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Delta 36-725 Fence Alignment Issues

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Forum topic by Jnick posted 03-24-2017 01:28 PM 905 views 0 times favorited 4 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Jnick

3 posts in 286 days


03-24-2017 01:28 PM

Topic tags/keywords: tablesaw delta 36-725 fence alignment rail

I purchased the Delta 36-725 to replace my Ridgid 4512 that I returned. Unfortunately, that saw has a really poor fence/alignment procedure and no matter what I did, I could not get consistent results.

Now I have a built 36-725 in my garage and tried to align the fence last night, however I’m running into three issues:

1. I got the fence to within 2/1000ths of an inch when using the right (long) rail. It is consistent every time. However, if I have the fence in an area where the left side of the T is on the short (left) rail and the right side of the T is on the right rail, I am way off, more like 3/100ths of an inch. From what I’m seeing, it looks as if on the back side of the fence guide tube, where the two section meet, it’s not flush. What is a sure method of getting the back side flush? It seems like it will not budge for me and no matter what, there is a slight lip where the short side protrudes out more than the long side.

2. Anytime I lock the fence down, the left side of the T, no matter where it is on the rail system, lifts up off the rail a bit. Granted, the fence is secure and does not move under pressure, however there is a lift to the left side T guide, where as the right side is touching the tube. How do I correct this? (pictures below)

Left side (where there is a gap): http://i.imgur.com/W6XhNj9.jpg?1

Right side (no gap): http://i.imgur.com/hVXXZI8.jpg?1

3. The back end of the fence is sloped down to where the very end actually pinches the table. Instead of the gap being equal all the way across, it’s slopes down, with the front at the highest point and the rear end actually touching the table (yet it does still slide pretty smooth!). I tried playing with the plastic adjustment screws on the T, but that will only affect the front of the fence, which is already too high. Is there a way to adjust the rear?

Pic: http://i.imgur.com/KwlxhLm.jpg?1

Any help is greatly appreciated!!

Thank you,
John


4 replies so far

View WhyMe's profile

WhyMe

909 posts in 1394 days


#1 posted 03-24-2017 01:45 PM

#3 _ The sides of the fence have some play to move up and down. Loosen the large nuts inside the box tube from the bottom access holes. Some folks have also added a shim under the backend nylon block to raise up the backend.

Not sure what the deal is with #1 and #2.

View patcollins's profile

patcollins

1605 posts in 2699 days


#2 posted 03-24-2017 03:28 PM

This is an issue that I am very interested in because I am pretty close to buying this saw myself.

I would take the tube apart and see if there were any burrs, flashing etc where the parts join, reassemble and take a straight edge to the tube assembly on all sides of it.

View simoncpj's profile

simoncpj

10 posts in 346 days


#3 posted 03-25-2017 03:48 AM

John, I have had this saw for a couple of months now so have experienced close to what you are. First, the front tube is the only thing the fence indexes from so having it in two pieces makes it finicky. Next having that tube ride on two pieces of angle iron further complicates things.

What I found is after your first attempt to get it right, you get to do it again but in a more methodical way. What has worked well for me is with the tube in place take the longest ruler you have to make sure the tube is level across the two sections, and is level to the table. If adjustments are needed, slightly loosen the bolts on the side needing adjustments then tap or whack with a mallet until even and lock down. When that is level, Move on to the tube joint. What I found helpful here was both the long ruler to make sure it is horizontally parallel (tube same difference away from face) across the tube. Then I uses a smaller ruler with a sharp corner to see if the tube sections mated flush. Again, adjustments are slightly loosen and tap with mallet.

It really is easier the second time as you are going from close to correct, not starting from scratch.

Regarding the fence, it sounds as if you may have the tee starting too high off the tube thus raising the fence in the front and causing it to seem to dip in the back. I might back both screws out until the fence sits on the table at the front and then bring them up just enough. And if the fence doesn’t move when you lock it, why worry about any lift unless it takes the fence out of vertical true.

BTW, you will likely need to shim a side of the fence to get them both true at the same time.

Good luck

View Jnick's profile

Jnick

3 posts in 286 days


#4 posted 03-28-2017 12:56 AM

#3 _ The sides of the fence have some play to move up and down. Loosen the large nuts inside the box tube from the bottom access holes. Some folks have also added a shim under the backend nylon block to raise up the backend.

Not sure what the deal is with #1 and #2.

- WhyMe

You sir, are the man. That did the trick. Adjusted the one side that was off and now I’m even across the whole thing!


If adjustments are needed, slightly loosen the bolts on the side needing adjustments then tap or whack with a mallet until even and lock down.

-simoncpj

You sir, are ALSO the man! In using the strategy above, I was able to get the guide tube aligned so now my fence is within 5/1000ths of an inch. While it may not be the 1-2/1000ths that most try for, I think it’s good enough to where I can actually get started!

Now, I just have to adjust the 90/45 degree angles and then I confirmed my blade is off 4/1000ths of an inch. That I may try to dial in a bit, providing I can find the right method to do so since I know there is much debate on this model.

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