Rounding Edge Banding Corners

  • Advertise with us

« back to Woodworking Skill Share forum

Forum topic by CarlSanSoc posted 03-30-2017 04:21 PM 764 views 0 times favorited 4 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View CarlSanSoc's profile


4 posts in 614 days

03-30-2017 04:21 PM

Topic tags/keywords: routing edge banding corners table question tip

I’m planning to build a table with 3/4” edge banding using 1.5” oak. I’ll attach it with biscuits to 3/4” Baltic Birch. The table size is about 30”X43”. The banding will be 1/4” proud of the birch surface because I’m planning to place a layer of 1/16” thick copper printing plates of fossils that my father collected which will then be protected with a 3/16” sheet of plate glass. This combination will then be flush with the surface of the edge banding. I’m also planning to miter the corners. I want to round the corners because the table will be in a house that my brothers and I will be renting weekly for vacation rentals. My one brother is concerned that 90 degree mitered corners will be a liability hazard for small children. My gut feeling is that this is being overly paranoid but in the interest of family harmony I’m going to try doing this.

I have Rockler’s corner rounding template for routing a rounded corner. I was thinking of using the 3/8” radius with a top-guided bearing bit and double-sided taping the template to the corners needing rounding. I’ll use a support to make up the gap between Baltic Birch and top plane of the edge banding so that the router base stays level. My concern is that I have not found anywhere examples of someone rounding corners on a miter-joined joint. I worry that the grain running in opposite directions will tear out. I don’t think I can route the corners in advance. I’ve considered just using a belt sander to get the radius but don’t think it will have as polished a look as a router rounded corner.

I’m hoping the talent in this forum will have some experience or answers. I’ve learned a tremendous amount here and hope someday to equal the skill level of my fellow woodworkers. Thanks in advance.


4 replies so far

View jerryminer's profile


944 posts in 1590 days

#1 posted 03-30-2017 06:38 PM

Hi Carl. I work in a cabinet shop and have done round-overs on mitered trim like you are contemplating many times.

I think you are right to be concerned about tear-out with a router. It MIGHT work, but it’s risky.

I use a hand-held belt sander, oriented vertically, following a pencil line on the top surface, and follow up with a hand sanding block, horizontally. It only takes a minute to do a corner.

-- Jerry, making sawdust professionally since 1976

View bondogaposis's profile (online now)


4996 posts in 2499 days

#2 posted 03-30-2017 08:31 PM

Draw the line using the template. Rough saw w/ a jig saw then sand to the line. It will be quicker than the router set up and in the end look better, especially if you avoid tear-out. I’d say the router method is risky. Your brother is absolutely right, small children can really hurt themselves on sharp corners, especially considering they will be in an unfamiliar environment.

-- Bondo Gaposis

View Loren's profile


10477 posts in 3796 days

#3 posted 03-30-2017 08:42 PM

I would rasp and file it.

You’re right about router tear-out at the
end. There are ways to back up the grain
so it doesn’t tear-out but a rasp and file
approach will get it ready for sanding in
a few minutes.

If you don’t have wood rasps/files yet, take
a look at Iwasaki files.

View CarlSanSoc's profile


4 posts in 614 days

#4 posted 03-31-2017 05:46 PM

Thank you all. Some great recommendations. And a chance to check out the Iwasaki files.

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics