Table saw rust

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Forum topic by Timthemailman posted 11-01-2010 06:46 PM 4522 views 1 time favorited 17 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View Timthemailman's profile


326 posts in 2745 days

11-01-2010 06:46 PM

Topic tags/keywords: table saw table saw rust rust rust removal table saw care tip evapo-rust

My table has some rust that I cant get rid of with WD40 and a scotch bright pad, my thought is to use a paint brush and put some EVAPO-RUST rust remover on the table , then lay down some paper towels on top. Then put a little more Evapo-Rust on top of the paper towel , and then tape a trash bag on top of that and leave it over night. Does anyone have any thoughts on that. Thanks for your help. Tim the mail man

17 replies so far

View traupmann's profile


124 posts in 2756 days

#1 posted 11-01-2010 06:55 PM

I have used Rust Free from PMS Products Holland MI to great success. The worst is on my never used scroll saw, that I’ve reconditioned twice using Rust Free.

-- chas -- looking for Serta sponsorship to go Pro...

View brianinpa's profile


1812 posts in 3691 days

#2 posted 11-01-2010 07:02 PM

I use WD-40 and wet/dry sand paper. Start with 120 grit and work my way up to 600 grit with no problems, unless it is too deeply rusted.

-- Brian, Lebanon PA, If you aren’t having fun doing it, find something else to do.

View mrg's profile (online now)


820 posts in 2968 days

#3 posted 11-01-2010 07:07 PM

Evapo rust works, so does Navel Jelly

-- mrg

View NathanAllen's profile


376 posts in 3113 days

#4 posted 11-01-2010 09:59 PM

Maybe try using a sander over the Scotch Brite pad. Apply WD-40, wait a minute, hit it with the sander and wipe up.

View MedicKen's profile


1612 posts in 3431 days

#5 posted 11-01-2010 10:12 PM

Is the rust light? If just surface rust I would use WD40 and the scotchbright pad. You might consider putting the pad under an old random orbit sander if you have one. If not maybe a trip to the local thrift store and pick up an old beater to use for this. I have used evapo-rust and am not happy with it. If I need to remove rust its electrolysis for me. But that is a little more involved and requires complete submersion of the part.

-- My job is to give my kids things to discuss with their

View lilredweldingrod's profile


2496 posts in 3075 days

#6 posted 11-01-2010 11:33 PM

All of these rust removers have acid in them. If you leave it on to long, you will have a lot of pitting. I have used straight swimming pool acid on steel and cast iron, but you need to neutralize it with baking soda and rinse with clean water and then use WD-40 to disperse the water. Then you need to protect the iron immediately to prevent more and worse rust.
I like to use motor oil first and after I wipe down the oil, clean with thinner, dry and wax 4-5 layers with paste wax.

View Steven H's profile

Steven H

1117 posts in 3029 days

#7 posted 11-02-2010 04:06 AM

It depends how much rust is on the table. Your way of doing would work for medium rust. If it’s heavy some grinding need to be done.

Be careful with Naval Jelly if you leave it on too long, it will create white haze. It will be hard to remove if it penetrate in iron.

View Timthemailman's profile


326 posts in 2745 days

#8 posted 11-02-2010 06:24 AM

This is a pic of what the rust looks like that I cant remove. Thanks for the help

View newbiewoodworker's profile


668 posts in 2796 days

#9 posted 11-02-2010 06:32 AM

I am pretty sure that last image is pitting… exactly how long did it take to develope this? I thought my bansaw was bad, with rust in some of the corners, in the mill marks… yikes…

I used WD-40 and SOS.. It worked so-so… I then used a wire brush, it worked a tad better.. I then tried a WB on the angle grinder… hell no, left me with a few scratches.. thats it… I then went to a fine sandpaper, 400 or so, and got most of it off…

After you do this, be sure to apply a PASTE WAX… I had to do it twice, since I originally used Canubis wax… which contains water.. I put my hand down, and the result was a rust covered palm…

-- "Ah, So your not really a newbie, but a I betterbie."

View 1yeldud1's profile


301 posts in 3011 days

#10 posted 11-02-2010 11:37 AM

If the condition bother you so much, you can take the saw table top to a machine shop that has a “blanchard” grinder. I shouldnt take too much time or money to dust a few thousands off the tables top surface to make the pitting go away !!!!!!

View Timthemailman's profile


326 posts in 2745 days

#11 posted 11-03-2010 08:53 AM

Thanks for all your help , I did a little of everything , WD 40 Scotch Pad , EVAPO-RUST and paper towels ( would not do that again). Then sand paper 220, 320 400, 600 with a old craftsman sander. With a coat of T-9.

This was the worst spot.

Thank you again Tim

View TopamaxSurvivor's profile


18249 posts in 3644 days

#12 posted 11-03-2010 10:48 AM

EVAPO-RUST and paper towels ( would not do that again) What was the porblem? Paper towels not tough enuf? or the EVAPO-RUST cause trouble?

-- Bob in WW ~ "some old things are lovely, warm still with life ... of the forgotten men who made them." - D.H. Lawrence

View Timthemailman's profile


326 posts in 2745 days

#13 posted 11-03-2010 06:54 PM

The paper towels have a pattern on them and it etched the pattern on the table saw top, also where the paper towels didn’t touch the metal is a deferent color. If you look at the 1st after picture you can see what I mean ( it’s not the end of the world ) . So if I had it to do over, I would just use WD 40 and scotch pad, and wet and dry sand paper ( used the sand paper dry with electric sander ). Over all I am happy , it is very smooth and wont effect my work. thanks again Tim

View Dan's profile


3630 posts in 2849 days

#14 posted 11-03-2010 07:12 PM

I bought a used cast iron top TS earlier this year and had to restore the top. I did it all by hand with many many sheets of emery sand paper. TONS of elbow grease but I now have a nice new looking top… No matter what method you use to get rid of rust like this there is no avoiding some time and hard work. Looks like you did a great job on your TS top!

-- Dan - "Collector of Hand Planes"

View HokieMojo's profile


2104 posts in 3697 days

#15 posted 11-03-2010 08:47 PM

that does look very good. as long as you get it gone, so it doesn’t spread, that is all that matters i think.

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