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Wood filler question?

2K views 22 replies 13 participants last post by  RonAylor1760 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Here is a question for all you wood butchers out there. How do you make wood filler? I have a hope chest I'm making that is made of "aromatic cedar" and I need some wood filler for it. I have used a brand name wood filler but, they don't have the type wood filler I need. What to do?
 
#2 · (Edited by Moderator)
I make a wood filler of sorts with saw dust, Titebond wood glue, and linseed oil. I keep a container of saw dust that has been sifted through a tea strainer … really fine stuff. I mix it as needed … don't really have a formula. Use just a drop or two of linseed oil, though. I only use cherry, sassafras, mahogany for the dust … tends to blend in the best … even on light colored woods. This has worked for me for quite some time.
 
#8 ·
I've used Famowood wood filler for nail holes in moldings it actually works.Using wood filler in furniture is not going to fool anyone.Most likely it's going to be obvious to even the most casual observer.
But they won't tell you to your face because you worked so hard on your project and they don't want hurt your feelings.
Leave the imperfection be as it is.
Aj
 
#9 ·
For larger cracks and gaps, I do as above, mixing wood glue with sawdust. For small cracks, I'll hit the crack with CA glue, wait a second or two for it to work into the crack, and then rub over the top with sawdust (wearing nitrile gloves) to force some sawdust into the crack. It will dry a little darker than the wood, but planes off relatively easily and makes a fairly solid fix for small cracks. Works well to keep small cracks from turning into big cracks.
 
#12 ·
I hate to disappoint some of you but, the wood filler is for some brad nail holes I put in my project. My cracks are OK. I used my brad nailer to attach a bottom skirt to my project not thinking of how I was gonna cover my stupid mistake. But, I do appreciate all the input on taking care of my problem. It's been a real help.

Thanks again guys.
 
#13 ·
I fill many many cracks and very small voids in cedar mixing sanding dust (sawdust is way to coarse) with white glue. Using yellow glue darkens the filler more than I like but white glue dries clear so it does not darken it. I mix the glue and sanding dust to the consistency of mayonnaise and apply it using a credit card as a squeegee. Forcing it into the crack.
 
#14 ·
I hate to disappoint some of you but, the wood filler is for some brad nail holes I put in my project. My cracks are OK. I used my brad nailer to attach a bottom skirt to my project not thinking of how I was gonna cover my stupid mistake. But, I do appreciate all the input on taking care of my problem. It s been a real help.

Thanks again guys.

- artsyfartsy
Next time … before nailing … put a bit of blue painters tape where you plan to nail. After setting the nail/brad … apply the wood filler right on the tape, pushing into the nail hole. Once dry, remove the tape. The filler is now just the size of the hole itself … you'll hardly see it!
 
#15 ·
Hey All,

I just gotta tell ya that the glue and sawdust really works great. I was very satisfied with the results. Thank you bunches for the ideas. Perhaps soon, I'll have pictures on the projects page for all to see.

Thanks again.
 
#16 ·
Sounds like a great idea…on my list to try.

Next time … before nailing … put a bit of blue painters tape where you plan to nail. After setting the nail/brad … apply the wood filler right on the tape, pushing into the nail hole. Once dry, remove the tape. The filler is now just the size of the hole itself … you ll hardly see it!

- Ron Aylor
 
#19 · (Edited by Moderator)
I would not display a butt joint as an example of a gap free joint as there is no joint to speak of. Wood filler often is used not to fix joint gaps but to deal with wood imperfections and random dings/tearouts from a machine. I do see tearouts on the left side of the box you displayed but that could be dealt with differently.

OP titebond mixed with sawdust works well as long as you do not stain your project. Once you do you may get glaring bright spots that make things worse than without wood filler at all.
Mostly I don t use filler, I try to keep the gaps to a minimum.

Brown Furniture Product Rectangle Wood


M

- Madmark2
 

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#20 · (Edited by Moderator)
Here is something I want to try.

A while back I watched a video of Russian wood turners as they made those famous wood "Matryoshka" nested dolls where they fit into each other. () These folks were master turners working in production. Their finish process was to give the wood dolls a coating of mashed potato that was made into a creamy shush and applied by hand. (4.50 time in video) When dry and sanded, the dolls were lacquered and ended with a perfect gloss finish. I have also noticed how forks used for eating baked potatoes and left overnight without washing have hard potato bits adhered and it takes a jackhammer to remove them! Now potato is mostly starch and water is used in the Russian process. This leads me to believe that this "potato filler" would take stain just like the surrounding wood. Never tried it, but I intend to one day. If you do, PLEASE report back!

Planeman
 
#22 ·
Went to the grocery store yesterday. Bought some instant mashed potato in a box with the idea that it should work as well as a fresh potato and could be mixed a little at a time as needed. I will be in the shop today and will begin the experiment. It may take a day or two to make sure the applied test piece is thoroughly dry after applying the potato mush. I will sand smooth, stain, and shellac. Will report back.

Planeman
 
#23 · (Edited by Moderator)
Went to the grocery store yesterday. Bought some instant mashed potato in a box with the idea that it should work as well as a fresh potato and could be mixed a little at a time as needed. I will be in the shop today and will begin the experiment. It may take a day or two to make sure the applied test piece is thoroughly dry after applying the potato mush. I will sand smooth, stain, and shellac. Will report back.

Planeman

- Planeman40
Please do … this is too cool!
 
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