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Hands are bleeding

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Forum topic by rolandstronghammer posted 04-27-2017 01:46 AM 575 views 0 times favorited 11 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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rolandstronghammer

49 posts in 702 days


04-27-2017 01:46 AM

I swear I’ve been trying to flatten the iron for my spokesshave for a straight hour now. The upper left hand corner is hanging on for dear life. My finger tips are bleeding.


11 replies so far

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rolandstronghammer

49 posts in 702 days


#1 posted 04-27-2017 02:04 AM

Done. Finally. Time to test.

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BlasterStumps

401 posts in 279 days


#2 posted 04-27-2017 02:29 AM

Nice work. looks good.
I can sympathise for sure. I spent about an hour flattening and polishing the sides of a card scraper that I had made out of a fairly thin piece of saw blade. I worked until my fingers were sore and it still looked like I had a long ways to go. I decided to switch over to sand paper to get it flat then switched back to the diamond stones to finish. It still took quite a while. So yes, I can fee your pain but you will be rewarded with a tool that works like it should. By the way, I have one of those blades like yours but I busted it in half messing with it. I learned a lesson there. Congrats on getting yours in fine shape.

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builtinbkyn

1924 posts in 780 days


#3 posted 04-27-2017 02:38 AM

Next time you can try using some double-sided tap and bond the iron to a solid piece of hardwood. It will give you something to hold on to ;)

-- Bill, Yo!......in Brooklyn & Steel City :)

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waho6o9

8036 posts in 2416 days


#4 posted 04-27-2017 02:53 AM

I use magnets embedded in hardwood as my finger tips used to bleed as well.

Double sided tape is a good idea too.

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DrDirt

4414 posts in 3581 days


#5 posted 04-27-2017 03:27 AM

Good thing is that is usually an “only needed once..EVER” operation.

-- “The two most important days in your life are the day you are born and the day you find out why.” Mark Twain

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WhoMe

1564 posts in 3083 days


#6 posted 04-27-2017 03:48 AM

Can you go a grit or two coarser and can you wear some type of glove.
I have had many a blade like that. Some of which I have has success with and some, not so much. I start with a belt sander belt glued to a piece of flat granite and try to use the palm of my hand with a glove on to get it as flat as possible before moving to finer grits to remove sanding scratches. It takes a while sometimes .

Never mind, I’m a little late. Had the reply done but forgot to hit send…

-- I'm not clumsy.. It's just the floor hates me, the tables and chairs are bullies, the wall gets in the way AAANNNDDD table saws BITE my fingers!!!.. - Mike -

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Rick_M

10641 posts in 2219 days


#7 posted 04-27-2017 04:54 AM

It shouldn’t take more than a few minutes to flatten a blade that size. Start with 80 grit until flat then polish as desired.

-- http://thewoodknack.blogspot.com/

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Rrrandy

212 posts in 318 days


#8 posted 04-27-2017 05:01 AM

The blood must be on your other hand…

-- Y'all need to locate a sense of humor. Borrow one if you can't find yours...

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HokieKen

4515 posts in 978 days


#9 posted 04-27-2017 11:19 AM

Based on the reflection in that first pic, I’d say you started with an abrasive that was way too fine. I usually start with 220 and drop down until I get it right. Should be 20 minutes max to flatten a plane iron. Less than that for a spokeshave.

FWIW, I’m not being critical, just offering some hard-earned advice ;-P The important thing is that you got there!

-- Kenny, SW VA, Go Hokies!!!

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Mikesawdust

324 posts in 2878 days


#10 posted 04-28-2017 07:30 AM

Just an idea, but does a spoke shave need to be flattened that accurate to the whole back or could you put a 1 degree bevel on the back and only flatten the edge?

-- You never cut a piece to short, you are just prepping that piece for a future project

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Smitty_Cabinetshop

14857 posts in 2458 days


#11 posted 04-28-2017 10:54 AM

I personally consider it a do-it-once, do it right operation. The back bevel would get it done, but wouldn’t be the way you’d want the cutter to stay forever, i.e., wouldn’t repeat the bevel operation at each sharpening. And at that point, you’d adjust technique or fettle for a cutter that’s no longer beveled.

And, it’s not what this is, but a MF No. 1 cigar shave flat out will not work with a back bevel or a secondary bevel. Tools with those constraints tend to draw me away from anything but a single bevel that’s honed to refresh but otherwise left alone.

-- Don't anthropomorphize your handplanes. They hate it when you do that. -- OldTools Archive --

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