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Forum topic by Carloz posted 03-16-2017 05:30 AM 628 views 0 times favorited 9 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Carloz

979 posts in 430 days


03-16-2017 05:30 AM

It took me some time to remove dark spots on my table saw, which wax failed to prevent.
This time I used Boeshield T9. The instructions specifically mention table saws and I followed what is written there. However it has been 3 days and the stuff is still wet as if i just applied it. The temperature outside as 75F. What do I do wrong?


9 replies so far

View MrUnix's profile

MrUnix

6006 posts in 2037 days


#1 posted 03-16-2017 05:35 AM

Boeshield T9 is nothing more than really expensive paraffin wax dissolved in mineral spirits with a little bit of mineral oil thrown in. Most likely, it’s the mineral oil that is not evaporating off. Did you spray it on then wipe off the excess? BTW: Johnsons paste wax is essentially the same stuff (paraffin + some other waxes dissolved in Naptha) except for the mineral oil.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

View DirtyMike's profile

DirtyMike

637 posts in 740 days


#2 posted 03-16-2017 05:42 AM

I am thankful for Johnson and Johnson.

View HokieKen's profile

HokieKen

4515 posts in 977 days


#3 posted 03-16-2017 11:20 AM

I’ve used the Boeshield and didn’t see that it was worth they extra $. It doesn’t dry like paste wax, you spray it on and wipe off the excess. I thought it worked as well as, but no better than, paste wax. Only advantage I saw was that it was easier to apply. Johnson’s paste wax is what I use now for all my CI tables.

-- Kenny, SW VA, Go Hokies!!!

View rwe2156's profile

rwe2156

2716 posts in 1319 days


#4 posted 03-16-2017 03:19 PM

You have to leave it on for a few minutes then wipe it off.

The apply a second coat .

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

View DalyArcher's profile

DalyArcher

101 posts in 957 days


#5 posted 03-16-2017 05:11 PM

I’m a fan of Johnsons paste wax as well.

View Manitario's profile

Manitario

2564 posts in 2721 days


#6 posted 03-16-2017 05:50 PM

I’ve had the same problem with Boeshield. Not a fan.

-- Sometimes the creative process requires foul language. -- Charles Neil

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Carloz

979 posts in 430 days


#7 posted 03-16-2017 08:26 PM


I m a fan of Johnsons paste wax as well.

- DalyArcher


I was too before the cast iron top corroded in one week when I was away from home. Granted it was raining outside and the table corroded randomly. More on one of the wings than on the main table near the blade where I would expect it to wear through faster.

On the bright note t-9 Appeared to be far the best lubricant for a bicycle chain. The specialized stuff in bicycle shops is pretty expensive either so no throwing my T-9 into the trashcan and risking wrath from trash removal people.

View HorizontalMike's profile

HorizontalMike

7658 posts in 2752 days


#8 posted 03-16-2017 08:42 PM

The best way to apply JPW is to use a piece of 3-0 or 4-0 steel wool. The steel wool will work on lifting the surface rust, all while you are applying the JPW. Also, if you are having a hard time buffing JPW off, because you left it overnight, too long, too cold in shop, etc., re-applying with the steel wool makes it easy.

FWIW, I think I am still on my 2nd can of Johnson’s Paste Wax and it is STILL 1/2 full, even after 7 years of WW-ing. I guess at the current price of this stuff, I have probably spent 10-buck$ on this stuff, or about $1.43/year. I use most of it in the Texas Summers, when I drip sweat constantly if I am not directly in the path of a fan (I have6 or 7 in the shop). No AC but I do keep the air moving… ;-)

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

View OggieOglethorpe's profile

OggieOglethorpe

1276 posts in 1948 days


#9 posted 03-16-2017 10:47 PM

Along with bicycle chains, T-9 is also fantastic on r/v screw jacks and slide outs, as well as marine and aviation corrosion protection as was it’s original use. I think the 30+% non-hazardous part that doesn’t need to be identified on the MSDS is actually a bit more than wax, and the devil is in the proportions and details.

That said, I greatly prefer paste wax, Topcote, or CRC 3-36 on my machine tables and fences over T-9. In my experience, Trewax, Minwax, Liberon, or Goddards work just as well as Johnson, as long as you avoid tinted / colored versions, so whatever is easy to get locally is fine.

I get 3-36 locally cheap, so I use it a lot. It’s a also very good for removing built-up wax from metal surfaces.

I’ve had several occasions where machines got “hosed down”, an upper floor tub issued had my DJ-20 getting dripped on for a week, and my Sawstop ICS was the recipient of a steady stream of condensate at random times from a sweating mini-split a/c line. At the time, the only real protectant was a not so fresh application of 3-36, and nothing rusted, so I’m a believer in the stuff.

Avoid Briwax, as many versions are not your average paste wax.

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