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How well do the Danish Oils w/UV protection work?

9K views 6 replies 5 participants last post by  pontic 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Hey everyone. I'm a new member, but have been doing some research to try to find a good way to UV protect my turned projects. I like to use Watco Danish Oil. As it is easy, gives a nice deep luster and not real time consuming. But the wood does darken and the luster goes dull after a while.

Has anyone used any of the Danish Oils with UV protection? i.e. Liberon Superior Danish Oil, Watco Exterior Wood Finish, or Bestwood Danish Oil UV, or some other one I have not found.

Suggestions for keeping things the same color and sheen>

Thanks,
John
 
#3 · (Edited by Moderator)
No experience with them either. But remember, UV protection works by absorbing the UV rays instead of reflecting them; and it's effectiveness is reduced over time. True marine spar varnishes (probably the best of the clear finishes relative to UV protection) are typically applied with several coats to help build this UV protection. Now, danish oil is nothing more than very thin varnish with some BLO added (normally) and the UV protection will be in the varnish component. So you're putting on a very thin coat of varnish and expecting it to absorb the UV effectively. Just a guess on my part, but it does not sound like win-win.
 
#5 ·
Thank-you for the comments.

I make mostly turnings that are kept inside. So the UV exposure would be indirect through the wiindows. But I have noticed that the colors have degraded over time as well as the sheen the piece once had.

Learning how to protect the original colors of exotic woods, or the beautiful color contrasts of spalting without having to cover them with other pigmented stains or thick film finishes would be great. But maybe this is not reasonable.

Thanks,
John.
 
#7 ·
Watco is very poor at UV protection. The Varnish they use is a urethane based varnish. To have true UV protection you will need an annilid type polymer of the poly ester type. The other commonly used UV absorbing polymers are too expensive and dangerous(carcinogenic).
The most common one you can buy is Marine resin top coat from a boat store. Make sure it is the polyester type that says UV protected on the label.
The engineer is right UV protectors protect by absorbing UV light. In other words they convert it into heat. The converted heat is then transferred to the wood underneath. If there is BLO in the wood below it will cook and further darken the finish and possibly delaminate it.
Best to use just the polyester as your finish. Annilids go on bluish but end up clear.
My $.02 anyway.
 
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