LumberJocks Woodworking Forum banner

Best safety device(s)...

4K views 40 replies 32 participants last post by  SawduztJunky 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
I purchased my tablesaw 15 years ago. After suffering through a couple of kickbacks and cut finger tips I came to greatly respect the tablesaw and the damage it could do if not used properly. One of the best purchases I ever made was the GRR-Ripper. I still respect the saw but am more confidant when using it because of the GRR-Ripper. Another confidence enhancer is my use of feather boards on my router table.

What tool/device have you made/purchased that has raised your confidence level against injuries?
 
#4 ·
Riving knife on my saw. And not long ago, I broke down and bought a Grippr. So far, I like it.

I have a featherboard attached to an aux fence that I use when cutting thin plywood such as 1/4 inch. It helps to keep the material flat as it passes the blade.
Wood Gas Electrical wiring Auto part Bumper


A pair of Rockler clamps hold it to the fence.
Wood Bumper Audio equipment Musical instrument accessory Automotive exterior
 

Attachments

#5 ·
Best safety device? The one between your ears.

Think about what you are doing, keep your meaty bits away from spinning metal, and have a healthy respect for the damage that ALL power (and un-powered for that matter) tools can do.

Complacency and absentmindedness have no place in a workshop.
 
#6 ·
+1 on the GRR-Ripper. I have a fairly complete set of MagSwitch accessories for woodworking. The feather boards are very versatile, allowing double-stack for tall boards, or a horizontal/vertical configuration for pressing against the fence and holding down at the same time. There are dozens different ways to use it.
 
#8 ·
I have the Gripper and like it. I would suggest reviewing table saw safety rules as all saw accidents are preventable. A few guys here get really angry when I say that but it's true. Now I understand that not everyone is capable of staying focused, in that case you need to make best use of all the safety options available.

https://www.tru.ca/hsafety/workinglearningsafely/work/tablesaw.html
 
#10 ·
I have the Gripper and like it. I would suggest reviewing table saw safety rules as all saw accidents are preventable. A few guys here get really angry when I say that but it s true. Now I understand that not everyone is capable of staying focused, in that case you need to make best use of all the safety options available.

- Rick M
So true Rick!
 
#14 ·
I have a few, Table Saw Sleds, Rockler Small Parts Holder (for router table), and Grippers. Tough to pick one, but based on amount of use, I have to say the Grippers. I am always willing to buy something that makes me feel safer using my tools
 
#15 · (Edited by Moderator)
Flatting, straightening, and squaring lumber goes a long way toward reducing kickback. Lumber that doesn't rock while it's being ripped is less likely to bind and kickback….it also leaves a better cut. As much as a like my Grippers and my BORK riving knife, a jointer and planer should at least get mentioned.
 
#16 ·
My favorite safety device is one that's often overlooked (though Eric mentions it above), but it's my Incra miter sled. When I'm using it for cross-cutting, it's typically for larger/longer pieces, and allows me to keep my hands far away from the blade. As an additional perk, it also allows me to stand more to the side of the blade, rather than close to behind it, as is often necessary when ripping (though of course I try to offset as much as possible).
 
#17 ·
I'm reminded of a mirror that was in the rest rooms of my work place when I had a day job. At the top of the mirror was printed "The most important part of our safety program:" That aside, I did buy a Gripper once, after assembling it and looking things over, it just didn't appeal to me, so I returned it. I do use a lot of shop built push shoes and so on, I just didn't take to the Gripper for some reason.
 
#18 ·
It should be said table saw set up is the first of all safety improvements.

After that, the hands down biggest improvements to safety on my cabinet saw were the splitter and my push shoes (riving knives are nice, but most of us aren't going to spend several thousand to get the equivalent of what we have just to get what a splitter will do, with a little more effort.

If I could only have one (the splitter or the push shoe), it would be the shoes, but, since adding the splitter, the number of times I have had to knee the stop switch have been reduced to a minute fraction.

Grippers are nice and I wouldn't mind having one, but my shoes are more easily and cheaply replaced. I, regularly, run my push shoes through the blade, with no qualms about doing so. Because I have several widths, I can push 1/8" thick cuts through without dadoing or rabbiting the shoe. Of course, if I want to push both pieces beyond the blade, I can do that too.

With the splitter, wood that I had to grunt through the blade because it was pressing hard against the splitter didn't pinch the back of the blade and lift the wood, which, without the splitter, would have happened.
 
#19 ·
Brain, Blade guard, Brain, Push stick or block (grrrripper), Brain. In that order. Make sure your saw or any tools are properly tuned and aligned before using.

- papadan
Aye to that…Can't rely on equipment for safety….Like a cars seat belts all such things are welcome but driving in a safe manner comes first and foremost… I guess there's many ways to look at things and how we learn our lessons. It's not an argument about whats more important brains or mechanical safety devices because using them together is what's important.
 
#20 ·
I have the Gripper and like it. I would suggest reviewing table saw safety rules as all saw accidents are preventable. A few guys here get really angry when I say that but it s true. Now I understand that not everyone is capable of staying focused, in that case you need to make best use of all the safety options available.

https://www.tru.ca/hsafety/workinglearningsafely/work/tablesaw.html

- Rick M
I disagree. I will agree that the vast majority of accidents are preventable using your brain and the safety instructions. However I don't have x ray vision and cannot see debris that is hidden within the wood, nor can I see hidden stresses within the wood. ( I once ripped a 2×4 that half way through the rip started twisting, I shut off the saw and removed the 2×4 it writhed on the floor, split and a hidden knot popped out, the piece then writhed back to "normal" . This happened once in 50 years of woodworking, but it happened).
I also disagree on the gloves. Loose leather work gloves, I'm with you on this, absolute no go. Form fitting latex gloves to increase grip (my hands and finger will slip on sanded wood), yep, I'll go there; my preference is bare hands (better feel and reaction), but I'll adapt for safety.
In my years of woodworking, I've never cut myself with a running power tool (once sliced my finger changing the blade of a scroll saw). I have had several close calls (after changing my shorts), I review what happened, what I did wrong, and how to correct it (including Google searchs). I don't power up any tool if: I'm angry, tired, or have taken meds (until I know their effects, and sometimes not even then).
 
#21 ·
I used to teach my students to draw a line with a red sharpie extending the kerf line to the front of the saw. Telling the student that ANYTHING crossing the line will be cut off!

Hand and finger positioning habits are critical. NEVER use a splayed hand to feed rip stock. Keep your thumb tucked under your palm with your index finger forward as you feed. This way if your index finger clears, the thumb will also.

Hang you pinkie over the side of the fence so your hand can't slip.

Stand to the left of the blade.

Set your miter gauge up with an aux fence that stops just shy of the blade. When cross cutting if your fingers are on metal, you're safe.

A ZCI is a must have. Most blade guards are worthless, the tend to entangle small pieces in the anti kickback pawls.

Lots of light.

If the little bell in the back of your mind goes off listen to it! Stop, take a quick break and then recheck everything before going on.

Watch the leading edge of the blade. Some fools will tell you to look elsewhere to prevent kickback, but kickback happens at the blade. If you're standing to the left of the blade and kickback happens nothing is damaged anyway.

Repeat after me: I'm a woodworker and I have all ten! (Wiggles fingers in air)

M
 
#22 ·
I think we all know what safety devises are out there, but the biggest safety devise is experience.

Knowing how to set up for a cut, or when to use a jig, when not to try something.

There is no best devise that works.
There are multiple devises for different scenarios.

Having the knowledge/experience to select the proper method/devise
for making a cut goes a long way for safety.
 
#23 ·
Flatting, straightening, and squaring lumber goes a long way toward reducing kickback. Lumber that doesn t rock while it s being ripped is less likely to bind and kickback….it also leaves a better cut. As much as a like my Grippers and my BORK riving knife, a jointer and planer should at least get mentioned.
Hard to argue with that. Also good to remember to sticker, stack, and give a couple of days to your rough milled boards before milling to final dimension. Amazing how much tension can be released in the process-tension you don't want to find out about when you're ripping the board on the TS ;-)
 
#24 ·
Watch the leading edge of the blade. Some fools will tell you to look elsewhere to prevent kickback, but kickback happens at the blade. If you re standing to the left of the blade and kickback happens nothing is damaged anyway.
I don't totally agree with this statement because I think kickback occurs at the back of the blade. By the time you notice anything happening at the front of the blade, it may already be too late. I have not yet had a major kickback (one small 2"x4"x3/4 piece did hit me once and left a little bruise), but when I am making rip cuts my eyes are on the fence making sure the wood isn't starting to pull away from the fence, and the rear of the blade to make sure nothing is closing in on it. On a crosscut, just make sure the wood is supported by a sled or miter gauge and not able to get trapped between blade and fence.

I haven't read where anyone has mentioned using your other senses except for sight. I have had a couple of instances where I was able to hear something, like maybe the saw starting to labor more, before I actually saw it. Even through heavy ear protection. Or maybe something FEELS different when feeding the wood through. Maybe you SMELL come burning from wood binding against the blade. I suppose if you TASTE something it is most likely already too late too. In short, it takes ALL of you.

As far as safety devices, I think one of the best safety devices on my saw is a knee switch to shut it off. Right now it is only covering the switch itself, but I am considering making it go further across the front so I can hit it from practically any where. Of course, sleds, jigs, push sticks/blocks, etc are certainly all good too.

Wayne
 
#26 ·
Without a doubt having a clear head and not trying rush things! As for attachments/gadgets: A readily accessible push stick is my most used item. Mine all have magnets on them so there is always one at all of my saws "at the ready". I do a lot of ripping work and thus I invested in the Jess em saw guides for both my table saw (and my router table). With them in place and properly adjusted, I have yet to have even a "close call". IME, they were a very good investment. But when I am quickly trying to finish something up and fail to use them, well, that's when things can get real scary!
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top