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Adjustment Hard stops on a sawstop

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Forum topic by EugdOT posted 04-07-2017 12:38 PM 979 views 0 times favorited 17 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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EugdOT

214 posts in 395 days


04-07-2017 12:38 PM

Topic tags/keywords: question

Has anyone adjusted the 45 degree hard stop on a pcs. Lately i been making small boxes for the holidays and for my kids. I just can’t seem to get all the corners mitered tightly. I have tried a bunch of things. I zeroed the miter gauge using garage woodworks dial indicator way. Used a backer on the miter gauge to increase stability. Have zeroed my blade when 90 and checked in 45. I have changed blades 25 rip , 50 combo, 60 fine tooth, tried metering on either side of the blade tilted at 45. Best results when on the side that it is tilted on but one side not as tight. Made a dedicated 45 degree sled.
I put a digital wixey meter on it and the degree is consistently 45.2 after zeroing it out.
It’s not the end of the world because I usually roll closed the meters with a burnisher but got me thinking. Any ideas would be great appreciated.


17 replies so far

View johnstoneb's profile

johnstoneb

2642 posts in 2013 days


#1 posted 04-07-2017 01:39 PM

I have adjusted the stop on my SS contractors saw. Its easy to do. The stop is access with an allen wrench in the table top. I would double check your 45 with a combination square. The wixxey is so sensitive that it is hard to get it right on.

-- Bruce, Boise, ID

View Redoak49's profile

Redoak49

2906 posts in 1828 days


#2 posted 04-07-2017 01:45 PM

I find it difficult to get perfect miter corners using my Sawstop. The blade needs to be just right, holding it tight and getting opposite sides of the box exactly the same length.

I will cut them close as possible and then use a shooting plane set up to get it exact.

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

4769 posts in 2333 days


#3 posted 04-07-2017 01:49 PM

I haven’t, but I looked in the manual and it doesn’t look all that hard. I’m sure the access isn’t all that easy but it’s probably still worth adjusting, especially if you do a lot of miters.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

View EugdOT's profile

EugdOT

214 posts in 395 days


#4 posted 04-07-2017 01:50 PM

The opposite sides are exactly the same size, I checked it with a combo square and it appears to be touching as per the instructions, I hd the best results so far on the tilted side of the blade with a miter gauge and a backer board for its only one side open. I’m going to try to adjust the stop when I get home. I’m about to make this jig, but realized that I would want to be able to make 45 degree cuts for much longer peices

View Carloz's profile

Carloz

989 posts in 431 days


#5 posted 04-07-2017 02:06 PM

45.2 degrees is very good for a table saw. For example digital gizmos have close the that accuracy. The right way is to use some 45 degrees template like combination square than relying on the stops.

View EugdOT's profile

EugdOT

214 posts in 395 days


#6 posted 04-07-2017 02:16 PM

I double checked the combination square base and it appears that the blade is resting in it. I’m trying to figure out what else it might be or what I can do to help get tighter meters on a box other than closing the outside edges with out rolling a burnisher or round screw driver on it? I see guys I’m videos get all 4 corners tight with the same strategies I’m am using, I got it down to one corner but feel that there has to be a more constant way

View bonesbr549's profile

bonesbr549

1445 posts in 2907 days


#7 posted 04-07-2017 02:24 PM

Ok also keep in mind the wixley has a precision factor its not absolute out to infinity. I like a precision square/45 combo to double check.

You might be getting a hair deflection on your blade too. I had a thin kerf blade that I had a problem like that and to fix it I would cut the piece a hair long and only trim that final 32nd off seemed to work. I switched back to thick kerf problem dissapeared. If you are truly off .2 degree you could adjust per the manual.

-- Sooner or later Liberals run out of other people's money.

View EugdOT's profile

EugdOT

214 posts in 395 days


#8 posted 04-07-2017 02:27 PM

What blade should I use, 25 rip, 50 combo, 60 fine, I even have a 80 tooth, that might change the cut quality all the blades I have are freud. All fairy new.

View JoeK1's profile

JoeK1

6 posts in 254 days


#9 posted 04-07-2017 07:50 PM

Is your blade tilt axis parallel to the table surface at 45 deg. My PCS isn’t. I tried once to correct it and made it worse so returned to the original setting. The procedure in the manual for Aligning the blade to the tilt axis, page 67, states that “This alignment procedure is not intuitive” (true statement) and to follow each step precisely, etc. etc. I am quite sure the present setting will result in burn marks on Maple or Cherry, though I haven’t tried it. The resulting cut angle could be different than what the Wixley indicates the blade angle is.

View OggieOglethorpe's profile

OggieOglethorpe

1276 posts in 1950 days


#10 posted 04-07-2017 08:12 PM

Wixey boxes are fine for lots of things, but not for 4+ side completed circle angles or machine calibration.

Remember, .2 degrees x 4 is almost a degree off by the time you get back around. The errors are worse for 5, 6, 8, 12, etc… sides, as they’re additive. And… you don’t know what the real angle is due to resolution.

If you don’t have a quality 45 degree reference like a good combo square or Woodpeckers 45, the best cheap alternative is a plastic drafting square, as in the Stadtler stuff at Staples…

View oldwood's profile

oldwood

112 posts in 1084 days


#11 posted 04-08-2017 02:36 AM

I suggest you put as much effort into being sure opposing sides are EXACTLY the same length. No matter how accurate the angles are if the side are not totally equal they will not close tight.

View Rrrandy's profile

Rrrandy

212 posts in 319 days


#12 posted 04-08-2017 02:49 AM


I suggest you put as much effort into being sure opposing sides are EXACTLY the same length. No matter how accurate the angles are if the side are not totally equal they will not close tight.

- oldwood


I agree. This is typically the problem. Your miters could be perfect but if your opposing sides of the box are even slightly off your corners will not close nicely. Trust me…

-- Y'all need to locate a sense of humor. Borrow one if you can't find yours...

View mrg's profile

mrg

786 posts in 2839 days


#13 posted 04-08-2017 03:34 AM

Another thing that will make your angles not close up is if your board is not the same thickness.

-- mrg

View EugdOT's profile

EugdOT

214 posts in 395 days


#14 posted 04-08-2017 04:19 AM

Thanks for the info, I usually use stop blocks to make sure that the stock is the same size when beveling, what tooth blade do you guy use to get good mitered corners and beveled cuts?

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

4769 posts in 2333 days


#15 posted 04-08-2017 11:30 AM

IME the best results come from using a high tooth count crosscut blade (unless you ripping, doh!) and while I have no idea if it makes a difference, mine are all full kerf blades. The one I usually use is a Freud LU85 on the TS.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

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