

perhaps these might do the trick?

-- The optimist says "the glass is half full". The pessimist says "the glass is half empty". The engineer says "the glass is twice as big as it needs to be"

View Rich's profile

Rich

1987 posts in 429 days


#5 posted 05-05-2017 09:21 PM

Nice tip Mr. Oil. I could use those on my table saw top. The old garage door would drip on it if it was opened after a rain. It’s not rusted, but could look nicer. I’m gonna get some of those.

-- No matter how much you push the envelope, it'll still be stationery.

View TungOil's profile

TungOil

748 posts in 335 days


#6 posted 05-05-2017 11:02 PM

exactly what I used mine for- my TS had some surface rust after a leak. Worked like a champ.

-- The optimist says "the glass is half full". The pessimist says "the glass is half empty". The engineer says "the glass is twice as big as it needs to be"

View TheFridge's profile

TheFridge

8333 posts in 1326 days


#7 posted 05-05-2017 11:27 PM

I could be wrong but I would put those in the category of sandpaper or something that probably shouldn’t be used in ways.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

View jonnybrophy's profile

jonnybrophy

160 posts in 451 days


#8 posted 05-06-2017 12:05 AM

The erasers look very interesting, but i agree with TheFridge, they look rough, and I think i have finally gotten most of the rust off anyway. I used a coarse wire wheel. took off most of the rust and a little bit o’ my finger too.
Im ok though :)
I’ve moved on to painting, but I’ve only done the fence so, im still open to suggestions on the ways.

-- "If she dont find ya handsome, she better find ya handy"

View Rich's profile

Rich

1987 posts in 429 days


#9 posted 05-06-2017 12:16 AM

Well, TungOil is the only one here that has actually used the product, and based on the knowledgeable posts I’ve seen from him on LJ in general, I’ll defer to him regarding the performance of the erasers. His results sure look beautiful.

It takes a lot more than some light abrasive rubbing to take a table saw or jointer surface out of true. Maybe if there was deep pitting, and you kept going until it was all gone there’d be a problem.

-- No matter how much you push the envelope, it'll still be stationery.

View TungOil's profile

TungOil

748 posts in 335 days


#10 posted 05-06-2017 01:11 AM

Sounds like you have is solved.

For those interested in the Wonderbars, they are not as abrasive as sandpaper, but they are abrasives. Picture a firm rubber eraser with some silicone carbide grit embedded in it and you have it. They remove very little material- I ended up with the same fine dark particles on my hands you might get sharpening a plane or chisel. I started on the TS top using the fine, pretty quickly moved to medium, then finally the coarse. I’d still be there “erasing” had I stuck with the fine.

-- The optimist says "the glass is half full". The pessimist says "the glass is half empty". The engineer says "the glass is twice as big as it needs to be"

View diverlloyd's profile

diverlloyd

2337 posts in 1697 days


#11 posted 05-06-2017 01:47 AM

Woodcraft also sales a version of the eraser
https://www.woodcraft.com/search?q=Sandflex&button=search
I have a set of smaller ones that I bought at smokey mountain knife works. I used on my case brothers knife collection. If you decide to go the sandpaper route you may want to look at getting a couple quality auto body long sanding blocks.

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