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Forum topic by Cindy posted 04-23-2017 12:49 AM 378 views 0 times favorited 6 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Cindy

2 posts in 239 days


04-23-2017 12:49 AM

I’m needing help getting started with a new project. I have to make a couple of clothes racks for a retail store. I’m having trouble figuring out how to attach the top and bottom where it will be strong. Any help would be appreciated. Pictures below are what they should look like when completed.

 photo 22888_zpsxjfgpqhf.jpg

-- Cindy


6 replies so far

View mtnwalton's profile

mtnwalton

17 posts in 865 days


#1 posted 04-23-2017 05:02 AM

Can’t tell from the pics if these are laminate covered or not. Anyway I would begin by building the uprights and pipe as a unit (looks like 2×4s). Then build the base from 2×6 aligning the cross members with each upright. Add a 3/4” plywood or mdf cover with accurate openings cut for the uprights. Attach uprights from below – glue and bolt /nut. Looks like casters are needed also.

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JBrow

1274 posts in 759 days


#2 posted 04-23-2017 02:49 PM

SeeSaw,

The option that comes to mind is a mortise and through tenon where the tenon is captured on the underside of the base.

One way to achieve this is a wedged tenon, where the mortise in the base is slightly flared at the bottom of the base and a wedge is driven into a saw kerf slot cut into the tenon. The wedge would flare the tenon and mechanically lock the post to the base. Flaring the mortise could take some time and if there are a lot of these mortises, perhaps a similar alternative would be a bit faster.

The alternative to the wedged tenon would be to use what I will call a spline to lock the tenon in place. The through tenon on the post would be long enoughso that a spline would fit into a slot cut into the tenon where the tenon emerges from the underside of the base. The spline would be glued and screwed to the tenon where the spline is snug against the underside of the base. The spline could be thin or wide enough so that the spline could be glued and screwed to the underside of the base. The slot in the tenon could be cut with a router bit or with the leg standing upright on the table saw with a dado blade. Of course plenty of vertical support would be required to hold the post in position if the table saw is used. This second alternative is shown in the sketch…

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Loren

9633 posts in 3487 days


#3 posted 04-23-2017 03:18 PM

I would build a 2x frame, attach the verticals
to it, going all the way to the floor, and make
a plywood top with rectangle holes to fit over
the verticals. Caulking will fill any gaps prior
to painting,

View jbay's profile

jbay

1857 posts in 738 days


#4 posted 04-23-2017 03:59 PM

If I were making this I would build and attach a strong azz box below the base and let the upright slide through the base and go into it. (Making sure of a good snug fit) Then screw the upright to the box. At the top I would insert the pipe and predrill and screw the pipe through the top into each upright. I would go all the way through the pipe.

-- If anyone would like to see my Portfolio, PM me and I would be glad to send you the link.

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jbay

1857 posts in 738 days


#5 posted 04-23-2017 04:49 PM

Here is another option that might be easier. I think it would be strong enough.

-- If anyone would like to see my Portfolio, PM me and I would be glad to send you the link.

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Cindy

2 posts in 239 days


#6 posted 04-23-2017 10:24 PM

Thanks for the quick responses. I like the mortise and through tenon idea, but don’t have the tools or knowledge to go that route. I’ve decided to use a combination of suggestions. I’m going to combine jbay’s and Loren’s ideas. I’ll let you know kw if I have more questions after I get started in the next day or so.
Thanks Again,
Cindy

-- Cindy

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