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Forum topic by DATAfiend posted 1280 days ago 674 views 0 times favorited 4 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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DATAfiend

6 posts in 1401 days


1280 days ago

Hey all,
I’m thinking of some ideas for a new workbench. I had always thought benches should be bolted to the floor of the garage (just what I remember from my grandpa’s – waaaaay back). A buddy of mine suggested (instead of bolting) using liquid nails. Basically, you’re not drilling into the slab foundation (may drop value of house). And if you want to take out the 2X4’s, all you do is rip out the wood and grind away whatever is left.

Any ideas on that approach?


4 replies so far

View PurpLev's profile

PurpLev

8473 posts in 2151 days


#1 posted 1280 days ago

I personally don’t see any reason to bolt anything to the floor. If this is a workbench that needs to be stout and steady – make it heavy and hefty so that it won’t be going anywhere. From my experience, if a stout workbench is moving during work – it’s not the legs that are moving around the floor – it’s the top racking on the legs so bolting it down won’t make any difference.

then again – maybe I’m not seeing the whole picture, but I don’t have a single workbench bolted to the floor, and none of them has ever moved an inch (even when I wanted them to, it took some serious effort to slide them to the side)

as always – your miles may vary.

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

View Derek Lyons's profile

Derek Lyons

584 posts in 2071 days


#2 posted 1279 days ago

Pretty much as PurpLev says – if you need to glue it down for stability, you’ve got a (very) sub-par workbench. Not to mention you can’t re-arrange your shop.

-- Derek, Bremerton WA --

View dbray45's profile

dbray45

2468 posts in 1279 days


#3 posted 1278 days ago

Here’s a thought—if the bench is against the wall bolt it to the wall, always leave the floor alone. Walls are easy to fix but floors are a pain to repair. Once you make holes or add stuff in or to the floor you give yourself many problems later on. If you want a seriously stable workbench, make the frame with the back legs going back and to the outside by 5 degrees . Miter the bottoms of the legs to sit flat on the floor at the angle and put a piece of rubber on the bottom of each leg. Make the top a little bigger to accomodate the out stretched back legs but leave the back legs stay about 1” beyond the top. If your legs and frame are 4×4s your bench should not move – unless you pick it up or you don’t have sound joints.

-- David in Damascus, MD

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dbray45

2468 posts in 1279 days


#4 posted 1278 days ago

An easy way to cut the angled back legs flush to the floor – make all of the legs 1 3/4” longer than you want, the thichness of a 2×4. Assemble the frame as you normally would – but just the frame. Upon assembly, shim the back legs up until the top is level. Set a piece of 2×4 next to each side of all of the legs to give you reference lines – I do this on all sides especially the mitered legs. Using a sharp crosscut saw remove the waste. Your table should sit flat and straight. When you do just the frame, it is easier to put on its side and cut the legs.

-- David in Damascus, MD

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