Borshield never dries

  • Advertise with us

« back to Power Tools, Hardware and Accessories forum

Forum topic by Carloz posted 03-16-2017 05:30 AM 857 views 0 times favorited 9 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View Carloz's profile


1147 posts in 739 days

03-16-2017 05:30 AM

It took me some time to remove dark spots on my table saw, which wax failed to prevent.
This time I used Boeshield T9. The instructions specifically mention table saws and I followed what is written there. However it has been 3 days and the stuff is still wet as if i just applied it. The temperature outside as 75F. What do I do wrong?

9 replies so far

View MrUnix's profile


6943 posts in 2346 days

#1 posted 03-16-2017 05:35 AM

Boeshield T9 is nothing more than really expensive paraffin wax dissolved in mineral spirits with a little bit of mineral oil thrown in. Most likely, it’s the mineral oil that is not evaporating off. Did you spray it on then wipe off the excess? BTW: Johnsons paste wax is essentially the same stuff (paraffin + some other waxes dissolved in Naptha) except for the mineral oil.


-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

View DirtyMike's profile


637 posts in 1049 days

#2 posted 03-16-2017 05:42 AM

I am thankful for Johnson and Johnson.

View HokieKen's profile


6293 posts in 1286 days

#3 posted 03-16-2017 11:20 AM

I’ve used the Boeshield and didn’t see that it was worth they extra $. It doesn’t dry like paste wax, you spray it on and wipe off the excess. I thought it worked as well as, but no better than, paste wax. Only advantage I saw was that it was easier to apply. Johnson’s paste wax is what I use now for all my CI tables.

-- Kenny, SW VA, Go Hokies!!!

View rwe2156's profile


3092 posts in 1628 days

#4 posted 03-16-2017 03:19 PM

You have to leave it on for a few minutes then wipe it off.

The apply a second coat .

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

View DalyArcher's profile


115 posts in 1266 days

#5 posted 03-16-2017 05:11 PM

I’m a fan of Johnsons paste wax as well.

View Manitario's profile


2631 posts in 3030 days

#6 posted 03-16-2017 05:50 PM

I’ve had the same problem with Boeshield. Not a fan.

-- Sometimes the creative process requires foul language. -- Charles Neil

View Carloz's profile


1147 posts in 739 days

#7 posted 03-16-2017 08:26 PM

I m a fan of Johnsons paste wax as well.

- DalyArcher

I was too before the cast iron top corroded in one week when I was away from home. Granted it was raining outside and the table corroded randomly. More on one of the wings than on the main table near the blade where I would expect it to wear through faster.

On the bright note t-9 Appeared to be far the best lubricant for a bicycle chain. The specialized stuff in bicycle shops is pretty expensive either so no throwing my T-9 into the trashcan and risking wrath from trash removal people.

View HorizontalMike's profile


7770 posts in 3061 days

#8 posted 03-16-2017 08:42 PM

The best way to apply JPW is to use a piece of 3-0 or 4-0 steel wool. The steel wool will work on lifting the surface rust, all while you are applying the JPW. Also, if you are having a hard time buffing JPW off, because you left it overnight, too long, too cold in shop, etc., re-applying with the steel wool makes it easy.

FWIW, I think I am still on my 2nd can of Johnson’s Paste Wax and it is STILL 1/2 full, even after 7 years of WW-ing. I guess at the current price of this stuff, I have probably spent 10-buck$ on this stuff, or about $1.43/year. I use most of it in the Texas Summers, when I drip sweat constantly if I am not directly in the path of a fan (I have6 or 7 in the shop). No AC but I do keep the air moving… ;-)

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

View OggieOglethorpe's profile


1276 posts in 2257 days

#9 posted 03-16-2017 10:47 PM

Along with bicycle chains, T-9 is also fantastic on r/v screw jacks and slide outs, as well as marine and aviation corrosion protection as was it’s original use. I think the 30+% non-hazardous part that doesn’t need to be identified on the MSDS is actually a bit more than wax, and the devil is in the proportions and details.

That said, I greatly prefer paste wax, Topcote, or CRC 3-36 on my machine tables and fences over T-9. In my experience, Trewax, Minwax, Liberon, or Goddards work just as well as Johnson, as long as you avoid tinted / colored versions, so whatever is easy to get locally is fine.

I get 3-36 locally cheap, so I use it a lot. It’s a also very good for removing built-up wax from metal surfaces.

I’ve had several occasions where machines got “hosed down”, an upper floor tub issued had my DJ-20 getting dripped on for a week, and my Sawstop ICS was the recipient of a steady stream of condensate at random times from a sweating mini-split a/c line. At the time, the only real protectant was a not so fresh application of 3-36, and nothing rusted, so I’m a believer in the stuff.

Avoid Briwax, as many versions are not your average paste wax.

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics