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Rounding Edge Banding Corners

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Forum topic by CarlSanSoc posted 03-30-2017 04:21 PM 446 views 0 times favorited 4 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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CarlSanSoc

4 posts in 305 days


03-30-2017 04:21 PM

Topic tags/keywords: routing edge banding corners table question tip

I’m planning to build a table with 3/4” edge banding using 1.5” oak. I’ll attach it with biscuits to 3/4” Baltic Birch. The table size is about 30”X43”. The banding will be 1/4” proud of the birch surface because I’m planning to place a layer of 1/16” thick copper printing plates of fossils that my father collected which will then be protected with a 3/16” sheet of plate glass. This combination will then be flush with the surface of the edge banding. I’m also planning to miter the corners. I want to round the corners because the table will be in a house that my brothers and I will be renting weekly for vacation rentals. My one brother is concerned that 90 degree mitered corners will be a liability hazard for small children. My gut feeling is that this is being overly paranoid but in the interest of family harmony I’m going to try doing this.

I have Rockler’s corner rounding template for routing a rounded corner. I was thinking of using the 3/8” radius with a top-guided bearing bit and double-sided taping the template to the corners needing rounding. I’ll use a support to make up the gap between Baltic Birch and top plane of the edge banding so that the router base stays level. My concern is that I have not found anywhere examples of someone rounding corners on a miter-joined joint. I worry that the grain running in opposite directions will tear out. I don’t think I can route the corners in advance. I’ve considered just using a belt sander to get the radius but don’t think it will have as polished a look as a router rounded corner.

I’m hoping the talent in this forum will have some experience or answers. I’ve learned a tremendous amount here and hope someday to equal the skill level of my fellow woodworkers. Thanks in advance.

Carl


4 replies so far

View jerryminer's profile

jerryminer

811 posts in 1280 days


#1 posted 03-30-2017 06:38 PM

Hi Carl. I work in a cabinet shop and have done round-overs on mitered trim like you are contemplating many times.

I think you are right to be concerned about tear-out with a router. It MIGHT work, but it’s risky.

I use a hand-held belt sander, oriented vertically, following a pencil line on the top surface, and follow up with a hand sanding block, horizontally. It only takes a minute to do a corner.

-- Jerry, making sawdust professionally since 1976

View bondogaposis's profile

bondogaposis

4482 posts in 2190 days


#2 posted 03-30-2017 08:31 PM

Draw the line using the template. Rough saw w/ a jig saw then sand to the line. It will be quicker than the router set up and in the end look better, especially if you avoid tear-out. I’d say the router method is risky. Your brother is absolutely right, small children can really hurt themselves on sharp corners, especially considering they will be in an unfamiliar environment.

-- Bondo Gaposis

View Loren's profile

Loren

9633 posts in 3487 days


#3 posted 03-30-2017 08:42 PM

I would rasp and file it.

You’re right about router tear-out at the
end. There are ways to back up the grain
so it doesn’t tear-out but a rasp and file
approach will get it ready for sanding in
a few minutes.

If you don’t have wood rasps/files yet, take
a look at Iwasaki files.

View CarlSanSoc's profile

CarlSanSoc

4 posts in 305 days


#4 posted 03-31-2017 05:46 PM

Thank you all. Some great recommendations. And a chance to check out the Iwasaki files.

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