I'm building a Greene and Greene Blanket Chest It's pretty much done. The lid breadboard ends protrude ¼" from the hinge edge of the top. Hopefully the pics explain it better. I'm afraid the hinges I planned to use don't allow much meat on the outer most screw when I move the knuckle out far enough for the ends of the breadboard ends to clear the back of the chest. Do I need an offset hinge? What is an offset hinge? How do you use them? Or, is there another solution. I'm wanting to use brass but hinges, something that looks classic, not euro hinges. Advice?
I'm not getting the issue - is it that the breadboard end is thicker than the top itself? Unless you put a shim under the hinge so the breadboard end clears I don't see a way around it. And if you do that the back of the lid will sit higher. You could bout some rubber bumpers or felt pads under the front edge to even things out, but that's probably not the answer you're looking for.
Yes! An extended throw hinge. Thank you. Jerry. Googled "extended hinge" for a few hours, so far I haven't found any that will work on a 5/8" thick top and sides, but I'm still looking. If anyone has a source…...
Dhazelton. Sorry I wasn't more clear. The thicknesses of the field and breadboard end are not my problem. Yes the breadboard ends are 3/16" thicker than the field is but the whole 3/16" stands proud of the top surface of the field, the field and the breadboard end are flush on the bottom. My problem is the length of the breadboard ends including the ebony spline are 1/4" longer than the field is wide on the hinge edge. I need a hinge (I think) that will reach out past those ebony splines with the pivot point of the hinge.
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