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Jig for Rabbeting

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Forum topic by RexInMinn posted 10-12-2010 10:06 PM 1663 views 0 times favorited 4 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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RexInMinn

17 posts in 1436 days


10-12-2010 10:06 PM

Topic tags/keywords: jig table saw picture frame rabbet

I’m interested in creating my own frame stock for picture frames.
The biggest challenge to my skill set is milling the rabbet the pieces need; the notch allows the frame to accept the glass, mat board and backing board. The problem is that the pieces are narrow and cutting the rabbet brings my fingers too close to the blade of my table saw for comfort. I’ve started trying to design my own jig to help deal with this, but I’m stymied. Anyone have anything to share on this?

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4 replies so far

View tbone's profile

tbone

256 posts in 2337 days


#1 posted 10-12-2010 11:16 PM

If you have a router table, then you can do it with a rabbeting bit. If not, then rabbet long boards on the table saw BEFORE you miter the corners.
Use featherboards and push sticks—and BE SAFE.

-- Kinky Friedman on gay marriage: "They should have the right to be just as miserable as the rest of us."

View Scott Bryan's profile

Scott Bryan

27251 posts in 2475 days


#2 posted 10-13-2010 01:49 AM

Rex, I will ditto tbone’s comment. Another thing that I do when ripping small stock is to use a jig. It consists simply of a saddle built out of 3/4” plywood on two sides and 1/4” hardboard on the third. The jig straddles my rip fence and the 1/4” hardboard has a 1/4 notch cut in the bottom. I use the jig as a push stick to move the stock past the blade by sliding it along my rip fence thereby keeping my fingers out of harms way.

-- Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful- Joshua Marine

View Jonnyfurniture's profile

Jonnyfurniture

59 posts in 1480 days


#3 posted 10-14-2010 03:21 AM

I just had to do this the other day. If you are making molding that has back bevels then cut a board that has the correct angle to support the molding to square it to the bit in the router table and set it the appropriete distance from the fence. If you are making flat stock then either the table saw or router table works. Easy on the router table. You will need an auxiliary fence for the table saw. Just a board you clamp to the fence to allow the dado blade to be partly under the saw fence. Just crank the blade up into the board and there you have it. A zero clearance fence.

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HerbC

1166 posts in 1512 days


#4 posted 10-14-2010 06:39 AM

Start with stock that is wide enough to make two strips of the moulding. Cut or rout the rabbet in both sides of the stock and then rip the stock to the correct width for the moulding.

HTH

Be Careful!

Herb

-- Herb, Florida - Here's why I close most messages with "Be Careful!" http://lumberjocks.com/HerbC/blog/17090

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