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Choosing my first Router for TS Extension Wing

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Forum topic by apehl posted 03-29-2017 09:56 PM 513 views 0 times favorited 9 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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apehl

51 posts in 516 days


03-29-2017 09:56 PM

Topic tags/keywords: router table saw wing fixed base router table bosch dewalt

Just got a G0715p hybrid table saw. I currently dont have a router table. I use a Bosch Colt palm router for all of my current needs but would like to have a dedicated spot in my small shop. I do have a used Dewalt DW621 plunge router that i havent used but from what i have read doesnt sound like it would be best served as an under mount.

I dont want to invest a ton of money into a router plate and heavy duty router unless you all think the value is there for buying a high end 3.5hp unit right out of the gate. I dont know to what extent it will get used but my goal is to start using it more and more as my skill develop.

Suggestions on different levels of fixed routers that are user friendly (mounting, cost, adjusting depth) and any suggestions for must have accessories (cost effective router plates, lifts, fences, etc.). Or would it be best to stay with the two routers i have and retrofit them into my wing?

Thank you much!


9 replies so far

View Rrrandy's profile

Rrrandy

212 posts in 318 days


#1 posted 03-29-2017 10:19 PM

I have the Benchdog Promax cast iron router table extension with the Dewalt dw618. Love them both. Have always had plenty of power. I would mount your dw621 and see if it fits your requirements. Why spend money when you’ve already got what you need?

-- Y'all need to locate a sense of humor. Borrow one if you can't find yours...

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simonov

51 posts in 344 days


#2 posted 03-29-2017 10:24 PM

I just bought a Triton for that very application. It just arrived and I am working out how to set it up. The advantage of the Triton is it can be installed as a table router without any need for a lift or a plate. It has a height adjustment accessible from above the table.

The problem with the Triton is that as a safety measure you need to move the switch to the off position before you can change a bit. This means, in the case of a table mount, reaching under the table to work the switch, even if you have a switch on the power cord or the power cord is unplugged. This is a problem for me because I had hoped to enclose the router in a box with a dust control port at the bottom. So either i put a door on the DC enclosure so I can access the switch; or I use a plate/insert after all so I can lift the router out of the table every time I want to change a bit (and it’s a big, heavy router that will need a big strong insert). It’s frustrating because otherwise this router would be perfect for table right out of the box: just bolt it to the underside of your table and go.

I still like the unit because, whatever its shortcomings, it still eliminates the need for a lift, so I’m keeping it. I just have to work out how I’m going to work with the lame safety “enhancement” (like a trigger lock is an enhancement to a firearm).

As for fences, I reckon they don’t need to be very complicated, though there are a lot of complicated ones out there.

-- Nunc est bibendum.

View eflanders's profile

eflanders

219 posts in 1689 days


#3 posted 03-29-2017 11:56 PM

A lift isn’t needed, but it sure make things easier. If I were in your shoes, I would just mount your current router to a home-made table, work with it awhile and see if you can then justify the added costs of a lift, etc..

View Holbs's profile

Holbs

1725 posts in 1868 days


#4 posted 03-30-2017 12:49 AM

I would guess…one of the “starter” routers to aspire for is the proven reliable Bosch 1617. Like Randy above, I have the same Benchdog Promax fitted to the left of the blade on my right tilt Unisaw. Very very happy with it as I come from the more rickety Bosch benchtop router table setup with plastic inserts which pushed me into the cast iron top arena. I was at that juncture of deciding to make a router table project or the Promax: due to space in my shop, I went Promax. I have no router lift. Because I have easy access to the raising/lowering mechanisms, I do not think I’ll go after one either (granted, I have not yet done under the table dust collection either).

-- The Carpenter Bee is derived from the Ancient Greek word wood-cutter

View firefighterontheside's profile

firefighterontheside

16948 posts in 1695 days


#5 posted 03-30-2017 01:22 AM

I have my 3 1/4 horse triton in my router table. I don’t find it too inconvenient to reach under and push the switch. I have to turn the lock anyway, so I’m always opening it. The door on the front of my router cabinet just has a little wood latch to hold it closed and is sealed with weatherstrip so I can have dust collection under there. The other option with the triton is just hooking up a hose to plastic dust cover. That would probably do a good job on its own of collecting most dust and chips. I removed that part on mine.

-- Bill M. "People change, walnut doesn't" by Gene.

View Madmark2's profile

Madmark2

373 posts in 427 days


#6 posted 03-30-2017 02:13 AM

I have a 3-1 / 2 hp Milwaukee Heavy Duty router hiding under the Incra plate. It is a plunge router and i set it below because the setting will swim from when sitting on a table and when hanging from the plate.

Have spent as much on bits as the router & plate.

If you plan on doing any raised panels, frames, edging etc you’ll need a router. Used mine to make perfectly flat dados last night. Once you have it (& bits) you’ll find 101 used for it. You just can’t sling a 3” panel cutter on a small handheld one.

M

View Gripbd's profile

Gripbd

16 posts in 631 days


#7 posted 03-30-2017 03:31 AM

I had the same problem with the Triton switch lockout. In fact, I hadn’t used it for awhile, and forgot about the locking feature. The result was that I broke the
end of the shaft that tha crank fits on. I decided that the locking switch was too much of a pain, and converted the router back to a plunge router.

I’m in the process of building a router lift using 1/4” aluminum plate, and linear motion shafts and bearings. I got the plate from the salvage yard where it’s priced by the pound. I have less than $70 in materials. I have a Portamate 31/4 hp motor mounted in it.

I haven’t been able to try it yet because the new plate is smaller than the old plate and I have to rebuild the router
table top.

Has anyone else tried using linear motion parts for projects like this? My next router table project (after I replace the top) is a micro adjustable fence.

View Andybb's profile

Andybb

554 posts in 442 days


#8 posted 03-30-2017 04:33 AM

IMHO….Save some $. Buy a lift off of Craigslist or Ebay and just leave one of your routers in the lift. If you really want to save $ build the Stumpy Nubs lift and see how often you use it before investing in a commercial one. Swapping in and out of a lift is a pain as well as adjusting from under the table. Always having a router ready to go and easily adjustable makes for a smoother work flow. Fences are easy to build.

-- Andybb - GO HAWKS!

View simonov's profile

simonov

51 posts in 344 days


#9 posted 03-31-2017 08:01 PM

The other people who posted are a lot more experienced than I am, but I thought I would share my recent experience.

My Triton TRA001 3¼ HP plunge router arrived this week, and today I installed it in my table saw’s extension table. Now this was just a quick install to get it up and running, and I bolted it directly to the table. Eventually, I’m going to make phenolic inserts for the router which will give me a little more flexibility.

Here it is attached to the underside of the table:

Now I have been whining in this thread and elsewhere about the requirement with the Triton that the power switch needs to be turned off before you can change the bits. I’m going to have to make a door or hatch in the dust control box I’m going to build around the router, so I can access the switch easily. But that doesn’t bother me so much, because the built-in micro adjust is so awesome.

Here’s how it looks from the top:

That’s the height adjustment crank sticking out of the table.

I must admit, I find I am a little intimidated by the 3¼ HP Triton (I’m used to my old 1¾ HP Porter-Cable 690); I’m glad it’s attached to a table. But it’s still a little scary.

Now I understand you don’t need a router lift for a table router. But I dislike adjusting the height on my Porter-Cable and I had already decided I was going to rig up some kind of router lift (home made, not store bought). But with the Triton, I got everything I needed in one package, for $234.88 from Carbide Processors. I thought that was a pretty good value.

Now to make the fence, phenolic inserts and dust control set-up. But first, I’m gonna make some chips.

-- Nunc est bibendum.

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