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Forum topic by Maximal_dk posted 03-14-2017 03:07 PM 757 views 0 times favorited 15 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Maximal_dk

5 posts in 274 days


03-14-2017 03:07 PM

Topic tags/keywords: oak teak sanding sharpening question

How can I get spring wood to disappear???!!
I have tried with sulfuric acid. sandblasting. glassblasting.

https://s3.amazonaws.com/vs-lumberjocks.com/omsv0s0.jpg!

https://s3.amazonaws.com/vs-lumberjocks.com/omsv05n.jpg!


15 replies so far

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Lazyman

1503 posts in 1223 days


#1 posted 03-14-2017 04:39 PM

It is not clear to me what you are trying to do.

-- Nathan, TX -- Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.

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Snipes

150 posts in 2080 days


#2 posted 03-14-2017 06:06 PM

Is this similar to morning wood?

-- if it is to be it is up to me

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JADobson

919 posts in 1946 days


#3 posted 03-14-2017 07:10 PM

Is this what you are after?
http://www.finewoodworking.com/membership/pdf/20294/011256088.pdf from Fine Woodworking #256

-- No craft is very far from the line beyond which is magic. -- Lord Dunsany

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Maximal_dk

5 posts in 274 days


#4 posted 03-15-2017 07:30 AM

I need to find a way to remove the spring wood, so that there is deep joints in the wood, a way that the tree is going to look the same way as in the picture.
the depth of the tree is such that it would break when it was cut longitudinally.
it is the way to remove spring wood I seek. preferably the whole surface at one time
it is also interesting the image link , James.

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UpstateNYdude

900 posts in 1818 days


#5 posted 03-15-2017 01:17 PM



I need to find a way to remove the spring wood, so that there is deep joints in the wood, a way that the tree is going to look the same way as in the picture.
the depth of the tree is such that it would break when it was cut longitudinally.
it is the way to remove spring wood I seek. preferably the whole surface at one time
it is also interesting the image link , James.

- Maximal_dk

What is spring wood? Do you mean sap wood? I’m not being a jerk I just have no idea what you’re talking about and that picture you posted looks to be of a half chewed out log so that isn’t giving us much to go on either. Do you have a picture of the end product your trying to achieve?

-- Nick, “I am always doing what I cannot do yet, in order to learn how to do it.” – Vincent Van Gogh

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Maximal_dk

5 posts in 274 days


#6 posted 03-15-2017 07:02 PM

springwood.
the part of an annual ring of wood, characterized by large, thin-walled cells, formed during the first part of the growing season. Also called early wood.

The picture is the end product I’m trying to achieve.!

I put the same two pictures up again, however, more sharp.

https://s3.amazonaws.com/vs-lumberjocks.com/omve1tt.jpg!

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WDHLT15

1695 posts in 2311 days


#7 posted 03-15-2017 08:36 PM

The only way that I see to do it is manually with a tool like a dremel tool, or, possibly sandblasting the wood such that the softer earlywood is worn away. However, I suspect that sandblasting will only work with a softwood like pine where the earlywood is softer and less dense than the darker latewood. The difference is distinct in the softwoods, but not much in hardwoods. It would seem that a faster growing tree with a wide band of earlywood would be best. Will be tedious. Nature can create that , but it takes long years of weathering.

-- Danny Located in Perry, GA. Forester. Wood-Mizer LT40HD35 Sawmill. Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln. hamsleyhardwood.com

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diverlloyd

2332 posts in 1693 days


#8 posted 03-15-2017 08:50 PM

Wire wheel on a grinder.

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MrUnix

5990 posts in 2034 days


#9 posted 03-15-2017 08:57 PM

That Fine Woodworking article indicates it was done by sandblasting… but it also says it was turned to approx. 1/16” wall thickness while green, blasted, and then left to dry and warp naturally. Not sure if it would work on a large log like the one in question, particularly since it’s obviously no longer ‘green’ :)

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

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Hammerthumb

2795 posts in 1811 days


#10 posted 03-15-2017 09:07 PM

I have a friend that does this with sandblasting. It will work on woods that have distinct differences in early and late woods. ie. red oak, ash. Woods like maple will not work.

-- Paul, Las Vegas

View mahdee's profile

mahdee

3828 posts in 1603 days


#11 posted 03-16-2017 04:08 AM

Pour muriatic acid on it and pressure wash it. Wear appropriate gear.

-- earthartandfoods.com

View clin's profile

clin

751 posts in 831 days


#12 posted 03-16-2017 04:32 AM

I know nothing more about this than what is in this thread. But as mentioned GREEN wood. Is your wood green or dried?

If dried, I suspect the spring wood may have hardened enough that you can’t remove it easily. Just a guess.

-- Clin

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Maximal_dk

5 posts in 274 days


#13 posted 03-16-2017 09:32 AM

Mahdee : I will try with 37% muriatic acid on Monday. Muriatic acid is ordered.

WDHLT15 : glassblasting would be more effective, I think.

Diverlloyd : is not deep enough in springwood.

More information.
Came by this piece of oak last year in southern France. It’s probably some hundreds of years old, and have been exposed to the elements. Have the last 50 years have been the same place, in a place where there has been a lot of sun.
acid rain and sun have selt certainly helped to get the tree to look like it does. have tried with sulfuric acid, however, unsuccessfully.

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mahdee

3828 posts in 1603 days


#14 posted 03-16-2017 12:36 PM

Be sure to do it outdoors. The acid will eat up concrete (really clean it so while you are at it, clean the whole driveway) and this is not a one application deal. But it will eat up the softer wood rings faster than the hard ones. Best way to do it is to leave the acid on it until there are no more fumes (over night) then use a pressure washer at it highest setting. Leave it in the sun to dry and run your wire brush over it to remove dried up pulps and repeat if needed. Once you have the desired debt, get some steel wool and leave it in the acid over night and brush the filtered liquid on to get the grey, aged look. Vinegar and steel wool works the same but the wool may need to sit in it for a few days. Have some vinegar handy in case the acid get on your skin; the vinegar will neutralize it.

-- earthartandfoods.com

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Maximal_dk

5 posts in 274 days


#15 posted 03-17-2017 09:28 AM

Thanks mahdee.
Returns with the result after having tried it next week.

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