Table saw fence

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Forum topic by ToddSchu posted 11-01-2010 06:18 PM 5861 views 1 time favorited 19 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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7 posts in 2858 days

11-01-2010 06:18 PM

Topic tags/keywords: question tablesaw tip jig

Hello all. I am new to woodworking, and have been starting a small home workshop. I was given a Ryobi 10” table saw not to long ago. I has been fine for some stuff, but now I would like to do a bit more precise cuts. The fence on the saw is sketchy to say the least as I’m sure you know. I have been looking around the internet for some way of making a better fence. Can anybody suggest a plan or design that I can make? I can’t spent a lot of cash. At some point I will get a better saw. For now though..I would be happy to hear any Idea you might have.

Thank you

-- All things are difficult before they are easy. Thomas Fuller

19 replies so far

View NBeener's profile


4816 posts in 3201 days

#1 posted 11-01-2010 06:21 PM

Are you open to buying one ?

Names like Biesemeyer, Vega, and Mule Accusquare are pretty well regarded, in the industry.

-- -- Neil

View Camper's profile


232 posts in 2883 days

#2 posted 11-01-2010 08:43 PM

I would suggest keeping an eye on craig’s list or a used saw with a decent fence. You may get lucky and get one in the 100-200 range which can actually be tuned up. I am not sure that you can even tune up the ryobi you have. Also what type of inaccuracies are you having to deal with?

-- Tampa-FL

View RexMcKinnon's profile


2593 posts in 3222 days

#3 posted 11-01-2010 09:12 PM

Your owners manual will give you the specifics about your model saw. If you don’t have it go to the Ryobi website. It should be adjustable but it won’t be like any of the high end models. My old Mastercraft, which it about a Ryobi equivenant, had 2 screws on top of the fence. You would have to losen those screws. True up the fence with the mitre slot, lock the fence down and then tighten the screws. Cheap fences are often like this. Also attach a piece of mdf as an aux fence. There should be holes or somehting in the fence to allow this.

-- If all you have is a hammer, everything looks like a nail!

View rance's profile


4258 posts in 3188 days

#4 posted 11-01-2010 09:14 PM

If you really want to BUILD one, then you could downsize this one:

And I agree with knowtscott (below), you might be better off changing saws rather than adding lipstick.

-- Backer boards, stop blocks, build oversized, and never buy a hand plane--

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8057 posts in 3403 days

#5 posted 11-01-2010 09:25 PM

An aux fence can make some user improvements, but likely won’t improve the accuracy a lot.

I’d be inclined to start saving for a saw upgrade as opposed to adding a new fence to this saw. You may have trouble retrofitting an aftermarket fence on a saw of the size and type of the Ryobi. Even if you’re successful, you’ll still be faced with the limitations of the universal motor, small table area, light weight, and drawbacks of the direct drive if that’s what it has. Not wishing to offend the saw, but it is what it is, and I see the situaion as sort like the lipstick on a pig scenario, or racing tires on a Pinto.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View PaulJerome's profile


57 posts in 3060 days

#6 posted 11-01-2010 09:50 PM

I just put a new T2 on my Ridgid R4511. Price was right and it is fantastic.

-- Paul, Central Illinois

View ToddSchu's profile


7 posts in 2858 days

#7 posted 11-02-2010 12:35 AM

Thank you all for your great advice. @Camper and knotscott I agree I’m working on a little
fund for a better saw maybe from craigslist. The fence on there now is hit or miss at best.
I wanted to cut thin strips to use in a bending project, but the keep binding against the fence
even though I try my best to make it parallel to the blade. I’m sure the Saw is not offended. As for the

-- All things are difficult before they are easy. Thomas Fuller

View Viktor's profile


466 posts in 3446 days

#8 posted 11-02-2010 12:58 AM

For a small saw you could use 1”x1” and 1”x3” extrusions.

View Camper's profile


232 posts in 2883 days

#9 posted 11-02-2010 01:41 AM

this does not have much to do with your question but what exactly is binding on the fence? If I understand when you say “they” you mean the thin strips…?

Maybe you already know but I think when you are cutting thin strips, the stock should be between the blade and the fence and the strips should be on the other side of the blade. If you Google “thin strip jig table saw” you will get an idea of what I mean…again someone with more experience may chime in but cutting thin strips with the strips between the blade and the fence may be slightly dangerous.

I am fairly new like you and have used a craftsman contractor saw that I bought for about $100 a few years back on CL. Its nothing to write home about but it cuts wood and fairly accurately after some tune up and careful set-ups…I think the blade also matters..I do not have $100+ blade but something decent…

-- Tampa-FL

View ToddSchu's profile


7 posts in 2858 days

#10 posted 11-02-2010 05:14 AM

Wow thanks Camper! I had seen a video and he was cutting the strip on the fence side. I just went back
and realized he was using a band saw, not a table saw. I did use push sticks though. I will try the correct way tomorrow. Would it do any good to attach a piece of formica to the fence? Would it help the stock slide better?

@ Viktor.. Thank you for the link! Wow there is a bunch of info. I’m going to read and research. I’ll prob construct it for my next saw.


-- All things are difficult before they are easy. Thomas Fuller

View Camper's profile


232 posts in 2883 days

#11 posted 11-02-2010 12:24 PM

without knowing your set up, its hard to say if the formica will help or not but it definitely cannot hurt I guess. I never really had a problem with things not sliding against the fence. Just make sure you are out of the way of a potential kickback and are using push sticks.

-- Tampa-FL

View ToddSchu's profile


7 posts in 2858 days

#12 posted 11-03-2010 01:23 AM

I think I’m being to critical. I made some cuts this morning before work and it was fine. A lot better cutting on the correct side too.

-- All things are difficult before they are easy. Thomas Fuller

View Teenangel's profile


-38 posts in 3141 days

#13 posted 12-29-2010 07:23 PM

Got to agree with Viktor, I built the one described on the Hutch blog: it can be scaled up or down to fit practically any saw. I don’t know about using smaller material for the rails, I think that might allow them to flex some. You could use a smaller piece for the fence itself, but it needs to be 3 inches wide in order to line up with the holes in the bearings. But it could be only 1-1/2” tall. This would mean that any auxiliary fence would have to stick up quite a ways above the support material. But I am convinced it would work.

Camper, you might want to go to the ””In-line Industries website and look at their alignment system for the blade on your old Craftsman. They also have a set of machined pulleys and link belt which will help it run quietly and more smoothly than the standard cast pulleys and V-belt. AND you might want to look at the Hutch blog, too. I put that fence on my Craftsman and finally I was able to be certain that I could actually rely on the fence to stay parallel to the blade for more than the time it took to flip the switch to “ON”.

-- I measured twice and cut twice and it was STILL too damned short! - Teenangel

View Loren's profile (online now)


10476 posts in 3675 days

#14 posted 12-29-2010 11:28 PM

You can rip thin stock in between the fence and blade, but it will
often “kick” back on you after the cut is done. It actually just kind
of slides back at you and isn’t a problem if your body isn’t in the way.

You can get pretty consistent rips using this method. It may not be
the safest by the book, but if the offcut is longish and not heavy,
it won’t become an airborne projective and it will slide back gently.
Do use hold-downs or featherboards where you can when doing this
type of setup.

The trick is to have the fence slightly out of parallel with the blade so
the cut opens up at the back. Set the fence out of parallel to the
miter gage slot about 1/32 to 1/64. Don’t try to rip from both sides
of the blade with this setup as the cut will bind with the fence on the
left (I’m assuming most of your ripping is done with the fence to the

Also (and I’ve found this quiet safe), you can make a short auxiliary
fence that ends at the back of the blade. I Europe this is required
by law I believe. In N. America, we have these long fences that make
sizing panels convenient but make ripping a bit dangerous due to their
long length. The short fence reduces burning as well. Make a push
block for the one cut and just run it over the blade. Your blade guard
is really in the way for this type of cut, so I’d remove it rather than try
to fight with it.

View ToddSchu's profile


7 posts in 2858 days

#15 posted 12-30-2010 12:17 AM

Wow First let me just say thank you to all of you. I will try to ingest all this good information. I am so glad that this site is here to help. Thank you!

-- All things are difficult before they are easy. Thomas Fuller

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