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Uncertain about oil/varnish/thinner finish, too late to change?

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Forum topic by gstuartw posted 04-06-2017 05:49 PM 385 views 0 times favorited 7 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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gstuartw

8 posts in 1460 days


04-06-2017 05:49 PM

My wife and I agreed on the Sam Maloof type finish for some shelves in our kitchen. The finish is equal parts of Satin Poly, Tung Oil and Paint Thinner. We’re happy with the look and feel but a little concerned about it holding up to use. Is is possible to varnish over this finish to create a more permanent and protective finish?

Thanks,

Stuart


7 replies so far

View jerryminer's profile

jerryminer

805 posts in 1279 days


#1 posted 04-06-2017 08:41 PM

Yes, as long as the original finish has cured, you can coat over with straight poly, or thinned poly if you prefer.

(The “Tung Oil” is the element that may take some time to cure. The term “Tung Oil” is often used by manufacturers to label a multitude of various finishes, sometimes actual pure tung oil, but often not.)

-- Jerry, making sawdust professionally since 1976

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gstuartw

8 posts in 1460 days


#2 posted 04-06-2017 08:50 PM

Thanks, I’m using Woodcraft’s Pure Tung. How does one know the finish has cured?

View firefighterontheside's profile

firefighterontheside

16941 posts in 1694 days


#3 posted 04-06-2017 09:20 PM

Touch it. Does it feel dry? How long has it been on there?
If you like the way it looks and feels, it won’t be that way after you put straight poly over it.

-- Bill M. "People change, walnut doesn't" by Gene.

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gstuartw

8 posts in 1460 days


#4 posted 04-06-2017 09:37 PM

Firefighter, it is dry, the last coat was days ago. Not all things dry have cured was the reason for that question.I’m sure we’ve all seen descriptions for products that state different drying times. To the touch dry, handling dry, regular use dry etc. ;)

Simple enough thanks. I understand there will be a difference but also a difference in the wear. The look and feel of the Maloof is very natural as if the wood has simply aged. My plan is to use Varnish, if I add anything at all. I agree with you on a dramatic change in looks with straight poly. Straight poly is too thick and sits on top of the wood taking away the character. Good on gym floors but not for the look I’m going for.

Thanks to both of you, I appreciate it.

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firefighterontheside

16941 posts in 1694 days


#5 posted 04-06-2017 10:06 PM

I used a similar finish on my sculpted rocker, but I did not thin it with spirits. I like the look too.

-- Bill M. "People change, walnut doesn't" by Gene.

View JayCee123's profile

JayCee123

196 posts in 602 days


#6 posted 04-07-2017 12:04 AM

An oil/poly mix ?
Something like General Finishes oil/Urethane. Comes in a variety of finish sheens. Easy to apply. Can be thinned as necessary.
As with the application of any topcoat, test a sample for adhesion and appearance.

View LittleShaver's profile

LittleShaver

207 posts in 457 days


#7 posted 04-07-2017 02:14 PM

I’d suggest a couple of coats of 50% poly/MS wiped on. Gloss or semi is your call. should add some protection without building to plastic. ++ on test a sample. Your initial finish is going to take quite a while to cure fully. I’d give it at least a week in a warm dry environment, longer if cold and wet.

-- Sawdust Maker

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