What is an acceptable thickness variation for bandsawn resaws?

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Forum topic by stefang posted 10-29-2010 08:05 PM 1632 views 0 times favorited 19 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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15881 posts in 3298 days

10-29-2010 08:05 PM

I haven’t done a lot of resawing in the past, but with my new bandsaw I am now doing some and planning a lot more. Today I resawed some pieces and then I measured the thickness along both edges. I then calculated the difference between the thickest measurement and the thinnest measurement, which was 0.016 of inch. Common sense tells me that this is a negligible difference and that the difference should disappear when I plane the cut side, but I really don’t know for sure. Can anyone tell me what difference is acceptable straight off the bandsaw?

-- Mike, an American living in Norway.

19 replies so far

View a1Jim's profile


117061 posts in 3541 days

#1 posted 10-29-2010 08:22 PM

I would say that’s pretty darn close . Just varying the pressure as you send through the band saw could give you more than that. I doubt anyone without very sophisticated equipment can do better.

-- wood crafting & woodworking classes

View stefang's profile


15881 posts in 3298 days

#2 posted 10-29-2010 09:03 PM

Thanks Jim. Now I know there are no issues to address before resawing. Today I jointed and planed all the Mahogany I bought yesterday. I plan to resaw it to a little under 1/2” for the boxes and some other stuff I will be making. The Sycamore I bought was quite a disappointment because a little jointing showed a lot of worm holes and therefore useless for my purposes. I’ll have to see if the seller will let me exchange it for something else. I will probably be resawing the piece of ash tomorrow after jointing and planing.

My son is having some Sycamore trees cut down at his place soon and he has promised me the logs from it. I plan to make a bandsaw jig to use when I slice them up. I’ve seen some nice ones here on LJ which I will probably copy. I won’t be able to use that wood until next Fall.

-- Mike, an American living in Norway.

View mafe's profile


11643 posts in 3053 days

#3 posted 10-30-2010 01:16 AM

Sounds wonderful Mike!
Nothing like the smell of fresh cut wood.
Here is my go on the sled:
Best thoughts,

-- MAD F, the fanatical rhykenologist and vintage architect. Democraticwoodworking.

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13600 posts in 3305 days

#4 posted 10-30-2010 08:00 AM

sounds like you are strumming along well
glad you got that worked out

and still playing with sleds too !

-- david - only thru kindness can this world be whole . If we don't succeed we run the risk of failure. Dan Quayle

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15881 posts in 3298 days

#5 posted 10-30-2010 11:02 AM

Thanks Mads, I will stick this into my favorites. It will probably be after Christmas before I actually build it.

David If you remember, I mentioned to you that I had an issue about the top and bottom wheels not being coplaner on my new BS. I finally got the lower axle adjusted properly and all is well now. I have hardly been in the shop at this last couple of months, so it was good to begin working again yesterday. Today, I plan to resaw the Mahogany and Ash. It is quite a pleasurable difference working with the new BS compared to my little Delta. It sounds like you have tuned up most of Rands equipment. Good work my friend! You need to have a business card printed that says ‘have in depth skills, will travel’, LOL.

-- Mike, an American living in Norway.

View woodgu's profile


63 posts in 2738 days

#6 posted 10-30-2010 03:19 PM

I have a bandsaw and have used it quite a bit; however, I have never done any resawing. Everyone on here seems to have some experience and skill at this. What is the best size and type of blade should I use for resawing? My BS will support up to 1 1/4”, but I don’t know if this is necessary? In looking at the many TPIs and tooth types, I feel like a mosquito over a nudist colony.

Any tips?

-- Phil G

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Jim Bertelson

4170 posts in 3128 days

#7 posted 10-30-2010 05:02 PM

Being a little compulsive at times I measure a lot of things with digital calipers. I have found that no matter what I do, I am pretty lucky to get things to 0.01….....

Put it another way, I can’t even consistently measure, with anything, within 0.005. Meaning on wood and wood products. Metal would be a different deal, I suspect. You can dent a lot of wood products while trying to measure it nearly that much.

You are cutting within about 1/64. When you run it through the planer, it will become even. Sounds like you are good to go, from a “what is significant” standpoint. I am sure in big production plants they can get closer, as a1Jim implies, but I don’t think we can get any more even than that. Rip a long narrow board with your TS and then measure it with calipers along its length. Bet you find some variation.

-- Jim, Anchorage Alaska

View stefang's profile


15881 posts in 3298 days

#8 posted 10-30-2010 06:36 PM

Phil Generally speaking the wider the blade, the more stable the cut. I have a smaller bandsaw for tight curves, but I still want my big saw to be able to cut at least a larger curve where the bigger table capacity can still be used to advantage. I therefore, surely like many others compromise when selecting a resaw blade. I chose a 5/8” blade for my new saw and this is working very well. I’m doing a little blog just to share my first big resaw experience and you can see the results there.

Jim So true, I wasn’t really worried about it, but I wanted an idea of what to shoot for. You know, shoot for the moon and hit the fence post rather than shooting for the fence post and hitting the ground.

-- Mike, an American living in Norway.

View patron's profile


13600 posts in 3305 days

#9 posted 10-30-2010 07:20 PM

good idea mike
about the card

have to say

‘send more money ,
i’m broke again ‘

then will travel !

-- david - only thru kindness can this world be whole . If we don't succeed we run the risk of failure. Dan Quayle

View Roz's profile


1699 posts in 3750 days

#10 posted 11-07-2010 06:25 PM

I just scanned an article in a Woodworker Mag while sitting in the Doctor’s office that suggested for resawing make an end cut on the table saw first at both ends. I think this helps reduce the blades movement side to side while performing the resawing operation. This helps when resawing on smaller saws like mine.

Sounds like you have it dialed in to me Stefang.

-- Terry Roswell, L.A. (Lower Alabama) "Life is what happens to you when you are making other plans."

View DonH's profile


495 posts in 2781 days

#11 posted 11-07-2010 06:37 PM

I have used a variety of blades for resawing and find the Woodslicer from Highland and the Laguna Resaw Master the best. The Laguna blade leaves a surface ready to glue with no noticeable variation in thickness but it is expensive. Both cut wood like it was butter.

-- DonH Orleans Ontario

View NBeener's profile


4816 posts in 3138 days

#12 posted 11-07-2010 06:51 PM

Roz wrote:

”I just scanned an article in a Woodworker Mag while sitting in the Doctor’s office”

I think I like your doctor !

I’m no expert on resawing, but … I try to remember that the band saw is only the FIRST stop for the resawn wood.

It’s either going to the planer or my drum sander (or hand tools), afterward.

Close enough seems close enough. It’s a pretty individual choice whether or not you want to chase thousandths, but … I have the feeling that … if your saw is well set up, and your technique is good … those last few thou are going to be awfully hard to get :-)

Sounds like you’re having fun with hit, Mike :-)

-- -- Neil

View Bearpie's profile


2601 posts in 2982 days

#13 posted 11-07-2010 11:30 PM

Mike, one thing you might want to do when your son cuts the Sycamore down is to peel the bark off after it is down. That is where all the bugs and grubs get their start and then bore into the wood. Another thing is to keep it off the ground as other kinds of bugs get to the wood that way. Good luck!

Erwin, Jacksonville, FL

-- Erwin, Jacksonville, FL

View Gofor's profile


470 posts in 3751 days

#14 posted 11-08-2010 01:02 AM

Woodgu (Phil):

Rule of thumb is that you want 3 teeth in the board at all times. This becomes moot pretty quick for resawing as 3tpi is about as low as you can practically go. For dedicated resawing boards over 2” wide, you want about 3 tpi and as wide a blade as your safe will tension well. My little 14” , although rated for a 3/4” blade, will only really tension a 1/2” well, so I use a 1/2” x 3 or 4 tpi blade. I can resaw up to 12” hardwood with it, but my cuts seldom end up within the tolerance that stefang stated. I also found that reducing the blade speed a notch helped keep the blade from getting too hot. An output table extension to support the resawn board is a real plus for boards longer than twice your table width. For the in feed side, a roller stand works well for me, but I seldom cut anything over 6’ long.

Although a low tooth count may sound like it will leave a rough cut, the biggest problem in resawing boards 6” and over is the generation of sawdust in the cut. To remove it you want deep gullets between the teeth to clear it out well. Also, if you have a zero-clearance insert, you may want to enlarge the slot in front of the blade some to help get the sawdust out of the way. Otherwise it can build up under the board as you go. (Did I mention that resawing can generate a LOT of sawdust?)

You may want to try a 1” x 3 tpi blade to start with. I have read numerous posts from people with larger saws that do a lot of resawing that the carbide tipped blades, even though initially expensive, produce a nicer cut as well as last many times longer, making them the best economically in the long run. Hopefully, ones who have them will chime in yea or nay on them.

Summary: Wide blade and low tooth count.


-- Go

View DonH's profile


495 posts in 2781 days

#15 posted 11-08-2010 01:10 AM

Well – I have both a non carbide blade (woodslicer) and a carbide tipped blade (Laguna) both are excellent but the Laguna is truly best at resaw. The woodslicer is next best ane one tenth the cost – almost.

The Laguna carbide tipped blade can be resharpened a numer of times but not the woodslicer. I recommend the woodslicer as a first try and if you do a lot or resawing then you should consider the Laguna.

I use the woodslicer as a day to day blade including occasional resaw. If doing serious resaw, I use the Laguna.

Both give a glue ready cut and are very close to a quality table saw cut.

-- DonH Orleans Ontario

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