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sharpening jig for bowel gouge

5K views 26 replies 11 participants last post by  Karda 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
This is the set up i made for sharpening roughing gouge and skews works ok for spindle gouges as well. Is there a jig I can use with this sander as it is. others I have seen involve an extended tool rest. and it is a pain to replace the tool rest every time I want to sharpen a tool. I looked at utube and every body uses a grinder.

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#3 ·
If re-design your jig only have to move the V-block. Or look into making your own Ellsworth or Vari-grind jig so can adjust bevel angle. Ability to move the tool holder in & out essential for sharpening different turning tools. Ellsworth & Vari-grind jigs great for bowl & spindle gouges.



Really not much out there for sharpening with a belt sander unless design your own jigs that work for you. Folks use both narrow & wide belt sanders to sharpen their tools. Might take a look at jigs made for Sorby sharpening system and see if that helps.

https://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/p/93/4220/Robert-Sorby-Pro-Edge-Sharpening-System-6-Piece-Set

I used to free hand sharpen with my hand held belt sander mounted in homemade tool holder for short time until bought a bench grinder made some homemade tool rest & jigs before buying wolverine system. That was more than 20 years ago!
 
#5 ·
what I am doing know is rolling my gouges back and for it works so far, can I do the same with a bowl gouge. Can I use the jig I have in the picture or do I need an Ellsworth style jig. The review mike did is why I got the sander instead of a Grider, but to do it his way you would have to take off the extended tool rest to do skews and roughing gouges
 
#8 · (Edited by Moderator)
Thank Gerry! You beat me to the post… Today alone, I had to sharpen my 1/2in, and /34in. Versa Lathe Chisels, and my 7/8in gouge, before turning a couple of handplane knobs out of Honduran Rosewood (heavy/dense & hard). I spent less than a minute each doing so. After all these years I am still on my original twisted belt, and only my 3rd sanding belt (180-grit).

Karda, I used a piece of T-Track to make an extended adjustment tool holder. Works like a champ. BTW, you might consider ditching the disc sanding wheel for a buffing wheel too.

EDIT: I have gotten lazy and don't even set up the extended tool rest. It only changes my angle slightly and I don't notice anything different.
 
#15 ·
Hi, Mike I have thought about a buffing wheel or something I can use for my carving tools but I can t get the wheel off, I had a hard time getting it on. could you explain more about the T Track

- Karda
Follow the link and scroll down to where it shows how I surface mounted the T-Track and dado'd the block to fit over it.
http://lumberjocks.com/reviews/3179

You will also need something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Eazypower-81042-Adaptor-Thread-1-Pack/dp/B000BPOOII
NOTE: I did this ~4yr ago, and if I recall correctly, I remember having to shim the motor adapter to get it to work. MacGyver style, as you will have to fabricate some of this.
 
#19 ·
I can't get the face plate off. It went on hard and there is no room to hold the edges to wiggle it unless I cut off the guard. is there a temporary adhesive that I can use on it, then I could use for honeing my carving knoives with 1500 grit paper
 
#20 ·
The plastic guard is held on with screws. What you may have not noticed yet, is that the aluminum sanding disc is held on to the shaft with a 5/32in Allen set-screw. That set-screw has to be loosened in order to completely remove the plastic guard and sanding disc from the shaft.

You may be able to get to that set-screw without trying to remove the plastic guard. However I remember to screws holding that guard to the pulley cover. That set-screw should be sticking out behind the plastic guard. You MAY (if I remember correctly) have to remove the pulley cover to gain access to the set-screw. You cannot completely remove it, but move it as far off as you can, in order to get at the set-screw.

After you loosen the set-screw, I think you will be surprised at how easy things come apart at that point. Good luck… and remember to take cell phone pictures of your progress…
 
#22 ·
You have me a bit confused. Sounds like you used a BFH (Big ********************in' Hammer) to install it in the first place. Personally, WITHOUT claiming/accepting any responsibility, I would work on building/expanding a wedge between the pulley and the sander arbor/set-screw(after loosening of course). At this point, you need to start channeling MacGyver. Once removed, the rest should be easy…

You have the tools, the information, and the gumption to make this work. Go for it and keep us posted. Keep us posted…
 
#24 · (Edited by Moderator)
That looks more like a roughing spindle gouge which is used for spindle work.

What Blake is using is what is used for making the Irish Grind and using the Wolverine Vari-Grind Attachment

http://www.packardwoodworks.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=packard&Product_Code=142614&Category_Code=

I have the whole setup and would not go without it or doing it by hand anymore. They work great and I am sure you can adapt it to yours quite easy since I had the sanding at one time before I got the CBN wheel

http://www.packardwoodworks.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=packard&Product_Code=142619&Category_Code=
 
#25 ·
I didn t use a big ********************in hammer, but I did have to sand out the hole some so it would slip on the shaft. I don t use the big hammer I just hit a lot harder with a small one.
- Karda
Karda,
Not trying to offend. I have an entire big zip-lock bag full of the extra HF parts, and there are NO broken/deformed parts, etc. from my conversion. Just trying to assist. There does come a point where the OP has to take ownership in the undertaking and the trying to "solve" what their own needs expect/need. I have done what I can, other than doing it for you.

You now, have the tools and knowledge to do this, and I wish you success. Keep us posted… And remember to image your progress…
 
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