New blade for my SawStop

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Forum topic by DrAllred posted 11-01-2010 06:11 AM 7498 views 0 times favorited 9 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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137 posts in 2241 days

11-01-2010 06:11 AM

Topic tags/keywords: tablesaw saw blade

OK, it is about time to retire the blade that came with the machine. I would like to know what is the best for the money 10” table saw blade out there? I will be ripping and crosscutting.

I have read many reviews in magazines and online and they all have their own opinion.


-- David, Mesa Arizona

9 replies so far

View knotscott's profile


7145 posts in 2793 days

#1 posted 11-01-2010 11:10 AM

“Best” is a very subjective word that’s different for each of us. It really depends on what you do and what you expect from the blade. For my purposes, I think a good 40T or 50T for general work, and a good Hi-ATB plywood blade provide what I need with a 3hp saw. If your saw is < 3hp, I’d consider adding a thin kerf 24T bulk ripper too.

Tips for picking a saw blade

The cleanest cutting general purpose blade I’ve used is the Infinity Super General 010-044, but the Ridge Carbide TS2000, Forrest WWII 40T, Tenryu Gold medal, and DeWalt DW7657 are also excellent. I’m also a fan of the WWII 30T blade….it cuts nearly as cleanly as the 40T version but is much more efficient in thick ripping (available in full or thin kerf). Several of the 50T combo blades do a very good job too…Infinity 010-050 Combomax (010-150 thin kerf), DeWalt DW7640, Freud LU84, Tenryu RS25550 are some of the better examples I’ve tried.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View rance's profile


4243 posts in 2578 days

#2 posted 11-01-2010 12:49 PM

Have you considered owning and using more than one blade for your saw? Seems that most hobbiest just use one. If you plan on doing a whole bunch of ripping, then consider getting a decent Rip blade. Have you ever had that first one sharpened? Just asking. :)

I’ve come to the conclusion that most of the reputable blades will do well for you as long as you keep them sharp and clean, and have your TS adjusted properly.

-- Backer boards, stop blocks, build oversized, and never buy a hand plane--

View crank49's profile


3979 posts in 2388 days

#3 posted 11-01-2010 01:31 PM

I like the Ridgid 50 tooth combination blade sold at Home Depot for my 10” table saw, 1 3/4hp. It’s the gold colored blade, item # R1050C. I have never had a combo blade cut so smooth and effortlessly. It’s scary how quiet this thing is; and when I make multiple passes to create a rabbit or dado, the bottom of the cut is smoother than my dado blade can make it.

-- Michael: Hillary has a long list of accomplishments, though most DAs would refer to them as felonies.

View Edziu's profile


150 posts in 2468 days

#4 posted 11-01-2010 03:06 PM

+1 for rance- sharpening a saw blade can be a very cost-effective way to deal with dull blades. Most saw blades have about 4 or 5 sharpenings in them.

+1 for Scott as well, two blades is the proper way to go. For me, I am currently running (and VERY pleased with) a Freud diablo 10” ripping blade, 24 tooth I think. For crosscuts, I am way too impressed with my Irwin, 80-tooth 10” thin kerf blade; glass-smooth crosscuts. Those blades together shouldn’t break the bank at $100 or less for the pair.

If you only want one blade, and I can understand, it keeps things simple; look into the Freud fusion blades. Is your saw 1 3/4HP or less, buy the thin kerf. Over 1 3/4HP? buy the full kerf.

View DrAllred's profile


137 posts in 2241 days

#5 posted 11-01-2010 07:36 PM

Thanks for the info, tonight I will have to look into the blades mentioned.

The saw is the SawStop Contractors saw, 1 3/4 HP, I have thought about changing the blade when I do cross cuts or ripping, but that would be time consuming as I make both cuts one after the other. Right now I am looking at is the WWII 40T blade.

-- David, Mesa Arizona

View knotscott's profile


7145 posts in 2793 days

#6 posted 11-01-2010 09:05 PM

The WWII 40T is an excellent example of a general purpose blade that will do a good to very good job of most tasks, but is on the expensive side. Where blades like this fall short is in the extremes of thick ripping and fine crosscuts/ply. Once you get close to 1-3/4” thicknesses, 40 teeth tends to be too many for the application, creating more resistance, excess heat, more burning, and added strain to the motor. Also, while the better ATB general purpose and ATB/R combo blades like the WWII 40T tend to give good crosscuts and cuts in ply, they’re more prone to tearout than a higher tooth count blade and/or a blade with a Hi-ATB grind. Blades like the Infinity Super General and Freud Fusion are 40T blades with a Hi-ATB grind and dual side grind….they offer excellent ply and fine crosscut performance, and extremely polished edges on rips, but they’re not as efficient at thick ripping as the standard 40T ATB blade. There’s always the trade off, but ultimately whatever works for you is the best choice.

If you don’t want to change blades often, but want to extend the “sweet spot” of your blades, I’d suggest a modified approach to a two blade set….a 30T WWII combined with a 60T blade like the Forrest WWI, Infinity 010-060 Hi-ATB, Freud LU88, or Freud-made Ridgid R1060C will all handle general work in most common thicknesses so you don’t need to choose a specific blade until you approach a cut in one of the extreme regions…choose the 30T for thicker materials, and the 60T for finer cuts and ply….leave either one in place for most cuts. The WWI and 010-060 Hi-ATB blades offer outstanding ply and fine crosscut, and very clean rips to ~ 5/4”...the LU88 and R0160C will give clean rips to closer to 6/4”, but aren’t quite as excellent in the finer regions. You’ll have excellent coverage over a wider range, and will get longer edge life from the set of blades than a single blade.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View MedicKen's profile


1610 posts in 2880 days

#7 posted 11-01-2010 09:41 PM

I think there will be a lot of recommendations for the Forrest WWII. I have one but it mostly hangs in the blade cabinet now. It has been replaced by a Freud Fusion P410. I get cleaner crosscuts in plywood, soft wood and hardwood with the Freud than the Forrest. I change blades when ripping, Freud glue line rip, 30T. Don’t get me wrong, the Forrest is an awesome blade but my opinion is the Freud is a little better. The pricing is almost the saem for the 2. However, I did get lucky and found the Freud on ebay for $59, a price too good to pass up. My review of the Freud is here

-- My job is to give my kids things to discuss with their

View Gofor's profile


470 posts in 3204 days

#8 posted 11-02-2010 04:29 AM

For all around work, Freud 50t combo blades (thin kerf TK906) and full kerf (LU84R011) both do well for me and are affordable. They last well (I do a lot of work with white oak). Neither give me what I would consider a glue-line cut for book matching panels, so I dress up panel glue-up edges with hand planes. I think both do fine for a structurally sound glue-up, but I find planing to a light-tight match produces a superior looking edge joint. They do fine for cross cut glue-ups and things like tenon shoulders, etc.

I usually go with a 60t for fine cross-cutting. I have had very good results (IMHO) from both Freud and Delta. The 60t also give a smooth rip edge but are prone to burning (depending on wood species).

Caveat: I am working with a 1 1/2 hp saw, not in the saw-stop quality, so consider that.

I personally was not impressed with the Freud 30t “Glue Line” rip (LM74M010), but I was using it on 2” thick wood, and found out that Freud does not recommend it for wood over 1” (That from a Freud distributor). I will retry it on thinner wood, but have not done so to date.


-- Go

View PCTNWV's profile


99 posts in 2222 days

#9 posted 11-02-2010 05:01 AM

I have the same saw and use the 40T WoodWorker II (I have both a standard and a Thin kerf version – use a stabilizer w/ both). I find the both work equally as well. I have used it to cut wood up to 2 inches thick and have not had any issue. I have used other blades and my second choice for a general purpose blade is a Freud 50 or 60 tooth. I have been using the WW II for over a year now and am extremely pleased. I have also used Forrest to check and sharpen one of the WW II blades after firing the brake on the saw. Blade was found to be in good shape and only needed a sharpening. I called them and will have to say that their customer service was excellent.

-- Troy, Virginia

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