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Craftsman 7" molding head on a 12" table saw?

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Forum topic by dcwoodwerker posted 04-14-2017 11:56 PM 482 views 0 times favorited 6 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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dcwoodwerker

5 posts in 249 days


04-14-2017 11:56 PM

Topic tags/keywords: jig question

I was wondering if anyone knows of using a 7 inch molding head on a 12 inch saw? I found one that I would like to get but I’m not sure if it will work on my saw? Any advice would be greatly appreciated


6 replies so far

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MrUnix

6021 posts in 2039 days


#1 posted 04-15-2017 12:05 AM

Depends on the size of your arbor… most 10” saws have a 5/8” arbor… the 7” moulding heads typically fit on a 5/8” or sometimes even a 3/4” arbor. I don’t remember seeing a 12” saw that had anything smaller than 1” (eg: The PM72 has a 1-1/8” arbor), so it would not fit. What saw do you have, and what size is the arbor?


Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

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dcwoodwerker

5 posts in 249 days


#2 posted 04-15-2017 03:24 AM

Thanks for the reply, I have a 12” Craftsman table saw, model number 113.299130 and it does in fact have a ⅝” arbor on it

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MrUnix

6021 posts in 2039 days


#3 posted 04-15-2017 03:42 AM

Thanks for the reply, I have a 12” Craftsman table saw, model number 113.299130 and it does in fact have a ⅝” arbor on it
- dcwoodwerker

Well there you go :)

Actually, the manual for that saw lists the 9-3214 moulding head as an accessory… which is what is shown in my first picture above (I got mine as part of a c-man RAS purchase). It should work just fine.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

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runswithscissors

2565 posts in 1865 days


#4 posted 04-15-2017 04:32 AM

I’ve had the single cutter (vs. 3) version of that for years, but haven’t used it for a long time. They actually do work, but you need to finish up with quite a bit of sanding to make decent moldings. One thing I noticed is that Sears’ grinding of the cutters is a joke. No fine honing whatsoever. They definitely must be sharpened to work well. An advantage is that being ordinary tool steel, you can grind your own profiles and use them in combinations. Not that hard to do.

I was abl to make some fairly elaborate 5 1/2” wide window trim for an old house that required 5 passes per piece, as I recall. So they also call for patience. Also, I highly recommend you make a sort of “tunnel” for the work to pass through. Keeps the work from bouncing up and down with all that hammering of the cutters going on, plus controls and side to side movement. Also felt much safer that way. They create a lot of chips, too.

-- I admit to being an adrenaline junky; fortunately, I'm very easily frightened

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EEngineer

1089 posts in 3454 days


#5 posted 04-16-2017 01:12 AM

I highly recommend you make a sort of “tunnel” for the work to pass through.

Me too! This tool always scared the hell outa me! I recommend a featherboard from the top to hold the work tight against the table and a featherboard from the side to hold the work tight against the fence. When you work with this, feed from far away and have someone catch and pull far away on the other side.

but you need to finish up with quite a bit of sanding to make decent moldings.

Bullcrap! If you set it up as above, finished parts require little to no sanding. Finish is smooth as a baby’s butt. And that’s with the single cutter version. Like runswithscisasors I used mine to duplicate trim, with multiple passes, in my 1927 house and never did any more than finish sanding to remove fuzz at the join lines.

This is a great tool, but it scares the hell outa me. Use every amount of jigging to insure that the workpiece will not get away from you. If you do, the results will be well worth the extra time spent setting up jigs to use it!

-- "Find out what you cannot do and then go do it!"

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GR8HUNTER

2970 posts in 553 days


#6 posted 04-16-2017 03:02 AM

I have a set like this ….although my saw is 10inch …..GOOD LUCK :<))

-- Tony Reinholds,Pa. REMEMBER TO ALWAYS HAVE FUN

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