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Really want a planner too many differences need advise.

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Forum topic by 3Jays posted 04-21-2017 05:28 PM 1725 views 0 times favorited 11 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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3Jays

3 posts in 37 days


04-21-2017 05:28 PM

Quick intro,

New to woodworking and I’m in the process of building the garage shop bought a Grizzly G0690 table saw with and added router insert wing. I am interested in cabinetry for aquariums and or custom built ins etc etc.

Through discussions with people on IG and Youtube I see many use a planer and jointer to get many jobs done. I’ve been told that is something I would most likely need in the shop. The issue is there are way to many choices to wrap my head around. Helix blades, straight blades, two blades, three blades, Spiral cutter head. Then we go into HP 1 horse two horse 3 horse 240V single phase etc. Then there is planer/jointer combos and the confusion starts over. My garage is only 19 wide by 25 wide i believe. So space is also an issue.

I was leaning towards a combo unit to save space but they look as they would be a nuisance to operate. Jointers I understand their main purpose is to make a surface truly flat. Then the planers job is to make them smooth. I need some advice from others to help guide me.

The planers range from Wen’s 224 dollar model and up to thousands. So the question is whats a happy median quality product that will last for years to come?


11 replies so far

View jmartel's profile

jmartel

7006 posts in 1756 days


#1 posted 04-21-2017 05:42 PM

Figure out how wide of a board you need to plane. If it’s 13” or less, get a Dewalt 735 which is nearly always rated as the top overall benchtop planer. If it’s over that, Grizzly makes good planers for relatively inexpensive.

-- The quality of one's woodworking is directly related to the amount of flannel worn.

View ohtimberwolf's profile

ohtimberwolf

691 posts in 1958 days


#2 posted 04-21-2017 05:56 PM

You might also consider finding a good used DW734 which ranks right up there just under the 735 but would cost you less if money is a factor.

-- Just a barn cat, now gone to cat heaven.

View Holbs's profile

Holbs

1509 posts in 1635 days


#3 posted 04-21-2017 06:15 PM

Depending on what you are doing in that garage shop space, you have ample enough real estate for machinery. To give an idea, I have a 20×20 2 car attached garage. My machinery: Delta Unisaw, Powermatic 66 (both are full sized cabinet saws with 52” rails), bosch 4100 & gravity stand, 8” long bed jointer, 15” Jet planer, dual bag 3HP Grizzly dust collector, drill press cart, miter saw cart, sanding cart, rockwell lathe, 4’ lumber cart, 14” bandsaw, 13” Rigid lunchbox planer, and a unicorn. If I played “Tetris” as everything is mobile, I could even park my car in the garage.
Jointer makes bottom side flat. Planer’s purpose is not to make the wood smooth but makes topside parallel to the bottom side so that you have dimensional lumber (meaning, 90 degree angles everywhere). There are regular forum posts about new planers and new jointers and posts about used planers and jointers. benchtop/lunchbox versus their bigger cousins. Review what is said. Never used 2 blade heads as everything I have use 3 blades. I could go spiral head but the cost is out of the realm of my wallet. Plus, 3 blade (and quite possibly 2 blade) heads work as intended.
110v versus 220v: 110v is universal and standard so outlets everywhere and ready to go. 220v is more heavy duty, easier upon the motor, less amps (which is a concern depending on how much you have available to use at once throughout the house), usually more horsepower.
A thought: since you have a Grizzly table saw and taking interest in planer/jointer… keep in mind future dust collection and ducting. That opens up even more can of worms :)

-- The Carpenter Bee is derived from the Ancient Greek word wood-cutter

View LDO2802's profile

LDO2802

69 posts in 36 days


#4 posted 04-21-2017 08:23 PM



Figure out how wide of a board you need to plane. If it s 13” or less, get a Dewalt 735 which is nearly always rated as the top overall benchtop planer. If it s over that, Grizzly makes good planers for relatively inexpensive.

- jmartel

^^Truth. The blades are reversible so you get twice the life out of them and it comes with a spare set! After that, buy the carbon fiber ones. But if you don’t have a jointer, the dewalt becomes more difficult, because a planer doesn’t so much make a piece smoother, it makes one side parallel to the other side. So if you have an uneven side on the bottom, it will cut a wonky angle on the top. I joint my wood on one side, put that jointed side against the fence and joint it again, then I finish off the other two sides with the two flat pieces I just jointed facing down(one at a time). Helical cutterheads run as much as the planer itself, and while they have for rotatable sides, its still a lot of money when the regular blades work just fine.

Just my two cents.

View jdmaher's profile

jdmaher

400 posts in 2185 days


#5 posted 04-21-2017 08:46 PM

A planer is a good idea. A Dewalt 734/5 will not take up too much room.

Most lumber can be acquired surfaced 2 sides. So one face is flat and one edge is straight. The planer smooths the other face (and cutting the board to width on the tablesaw straightens the other edge). Equally importantly, having a planer let you get all boards for a project to a consistent thickness. I never met two 4/4 boards that were the same thickness, exactly. So panel glue-ups are always a pain, unless you run all the boards through the planer.

I’m not so sure the jointer is necessary, at least for now. As I said, try to buy S2S and you’re probably okay with a planer. When I’ve had boards with a not so very flat face, I’ve “skip-planed” or used a planing sled to get things flat enough. And there are half a dozen methods to temporarily attach a straight edge to a board and rip it on the tablesaw to get a straight enough edge. If I had a jointer, I’d use it; but every time I get the money, I spend it on something else before I can make up my mind which jointer to buy.

-- Jim Maher, Illinois

View eflanders's profile

eflanders

154 posts in 1456 days


#6 posted 04-21-2017 09:11 PM

Let’s look at your situation another way. You say you want to build cabinets. Many cabinet makers use sheet stock (oak faced plywood) vs. all hardwood. A planer isn’t used on sheet stock, but a jointer is used commonly for cabinet work. If you plan to work with reclaimed lumber more than clear stock, then you want both machines and with helical heads. The material you are working with determines the machine(s) needed.

View teejk02's profile

teejk02

463 posts in 731 days


#7 posted 04-21-2017 09:27 PM

I need to correct one thing…OP is correct on the role of the jointer…get a flat surface. The planer comes in to finish the jointed surface to uniform thickness, not to smooth the surfaces. If you were really good with a jointer you would not need the planer for smoothing because your jointer will be just fine for that purpose.

View brtech's profile

brtech

968 posts in 2528 days


#8 posted 04-21-2017 09:43 PM

The other thing the jointer does is make one edge perpendicular to the jointed surface.

Your goal is to end up with S4S, meaning 4 flat sides perpendicular to each other and parallel to the opposite side. You joint one face, then you joint one edge perpendicular to the jointed face. Then you plane the opposite surface parallel to the jointed face, and to the thickness you want the board to be. Then a table saw cuts the ends to length (with the jointed edge on the miter gauge), and width (with the jointed edge running along the TS fence).

View 3Jays's profile

3Jays

3 posts in 37 days


#9 posted 04-22-2017 12:47 PM



Depending on what you are doing in that garage shop space, you have ample enough real estate for machinery.

- Holbs


Thank you for your advice

Still working on kicking the wife and kids out the garage. I’m 75% there LOL. When I get some time I can start building custom cabinets for the Laundry room and the closets. That will create more storage indoors. I have the shop layout on paper just building as I go. I still need to build a work bench and still have to start purchasing clamps to build the bench. I took a leap of faith and started my own business after being used for years by employers. So I’m building daily. So far So good.

jmartel, ohtimberwolf, LDO2802

I have been looking at Dewalt it has awesome reviews. The only reason I held back so long is because I want to build this business and hopefully one day move to a bigger building somewhere out of the house. So been planning on trying to buy machines that I can hold onto for years. However, I might just start with the Dewalt just to get going. 1800 a little steep for a planer at this point. However, 699 for the Dewalt and an upgrade to a helical heads as eflanders suggested will still put you over 1100. I have also been looking at the Grizzly G0453ZW since I already have 240v Line ran for the table saw and the planer will essentially sit right next to the plug I can unplug the table saw and use the planer. I don’t know. I do know I need one and a Jointer eventually. I do appreciate all the information because at least now I have a better understanding at what these machines actually do. Thank you all.

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3Jays

3 posts in 37 days


#10 posted 04-22-2017 01:01 PM

Had another thought. Is it less expensive to buy rough cut lumber than already milled lumber? That way you can get more for your money if you do have a planer and jointer.

A guy I know bought 5 8/4 oak slabs for 200 bucks and used them as a bar top at a restaurant. I buy one 1×8x8 of oak at HD for like 45 bucks. So is it less money BF for rough cut vs S4S?

View Holbs's profile

Holbs

1509 posts in 1635 days


#11 posted 04-22-2017 01:12 PM

Due to the law of economics and DIY, it shall be always cheaper to buy rough of anything as long as you put effort into it to fine tune it. Goes for cars, lumber, a house, a marriage, etc.
At the same time, if you are going after a single project, it would be cheaper to purchase dimensioned lumber rather than purchasing machinery or hand planes for rough lumber. Depends on the short term/long term goals.
I can go out and chop down a tree of oak, dimension the lumber, sell it or use it on projects. Free lumber.

-- The Carpenter Bee is derived from the Ancient Greek word wood-cutter

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