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New planer in my shops future

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Forum topic by Sawdustmaker posted 04-17-2017 06:42 PM 1186 views 0 times favorited 22 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Sawdustmaker

295 posts in 3608 days


04-17-2017 06:42 PM

About a year ago I was gifted a truckload of extremely hard maple that came off a gym floor about 30 years ago and it had been on that gym floor for 25 years. This wood is dense, heavy, and has many coats of shellac on it. I plan on using it on the ceiling of our new house. I’ve been through 3 sets of blades on my lunchbox Dewalt D733 and now the rollers are slipping. Seeing that I’ve only gone through 1/4th of the wood, I cannot justify throwing more money at a piece of equipment that was never up to the task of cleaning up wood this hard. Grizzly has a great deal now on a G0454Z and although they are out of stock, my machine should show up about a month from now. My table saws’ Forrest WWII blade is in need of sharpening now too, so I’ll have to fall back on a lessor quality blade or throw down for another $140.00+ blade while the other one get sharpened. Has anyone had a similar experience with any tips on working on wood like this?

-- Brian, Virginia Beach


22 replies so far

View LDO2802's profile

LDO2802

115 posts in 241 days


#1 posted 04-18-2017 01:52 AM

Yes, you really have to know what your planer is good at handling. I have chipped my blades, dulled them, etc. heavy duty planing needs a heavy planer. Lol

View sawdustdad's profile

sawdustdad

289 posts in 696 days


#2 posted 04-18-2017 02:25 AM

Removing finish from gym flooring is abusive to any tool. I don’t think it’s worth the effort. Go buy new lumber. Or a helical head with carbide inserts.

-- Murphy's Carpentry Corollary #3: Half of all boards cut to a specific length will be too short.

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greenacres2

305 posts in 1979 days


#3 posted 04-18-2017 11:16 AM

I bought a fair amount of walnut T & G paneling last year, cheap and clear. As I use it, I start by shaving about 1/16” off the varnished side at the band saw, then to the DW735 (Byrd head). That’s a good price on the Grizzly, but the finish on the maple will still be abusive, and if it were me i’d probably still resaw to get rid of the shellac before planning.
earl

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EricTwice

224 posts in 344 days


#4 posted 04-18-2017 11:37 AM

The finish is hard on blades. But, it’s not just the finish. it’s the dirt and grime that is embedded in it. It is an abrasive and will grind the edge off of any blade, no matter how good your blade is. I’d put an old belt on the thickness sander and clean it off before I plane it.

Gym floor is usually #1 rock maple. It will move. Be sure to allow for it, like you would on a floor.

It will be worth it when it is complete. please post pic’s

-- nice recovery, They should pay extra for that mistake, Eric E.

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Craftsman on the lake

2704 posts in 3248 days


#5 posted 04-18-2017 11:45 AM

I don’t know about the flooring you got that was 30 yrs old but most new flooring has aluminized finish on it. Fairly durable and I’d imagine hard on planers. I always buy a new, fairly inexpensive blade for my chop saw when I do a floor. By the end it’s pretty dull.

-- The smell of wood, coffee in the cup, the wife let's me do my thing, the lake is peaceful.

View Tennessee's profile

Tennessee

2544 posts in 2325 days


#6 posted 04-18-2017 12:20 PM

I think I’d try an aggressive paint stripper as a possible solution. Shellac responds pretty well to a methylene chloride based stripper. Just put it on, be patient, and run a good sharp scraper down to remove almost all of it in one swipe. Should take up most of the imbedded grit also, since you should go down to bare wood. One quick run through your planer after drying with a light hit of the blades and it should be done.

(Hint – as a bonus, you might try taking what comes off and smearing it on the next board, the stripper is still there and will work, albeit slower, up to three-four times.)
I say this since I used to run a professional refinishing shop, and we stripped about everything you can imagine. Straight flat boards strip like a dream, and it is not as expensive as you might think.
I would think you are not using it all at once, so you only strip what you need for your current project. Outside…

-- Tsunami Guitars and Custom Woodworking, Cleveland, TN

View JayCee123's profile

JayCee123

196 posts in 575 days


#7 posted 04-18-2017 12:45 PM

+++ Craftsman on the Lake
The newer floor finishes have minerals such as aluminum to enhance its protection. How about using the underside? That side may not have received the same finishing products on its face as the top side. Especially since it was laid down so long ago. Maybe Leave the top “as is” and plane or sand the bottom, and that becomes your show face.

View builtinbkyn's profile

builtinbkyn

1867 posts in 751 days


#8 posted 04-18-2017 01:10 PM

Hand belt sander and 60 grit paper before planing. Heck, you could lay a bunch of boards out on the floor and use a walk-behing pad sander before planing.

-- Bill, Yo!......in Brooklyn & Steel City :)

View Sawdustmaker's profile

Sawdustmaker

295 posts in 3608 days


#9 posted 05-02-2017 03:55 PM

I like the idea of a walk behind sander. I’d go broke trying to strip all of it. I brought it back in a 24 foot rental box truck and had every layer lined up in the tongue and groove stacked eleven layers deep so you can imagine the amount of board feet I have to contend with. As to the age of the wood, I know that it was the mid eighties when the wood came off the floor and the building was 25 years old.

-- Brian, Virginia Beach

View Carloz's profile

Carloz

858 posts in 402 days


#10 posted 05-02-2017 04:32 PM

3 sets of blades for DW733 about $20 each set is $60. You processed 1/4 of the wood so you need to multiply it by 4 = $240.
The planer you are referring to is $2000. Easy math.
And please note that feeding finished wood into the Grizzly planer will wear it fast too and I am not sure that carbide inserts for it will cost you as little as $20.

View tomsteve's profile

tomsteve

634 posts in 1030 days


#11 posted 05-02-2017 06:24 PM

seems it would be wise to be looking at a drum sander for the task

View pintodeluxe's profile

pintodeluxe

5421 posts in 2624 days


#12 posted 05-02-2017 06:46 PM

Portable planer knives do tend to dull quickly. I upgraded a 735 with a helical cutterhead, and it handles all the white oak and maple I can throw at it. Carbide knives won’t even blink planing finished hardwoods.

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

View Sawdustmaker's profile

Sawdustmaker

295 posts in 3608 days


#13 posted 05-03-2017 12:28 PM

Carloz, The last two sets of blades were upgraded higher carbon steel that ran me $47.00 and after looking at the remainder of the stack that still needs to be processed, I doubt if I’ve done 1/6th of it. I talked with two cabinet makers that said the DW733 was never made to handle that much wood and that hard of wood. There is a reason wood workers call them “lunch box” planers.

-- Brian, Virginia Beach

View ArtMann's profile

ArtMann

645 posts in 627 days


#14 posted 05-03-2017 03:47 PM

I kept my Ridgid lunchbox planer for over 10 years and am willing to bet it saw as much or more lumber over that time period than what you are planning to mill. I use a lot of white oak, which is pretty hard also. I probably went through 5 sets of knives in that time period. As already mentioned, your problem is the flooring finish. You are going to want to cut this stuff off with some kind of carbide cutters. The carbide inserts on the G0454Z will probably have to be rotated the first time after the job is over but I would say it is still worth it. The idea of resawing that someone else mentioned has some merit but that is a lot of resawing if done by hand. The idea of flipping the boards over is pretty clever too if you can get away with it.

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Sawdustmaker

295 posts in 3608 days


#15 posted 05-07-2017 03:09 AM

I just got a call from UPS shipping and they told me they had a planer to deliver. I’m thinking great, that’s faster than they had said it would be here due to back orders. I just got the shipping email from Grizzly and it’s for a W1754SW Shop Fox. WTF, I looked online and Grizzly doesn’t even have them listed. I found info about it just doing a web search. Has this ever happened to anyone? It looks like the same machine, but it’s not what I ordered.

-- Brian, Virginia Beach

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