Blade for Grizzly G0555LX with Riser

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Forum topic by cag0331 posted 03-25-2017 08:24 PM 656 views 0 times favorited 7 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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13 posts in 728 days

03-25-2017 08:24 PM

Topic tags/keywords: bandsaw grizzly g0555lx resaw riser block blade carbide tension tension spring

I’m about to get the riser block for my G0555LX so i can resaw wider boards, and I’m trying to figure out what the best blade for that purpose would be. I’ve read that sometimes saws that say they can handle 3/4” blades have trouble tensioning them properly. Does anyone have any experience with this saw in that regard? Would replacing the tensioning spring with the Carter fix that problem if it exists? I’ve also heard carbide blades (ie the Resaw King) are even more difficult to tension; has anyone used a resaw king with this saw? Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

7 replies so far

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10359 posts in 1635 days

#1 posted 03-25-2017 08:57 PM

No way I’d try more than 5/8”. I have a 1/2” timberwolf that works great

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

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6949 posts in 2348 days

#2 posted 03-25-2017 10:52 PM

1/2” would be the largest I’d use on a saw with a riser. It’s not that the larger blades can’t be tensioned properly, but the fact that it is pushing the limits of the machine that other stuff can’t really handle. Push it just a hair too far, and things start to break – like the upper wheel pivot bracket which is a weak point on them. Keep in mind that the tension and forces exerted will increase as you are sawing, and the riser allows for even greater flexing of the frame, which will add even more. And putting a higher resistance spring in there will just make things worse. The spring should only be replaced if it can no longer provide the proper tension and bottoms out.


-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

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1288 posts in 752 days

#3 posted 03-25-2017 11:27 PM

Brad knows bandsaws. Yes. 3/4 is too much for a 14” BS. 1/2” 3tpi like a Timberwolf is the resaw sweet spot for a 14”. As always, watch Snodgrass a few times and follow it closely as well as the other BS forums here at LJ’s like this one that helped me immensly. Take your time. It’s all in the setup.

-- Andy - Seattle USA

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13 posts in 728 days

#4 posted 03-26-2017 04:21 AM

Okay, so 1/2” it is. Does anyone know if the non-Resaw King Laguna blades are anything special? Or should I just go with a Timberwolf or Woodslicer and be done with it? Also, has anyone upgraded the blade guides on this saw? If so, with what? And did it improve performance? thanks!

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Jim Finn

2682 posts in 3071 days

#5 posted 03-26-2017 02:18 PM

I have this saw and for resawing I use a “Supercuts” 1/2” carbide blade. About $28

-- No PHD just a DD214 Website>

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1288 posts in 752 days

#6 posted 03-26-2017 05:34 PM

As I recall there was discussion about guide upgrades here.

-- Andy - Seattle USA

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809 posts in 3470 days

#7 posted 03-26-2017 09:12 PM

I have this saw and for resawing I use a “Supercuts” 1/2” carbide blade. About $28

- Jim Finn

Just so there is no confusion the Supercuts Premium Gold Carbide blade is not a carbide tipped blade but is a standard carbon band with carbide impregnated teeth. It will outlast a carbon blade but not a bi-metal blade and won’t last nearly as long as a carbide tipped blade nor will it have the surface finish of a carbide tipped blade. Not a bad blade for the money but just making sure people don’t confuse the two.

The best resaw blade in terms of finish for a small cast iron saw is an impulse hardened spring steel blade. The best known is the Highland Woodslicer but Spectrum Supply and Iturra both sell the same blade stock for much less as the Kerfmaster and Blade Runner. These blades leave a very nice finish (not far behind a carbide toothed blade) due to the variable TPI and lack of set. They will however dull fairly quickly. The thin gauge backer allow a smaller saw to properly tension them. They are a good choice if you understand they will not last as long as a standard carbon blade which is a good reason not to spend near twice as much for them that Highland charges. If you aren’t worried about a very thin kerf and want a blade that will last longer and be cheaper a standard Lennox Flex Back 1/2” 3tpi blade will do a solid job. The Flex Back has some set to the teeth so it can be used to cut sweeping curves, the Woodslicer type blades have almost zero set so they are exclusively for straight line cuts.

I am not a big fan of small shielded ball bearing guides, they just require too much maintenance. The other issue with many stock guides is the difficulty in fine adjustment. Carter fixes the adjustment issues but you still have the long term bearing issues with their small guides. My choice for these 14” Delta clones is a solid guide and Space Age Ceramic sells the retrofit ceramic parts for about $75. You won’t have to replace bearings over and over and while it doesn’t make fine adjustment any easier ceramic are easier to set since you can run them just touching the blade with no heat issues and it helps keep the blade clean.

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