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Forum topic by Maveric777 posted 11-02-2010 02:11 PM 1502 views 1 time favorited 14 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Maveric777

2692 posts in 2538 days


11-02-2010 02:11 PM

Topic tags/keywords: question finishing wax

I did some serious homework on waxes last night. I read and read… and stayed up way past my bed time. I learned a good bit about types, application, coloring, etc…. but the one thing I didn’t see was life span of the finish on the product. I know a lot of factors contribute to how long the wax finish will hold its luster like light, heat, temp, humidity, usage, handling, and all the other day to day stuff…. I just have no clue how long it will hold up.

I guess I should clarify that I am talking about using a wax finish on boxes or small projects like that. I see wax being used regularly by some of my favorite Lumber Jocks, and really want to give it a go. I just don’t want to make a piece for some one with that finish and it not hold up….

Any rule of thumbs I should know?

Thanks for any insight….

-- Dan ~ Texarkana, Tx.


14 replies so far

View mafe's profile

mafe

11140 posts in 2551 days


#1 posted 11-02-2010 03:24 PM

I will guess the wax will slowly be absorbed by the wood, but it depends of the types, so I think there are no clear answer. Some are very liquid, and sime turns rock hard, and if the wood has been proper oild first, I see no problem.
A advantage of wax I suppose are that it’s easy to rewax, wher a varnish are a bigger work to redo!
Just my thoughts,
Mads

-- MAD F, the fanatical rhykenologist and vintage architect. Democraticwoodworking.

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CharlieM1958

16241 posts in 3680 days


#2 posted 11-02-2010 03:51 PM

It’s hard to say because of all the factors you point out, but I would think amount of handling is the number one issue. I have some boxes that have pretty much just sat on the shelf for several years, and they feel like they were just waxed yesterday.

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

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rivergirl

3201 posts in 2300 days


#3 posted 11-02-2010 03:55 PM

On my mission furniture in my house, I use Meguiars car wax. Easy on and looks nice. I have never had any problems using it. Believe it or not. However, Jamie (Alba on L/j) has a recipe of his own for furniture wax. I would as him.

-- Homer : "Oh, and how is education supposed to make me feel smarter? Besides, every time I learn something new, it pushes some old stuff out of my brain."

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Maveric777

2692 posts in 2538 days


#4 posted 11-02-2010 04:12 PM

Thanks Mads, Charlie, and Rivergirl for the feedback!

Mads – I was planing on using it as a final finish for my projects. I have grown fond of Danish oil (even though it seems to cure very slowly which takes it longer to finish work). One of my favorite finishes so far is 2 or 3 coats of Danish and one coat of wipe on polly, and then buff it out. I am confident my finishes are coming along better than before, but feel they are still lacking. I was wanting to do the wax as the final finish so (crossing fingers) there wont be to much absorption. I may even skip the wipe on polly and just go straight to wax… Hmmm?

Charlie – That was something I really wanted to hear. I considered using it for my urn I just delivered, but lack of knowledge and fear of the unknown shunned me away from it. That would of been a perfect piece to try it on seeing how it would rarely be touched. It also leads me to wonder how a keepsake box or jewelery box would hold up with use? I have read it does harden up and wonder if it would be stout enough to the light use (well, light compared to a table, chair, etc…)

Rivergirl – Now I know nothing more than what I read so I am no expert, but I did read using car wax was not recommended due to a certain ingredient (I sooo can’t remember exactly what it was) my have a reaction with the first finish. They didn’t say it wouldn’t work, but they said there was a chance. I stay out of the casinos due to I hate gambling…lol. Just for reference what did you use for the first finish on your mission furniture? Just so I know what “Does” work… Thanks for the heads up on Alba’s secret recipe. I will have to hit him up.

Thanks again yall….

-- Dan ~ Texarkana, Tx.

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rivergirl

3201 posts in 2300 days


#5 posted 11-02-2010 05:03 PM

well thanks cessna pilot. I appreciate that information. I just always liked the more expensive meguiars for the car- so I figured what the heck. LOL I am not a very scientific person – if you havent noticed that about me. :)
Mav: I use basic finishes. Minwax spar if the wood will be exposed to water of if the customer wants a high shine. Minwax poly otherwise. Sometimes just tung oil or BLO- but on the oiled finishes I have never put car wax on them? I almost always use a base of 2-3 coats of tung oil before the poly of 3+ coats. I think it gives the finish a deeper look and for me it makes the final finishing easier because the wood is all saturated with the oil I guess? But like I said I am not scientific. PS I never use stain.

-- Homer : "Oh, and how is education supposed to make me feel smarter? Besides, every time I learn something new, it pushes some old stuff out of my brain."

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Maveric777

2692 posts in 2538 days


#6 posted 11-02-2010 05:05 PM

Ohh Ok… Silicone wasn’t the chemical (or ingredient) that was mentioned, but the silicone information is most definitely good to know. I have “0” experience with this so I’m learning me something new there. lol… I don’t even wax cars so I am definitely out of the loop…lol

-- Dan ~ Texarkana, Tx.

View rivergirl's profile

rivergirl

3201 posts in 2300 days


#7 posted 11-02-2010 05:07 PM

If you want to make wax PM alba. Seriously.. he really knows the wax gig and has recipes and everything and he is just an all around great guy.

-- Homer : "Oh, and how is education supposed to make me feel smarter? Besides, every time I learn something new, it pushes some old stuff out of my brain."

View Triumph1's profile

Triumph1

861 posts in 2541 days


#8 posted 11-02-2010 05:29 PM

I use Briwax on almost 90% of the boxes and it has held up great. It is a mixture of carnauba and beeswax. The solvent in it will evaporate leaving the waxes….that solvent will take your breath away so if possible where a mask…at least have good ventilation.

I use a micro-crystalline wax (Renaissance) when an item will be handled daily. It resists fingerprints. A little goes a long way with it and that is why a small container is so much.

-- Jeff , Wisconsin Please...can I stay in the basement a little longer, please!

View Bogdanovich's profile

Bogdanovich

120 posts in 2226 days


#9 posted 11-02-2010 05:35 PM

Hi, Maverick,
I want to learn about wax and waxing (I have access to natural wax) can you give me some links to yours Internet sources?

-- My English and my woodworking are matching skills.

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Maveric777

2692 posts in 2538 days


#10 posted 11-02-2010 05:37 PM

Ahhh Jeff... Briwax was mentioned in the read last night and the smell (or fumes) was definitely brought up. The author mentioned he stayed away from waxes using carnauba simply for that reason. Other than that he gave Briwax high regards. Its funny you mention Renaissance because that was the actually what I had in mind to go with. The fingerprint resistance is very good to know…. Good stuff…

Will do Rivergirl, and thanks!

-- Dan ~ Texarkana, Tx.

View Joe Lyddon's profile

Joe Lyddon

9432 posts in 3514 days


#11 posted 11-02-2010 06:40 PM

It seems that FWW covered waxes in one of their issues several months ago…

If interested, I’ll try to find the issue#, etc.

It was pretty good…

-- Have Fun! Joe Lyddon - Alta Loma, CA USA - Home: http://www.WoodworkStuff.net ... My Small Gallery: http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/showgallery.php?ppuser=1389&cat=500"

View Maveric777's profile

Maveric777

2692 posts in 2538 days


#12 posted 11-02-2010 06:51 PM

Thanks Joe, but that was one of the many article I read last night. I believe it was named something like “The Final Finish”? Had some very good information as far as hard waxes, soft waxes, tinting waxes, etc… I highly recommend for any other “Wax Noob” like me…lol

Thanks for thinking of me Joe!

-- Dan ~ Texarkana, Tx.

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Maveric777

2692 posts in 2538 days


#13 posted 11-02-2010 07:00 PM

Good info Barry! I did read as well about waxes and uncured finishes (urethane, varnish, etc…). I really need to read it again. I know I missed a ton of info and got my wires crossed on a few things….lol.

BTW… How long does the smell last with Briwax?

-- Dan ~ Texarkana, Tx.

View Joe Lyddon's profile

Joe Lyddon

9432 posts in 3514 days


#14 posted 11-02-2010 07:14 PM

Mav, yep… that sounds like it…

-- Have Fun! Joe Lyddon - Alta Loma, CA USA - Home: http://www.WoodworkStuff.net ... My Small Gallery: http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/showgallery.php?ppuser=1389&cat=500"

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