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How well do the Danish Oils w/UV protection work?

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Forum topic by hokieskin posted 03-21-2017 02:53 AM 659 views 0 times favorited 6 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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hokieskin

4 posts in 157 days


03-21-2017 02:53 AM

Hey everyone. I’m a new member, but have been doing some research to try to find a good way to UV protect my turned projects. I like to use Watco Danish Oil. As it is easy, gives a nice deep luster and not real time consuming. But the wood does darken and the luster goes dull after a while.

Has anyone used any of the Danish Oils with UV protection? i.e. Liberon Superior Danish Oil, Watco Exterior Wood Finish, or Bestwood Danish Oil UV, or some other one I have not found.

Suggestions for keeping things the same color and sheen>

Thanks,
John

-- John, Mechanicsville, VA


6 replies so far

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OSU55

1319 posts in 1711 days


#1 posted 03-21-2017 12:15 PM

No, but concerning “finish oils” you might find this interesting. For no color change you will need to look into waterborne finishes. There are one or 2 supposedly formulated for turning. I use thinned solvent poly on turnings, except for small stuff where I may use CA glue.

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Fred Hargis

4549 posts in 2215 days


#2 posted 03-21-2017 12:22 PM

No experience with them either. But remember, UV protection works by absorbing the UV rays instead of reflecting them; and it’s effectiveness is reduced over time. True marine spar varnishes (probably the best of the clear finishes relative to UV protection) are typically applied with several coats to help build this UV protection. Now, danish oil is nothing more than very thin varnish with some BLO added (normally) and the UV protection will be in the varnish component. So you’re putting on a very thin coat of varnish and expecting it to absorb the UV effectively. Just a guess on my part, but it does not sound like win-win.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

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OSU55

1319 posts in 1711 days


#3 posted 03-21-2017 02:49 PM

Are you wanting outdoor protection or indorr direct sun exposure? Either one needs pigment, not just clear/translucent finish to be effective for any length of time.

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hokieskin

4 posts in 157 days


#4 posted 03-23-2017 03:42 PM

Thank-you for the comments.

I make mostly turnings that are kept inside. So the UV exposure would be indirect through the wiindows. But I have noticed that the colors have degraded over time as well as the sheen the piece once had.

Learning how to protect the original colors of exotic woods, or the beautiful color contrasts of spalting without having to cover them with other pigmented stains or thick film finishes would be great. But maybe this is not reasonable.

Thanks,
John.

-- John, Mechanicsville, VA

View Bill White's profile

Bill White

4735 posts in 3682 days


#5 posted 03-23-2017 05:02 PM

Gotta remember that when you’re dealing with a UV issue, you’re fightin’ the sun. The sun will win every time.
Bill

-- bill@magraphics.us

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pontic

360 posts in 330 days


#6 posted 03-24-2017 12:42 AM

Watco is very poor at UV protection. The Varnish they use is a urethane based varnish. To have true UV protection you will need an annilid type polymer of the poly ester type. The other commonly used UV absorbing polymers are too expensive and dangerous(carcinogenic). The most common one you can buy is Marine resin top coat from a boat store. Make sure it is the polyester type that says UV protected on the label. The engineer is right UV protectors protect by absorbing UV light. In other words they convert it into heat. The converted heat is then transferred to the wood underneath. If there is BLO in the wood below it will cook and further darken the finish and possibly delaminate it.
Best to use just the polyester as your finish. Annilids go on bluish but end up clear.
My $.02 anyway.

-- Illigitimii non carburundum sum

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