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HVLP Spraying Newbie

2K views 12 replies 7 participants last post by  Carloz 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
I have some interior doors I want to spray with latex paint.
I will be borrowing a friends Rockler HVLP system.
I have never used this or any other paint sprayer.
I did read a thread on the Rockler HVLP and learned it is a very cheap unit but good results are possible.
So I have some questions:

Is there a certain brand or type of paint that works best? I usually buy Behr from home depot, but Sherwin Williams is also near by.

Does the paint need to be thinned with something like Floetrol? Is there a recommended ratio or is it just trial and error?

Would it be best to lie the doors down on a drop cloth horizontally and do one side at a time, or hang them vertically so I can do the whole door at once? Is there enough overspray that I need need set up a booth in the garage?

Any tips would be appreciated.

Thanks
 
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#2 ·
For big projects I use an airless sprayer, but have used HVLP guns too. I thin latex or acrylic paint with water until it sprays well, usually about 10%.

If the Rockler gun doesn't work, a gravity feed HVLP conversion gun with a 2.0mm needle and nozzle set will work.

For doors, I drive three heavy duty screws into the top and bottom of the door. That way I can rest the screws on a pair of sawhorses, and flip the door while its still wet.

On my last project I used Miller Breakthrough acrylic, and it sprayed really nice with the 2 mm nozzle.
 
#3 ·
I have an Earlex hvlp that I assume is step above the rockler unit. I have had bad luck spraying latex. I thinned it with water and floetrol. From what I've been told, you really need to mix it good with a paint mixer to break up the latex strings. I won't spray latex again. What I have used with great success is target coatings tinted lacquer, thinned with water. Looks great and dries fast.
 
#5 ·
I would not use latex paint. it does not thin well and spatters as it leaves the gun. it is just the molecular makeup of the product. I have had a lot of great outcomes with milk paint and chalk paint. it thins out well and you can coat it with a water base poly afterwards and it will be a great finish for a door. don't count out using oil based paint. a coat or two of a primer and a coat or two of top coat. again a great finish for a door. and much easier to clean up than you would think. shoot on your finish, pour out excess paint back to its container, pour a few ounces of mineral spirits into just emptied sprayer cup, screw onto gun and shake, then spray into empty trash can and its clean.
as for spraying the doors, flat on saw horses is easiest. due to the low pressure, there is not a lot of over spray. a simple sheet or plastic would be fine. ventilation will be determined by what product you are usesing
 
#7 ·
I think the gravity feed guns are pretty forgiving. Just get yourself a gun with a 2.0 mm nozzle set and you're in business (assuming you already have a compressor).

There are no brush marks in a sprayed finish!

As of today, Woodcraft has their gravity feed gun for $44 (add $13 for the 2.0 mm needle and nozzle set). Add an air regulator at the gun for $10-15 and you will never brush a finish again.

This way you don't need to worry about how many stages your turbine style HVLP has. If you need 5psi more pressure, just adjust the regulator a bit.
 
#10 ·
This is making me re-think about brushing it on instead of spraying.
I have a lot of experience brushing latex paint.
- Joel_B
I've sprayed doors using a gravity fed HVLP gun, but enamel… not latex. Took multiple coats to get a good layer built up. Also done the rattle can route on bi-fold metal closet doors - what a PITA that was. For latex, I just use a roller - faster and easier. And as mentioned, horizontal across saw horses works well and helps prevent drips/sags.

Cheers,
Brad
 
#11 ·
So I think I will try brushing / rolling and see how it goes.
Now I need to select a paint and SW Pro Classic and BM Advance seem to be the ones coming up.
I read Pro Classic has a tendency to run, but since the doors will be horizontal it should be ok and I know how to apply thin coats. From what I hear Advance has some oil in it and I am afraid it will yellow since I am using white paint.
 
#12 ·
So I think I will try brushing / rolling and see how it goes.
Now I need to select a paint and SW Pro Classic and BM Advance seem to be the ones coming up.
I read Pro Classic has a tendency to run, but since the doors will be horizontal it should be ok and I know how to apply thin coats. From what I hear Advance has some oil in it and I am afraid it will yellow since I am using white paint. Cabinet Coat is another but only comes in satin.

- Joel_B
 
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