Need help building a jig to cut mitered corners for jewelry boxes

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Forum topic by Mike57 posted 11-09-2010 06:20 AM 4868 views 0 times favorited 13 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View Mike57's profile


61 posts in 3325 days

11-09-2010 06:20 AM

Topic tags/keywords: jig miter mitre corner jigs compound sliding miter saw

I recently bought a compound sliding miter(?) saw (Hitachi C10FSH) and want to build a bunch of jewlery boxes for gifts for the holidays. Does anyone have any suggestions for a jig that I can use to cut mitered corners?


13 replies so far

View Chip's profile


1904 posts in 3515 days

#1 posted 11-09-2010 06:36 AM

I use a sled on my table saw. Search “miter jig” in LJ Search. Maybe something useful will pop up to help you.

-- Better to say nothing and be thought the fool... then to speak and erase all doubt!

View Don's profile


514 posts in 2495 days

#2 posted 11-09-2010 06:41 AM

My recommendation is to use a lock miter bit and cut them on a router table. It makes assembly a breeze.

-- Don - I wood work if I could. Redmond WA.

View crank49's profile


3979 posts in 2393 days

#3 posted 11-09-2010 07:05 AM

Maybe I’m missing something here, but a sliding compound miter saw for making jewelry boxes seems like using a tractor and bushhog to mow your yard. I can’t imagine a jig that would make that any easier. Of course, the miter saw will cut miters very well, but I think of jewelry boxes as using dovetail or box joint type construction. I guess it could be used to cut stock to length; and using a stop, could produce a lot of material cut to repeatable length; which is good for making a bunch of anything.

-- Michael: Hillary has a long list of accomplishments, though most DAs would refer to them as felonies.

View Ken90712's profile


16864 posts in 2611 days

#4 posted 11-09-2010 12:19 PM

Mike, are you talking the miter splines (keys) for the 90’s or the 45’s for the corners. The 45’s just use a stop block so there all the exact length. Here is a simple jig for the corner splines.

Hope this helps.

-- Ken, "Everyday above ground is a good day!"

View rance's profile


4243 posts in 2583 days

#5 posted 11-09-2010 01:32 PM

Mike, I recommend (in order of preference), a Miter Saw, your Miter Gauge on the TS, or a Router. I use the Miter Saw in my box making class. The key to ANY of these weapons is that they need to be accurate. To use your Miter Saw, you do need a backer board to prevent tearout on the back side and possibly on the bottom as well. I cut these with the board standing upright(grain going horizontal) as opposed to laying flat. I believe you can get better accuracy that way by using the stops on your saw rather than that tiny scale on the back.

-- Backer boards, stop blocks, build oversized, and never buy a hand plane--

View richgreer's profile


4541 posts in 2497 days

#6 posted 11-09-2010 06:10 PM

I assume there are miter saws with the precision and accuracy to cut good miter corners for a jewelry box – but not in my shop. I much prefer to use a table saw for this.

For me, a miter saw is for cutting stock to length.

-- Rich, Cedar Rapids, IA - I'm a woodworker. I don't create beauty, I reveal it.

View CharlieM1958's profile


16229 posts in 3640 days

#7 posted 11-09-2010 06:22 PM

I cut miters for small boxes on my miter saw all the time. If the saw is properly adjusted and the blade is good, you can get excellent results. I’m just not sure what kind of jig you might be looking for.

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

View j_olsen's profile


155 posts in 2594 days

#8 posted 11-09-2010 06:30 PM

i’m with charlie
i use my miter saw al the time
if i had to do something that was a bit larger than my miter saw could handle i would go to the table saw with a dedicated sled

-- Jeff - Bell Buckle, TN

View CharlieM1958's profile


16229 posts in 3640 days

#9 posted 11-09-2010 08:08 PM

This might be a good place to throw this in: The crucial factors in getting good miters on a box are twofold. The first thing is to make sure you are getting a true 45 degree cut… that’s pretty obvious. The second thing is to make sure that opposite sides are exactly the same length. (This is the one I overlooked as a rookie). A 1/16th difference in the length of opposing sides on a small box is going to throw your miters off no matter how good the cuts are. The key (I know it seems obvious to most) is after you cut the first two sides, don’t try to cut their opposites by measuring… use the pieces themselves ad templates instead.

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

View Mike57's profile


61 posts in 3325 days

#10 posted 11-10-2010 02:40 PM

Hi Ken,

Initially I was talking about the mitered corners, but you link to the spline jig was really helpful. I’ll be building one of those soon!

View Mike57's profile


61 posts in 3325 days

#11 posted 11-10-2010 02:47 PM

Hi jeff and Charlie,
For the sides that fit, it looks like a simple clamp and stop block is working. For those that don’t fit in the miter saw, I am going with a dedicated cross cut sled and stop blocks. Charlie, you thoughts on the sizing is right on, stop blocks make all the difference in accuracy and speed!

View Moron's profile


5032 posts in 3316 days

#12 posted 11-10-2010 02:52 PM

As CharlieM1958 says…................its easy.

cut the miter on one side of each piece.

place a “stop” clamped to the miter saw fence

then cut the other ends

-- "Good artists borrow, great artists steal”…..Picasso

View RalphBarker's profile


80 posts in 2192 days

#13 posted 11-10-2010 07:11 PM

FWIW, I use a shooting board and a hand plane to “tune” box components, so edges are exactly 90° to the top/bottom, the miters are exactly 45° and the corresponding sides are precisely the same length.

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