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Any problems with SawStop?

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8K views 53 replies 30 participants last post by  Paradox 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
I'm about 95% into a final decision to upgrade my 2000 Delta to a SawStop machine (1.75 Cabinet) but wanted to run it by you guys in case any of you who might own one move any pointers or concerns. Were you able to use your existing jigs and accessories in the miter slots? I plan to put out about $3700 for the machine and don't want any regrets if I can help it.

Thanks
 
#3 ·
They are wonderful saws. A miter gauge etc will work the same in the Sawstop as it does in other saws. You may have to make a crosscut sled, because the blade-to-miter slot distance seems to vary from one saw to the next.

What kind of accessories are you getting to drive the price up that high? They are 1k less on Amazon.

You will love the new saw!
 
#4 ·
Swapping out to a dado is expensive and time consuming, so much so that I'm thinking of repairing my old Jet saw (motor repair #3 if I go ahead) just to use as a dado machine. I'll be rehabbing a house in another state and will eventually take that saw there, so it will be a temporary solution. Other than that, I'm happy with mine (contractor's model).
 
#5 ·
^^^ I've not had that experience. Takes maybe 60 seconds longer than a standard saw to swap a dado blade.
You have the cost of a dado cartridge, but unless something goes wrong, that should be a one-time expense.
 
#6 · (Edited by Moderator)
I went from a 2000 Unisaw to a SS (ICS). Nothing (literally) made for the Unisaw that rides in the miter slots will work on the SS without some changes. I had to reconfigure my tenoning jig, my Ibox, even my tapering jig…..none of that is a problem, BTW. They work fine once you re-adjust. It was a good move (IMHO) and the SS CS (the few times I contacted them) has been terrific. It's not been a problem to go back and forth between the dado set and regular saw blades. Changing the cartridge is a 1 minute affair, and easy to do.
 
#7 · (Edited by Moderator)
Swapping out to a dado is expensive and time consuming, so much so that I m thinking of repairing my old Jet saw (motor repair #3 if I go ahead) just to use as a dado machine. I ll be rehabbing a house in another state and will eventually take that saw there, so it will be a temporary solution. Other than that, I m happy with mine (contractor s model).
- Marcial
The only extra operation required for changing to a dado blade is swapping the cartridge and maybe a turn or two of the gap adjustment screw. Once you get accustomed it is a 3 seconds job. Setting a dado blade in general is very time consuming process on any saw till you get the exact blade width so I am not sure what you are complaining about.
OP, the biggest by far limitation of the sawstop is that you are limited to certain blades. For example you are not supposed to use ( technically you can but sawstop does not guarantee that the stop mechanism would be able to stop it in time) a 1/4" thick blade or those expensive dado sets with full body chippers.
You cannot also use some other attachments such as sanding disks or shaper heads.
Another rather minor thing is that you have to wait a few seconds every time you turn on the saw till the software runs all the tests. It is only a few seconds but if you turn off the saw often for example to change the blade it can get mildly irritating.
And last but not least you must be extra careful with aluminum jigs such as Incra miter gauge. In fact Incra gauge is the most common ( and often the only) reason of the brake deployment among the SS owners I talked to.
 
#8 ·
Thanks for all the comments

I am making my purchaser from a retail dealer that that I do a lot online business with. I live in ruralarea and will have to have it shipped. That is part of the total. I am ordering the cast iron table, the overhead dust collection, the then needed blade guard and a dado cartridge. With taxes, shipping it will come to about $3700+.

I am very interested in the comment about the IIcra. That is my go to guide when not using a sled
 
#13 ·
Were you able to use your existing jigs and accessories in the miter slots? I plan to put out about $3700 for the machine and don't want any regrets if I can help it.
Nothing that relied on the miter slot to blade alignment will work on a new saw… or even on an identical saw. Even just removing the table top for maintenance and then replacing it will throw them off. You can get close, but it's almost impossible to get it back exactly in the same place.

And while I agree that the SS is a fine machine, for the price you are looking at, you could upgrade not just your Delta contractor saw to something like a Unisaw, but also upgrade your band saw and jointer as well. Just saying.

Cheers,
Brad
 
#14 ·
Yeah, that alignment of the jigs and sleds is what really has me worried, but understand what you are saying. I may just have to accept the fact that they will need to be swapped out as needed.
 
#15 · (Edited by Moderator)
That's gr8 news for you Andy. Congrats on your purchase. That is a big chunk of greenbacks. But, if you're comfortable with it, then that's all that matters. I agree with Brad, but I was gonna say, you'd probably have to plan on making new sleds/jigs, etc. for your new beast. Hoping you are healing up quickly. You'll be wanting to play with that new beast when you get it. Best of luck to you.
 
#16 ·
I agree that the time to change from standard blade to dado set is minimal once you have done it a few times. As others have said, adjustment of sleds, etc. will surely be necessary. I use a large cross cut sled and had to re-do the runners. I'm not sure I get the thing about the Incra miter gauges. I have an Osborne (aluminum) and I tripped the safety mechanism by running it into the blade. The thing is, it was my error. After moving the miter gauge fence close to the blade to support a 45 degree cut, I returned the fence to 90 but forgot to move it back for proper clearance of the blade. At a cost of $100 for a blade and $70 for a new cartridge, that mistake won't happen again. So I guess I'm saying Incra or otherwise, you have to make certain the gauge will clear the blade before turning on the saw.
 
#17 ·
Hi, Roger and all:

Regarding the 95% I referred to in my opening post…....well, that missing 5% is still "dogging" me. That is a big chunk of change!!!!! What do I do with the old Model Delta 36-444????? I'd be lucky to get a couple of hundred bucks for it and all the accessories together. Add that to the fact that I will probably have to duplicate or purchase new sleds and jigs…............I'm really getting cold feet although that might have to do with the fact that I am no spring chicken. I hate the idea of leaving a bunch of stuff the family has to get rid of and especially if among it was a fairly new SawStop machine. Even trashing that thing is not going to be a piece of cake unless I arrange to have Goodwill pick it up and they are getting mighty picky nowadays. Maybe my recent purchase of a "Gripper" and accessories will settle what is going through my head right now.

I fully expect to hear from my "Biker" friend on this one…...LOL.
 
#18 ·
It appears that you were not 95%.

Selling a used Sawstop will not be a problem.

You just need to decide why you want the SawStop and is it worth it for you.

I slid a Jet Xacacta to get my SawStop PCS. The big thing for me was safety as I get older. Just paying attention and being careful was not enough for me. The Sawstop added a layer of protection as I age.
 
#20 ·
I have a 3 HP PCS and originally started out looking to put an upgrade fence on a 50+ year old Craftsman. So spending that kind of money was not at all what I set out to do. Having done it, I've never regretted it, and actually quite the opposite.

Any negatives with the PCS are nit picky. Worst things I can come up with is having to adjust brake cartridge clearance with different blades, since 10" is not the same thing on every blade. But that adjustment takes just moments. Probably isn't even needed. And you get to know your blades. So you know to turn the adjustment 1 1/2 turns after switch from blade X to blade Y. And then just confirm the clearance with the gauge they provide.

Also, changing blades on a SawStop is super easy. I don't have experience with other modern saws, so I'm not saying it is unusual. But blade guard removes with a simple flip of a lever. Blade is easily accessible and it uses two wrenches. None of this jamming a block of wood into the blade to hold it while tightening or loosening the nut.

Riving knife attaches in the same place as the guard and again, I can't see how it could be any easier to switch between the two.

And sure, you have to swap out the cartridge when using a dado stack. As mentioned, goes really quick once you've done it a few times. You'll spend more time shimming your dado stack to get the exact width of that cut than you will swapping brake cartridges.

Concerning the expense, once you spread it over a few years, it really doesn't matter. And you say you're getting older. If anything, you may be more likely to make a mistake as you get older. It's a reality that we get a little slower at everything as we age. A little more absent minded, a little harder to see and hear. So having a saw that you can't cut off your fingers is more of a plus the older you get.

And it's a fantastic saw, regardless of the safety feature.

By the way, I've yet to see anyone express regret over buying a SawStop. Hurts the wallet a bit more up front, but it will put a grin on your face every time you use it.

Treat yourself, enjoy it, and I'm sure you'll never look back.
 
#21 ·
Hi Andy,
I do not know how soon you will buy your Sawstop- assuming you get that last 5%- but here's something to think about regarding dust collection. Sawstop announced a week ago they will be selling a floating dust collector guard which has the advantage of not having the operator change out the blade guard to a riving knife when making non-through cuts. It looks like it's sized about the same as the Excalibur guards I've seen years ago. The cost is probable much more than the standard overarm collector but it might be worth waiting for, or at least worth finding out when the Floating Guard will be available before you make your purchase.
Marc
 
#22 ·
My cns had a pretty bad vibration, customer service had me try a few things that isolated the motor. They decided to send me a new motor. Off hand it is around 30lbs. They sent the motor, 2 cartridges, and a premium blade overnight!

I think shipping that much overnight from the West coast to the East coast was a couple hundred on top of what they sent me. They also extended my warranty a year longer.

Plus it is very good saw.
 
#24 ·
I've had the "newer style" PCS for about a year. I went in to buy another Powermatic, but came home with this. There is nothing that I don't like about the saw. The adjustments are far superior to anything I've used, the finish and quality of the "guts" is top-notch, and best of all, it's safe. If I had one gripe on anything, it's the table inserts. I don't care for the design of the lock mech, but it does work well! The fence is great, the access doors to clean everything is a cool feature, I'd say click the "buy" button and don't look back. I agree with most on here, blade swaps, cartridge setups and the like are super easy and quick once you do it a time or three. Just make sure you bypass the brake cartridge on suspect materials and adjust your aluminum fence on your Incra if you have one. I don't know why I know that, just a guess ;)
 
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