Issue:burn marks on ripped wood with table saw

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Forum topic by Southeast posted 03-12-2017 03:01 PM 1252 views 1 time favorited 9 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View Southeast's profile


7 posts in 681 days

03-12-2017 03:01 PM

Topic tags/keywords: purple hearts maple

Good morning,
I am making my first end grain cutting board with some nice Purple Heart and maple wood that was very expensive.

When I rip the wood using a ryobi table saw with the blade that was included, I get serious burn marks from the blade as I cut that marks the wood and damages it from the saw

I am not sure why it is doing this and what I am doing wrong. I am feeding the wood at a good rate into the saw using my fence not applying too much pressure.

Thanks in advance for any help and advice!

9 replies so far

View them700project's profile


134 posts in 1255 days

#1 posted 03-12-2017 03:08 PM

Is the blade relatively new? I find with some hard woods you may have to move through the blade faster than you think you need to.

View Kazooman's profile


1265 posts in 2188 days

#2 posted 03-12-2017 03:11 PM

Make certain that your fence is aligned with the blade (perhaps just a tiny bit wider at the rear of the blade) so that the piece is not pinched.

Get a SHARP RIP blade. The blade that came with the saw is probably a combination blade and is not ideal for ripping. A dull blade of any type will not cut well and will lead to burning.

If there is strain in the wood it can pinch down on the blade and that will result in burning. A riving knife or splitter on the blade guard can help with that.

Purpleheart is one of those woods that is quite prone to burning. You need to get a good blade and align your saw to get good results.

View knotscott's profile


8175 posts in 3612 days

#3 posted 03-12-2017 03:21 PM

Stock saw blades are notoriously poor quality, and you may find that it’s not really suitable for the task of thick ripping in dense material. In addition to getting the alignment spot on, get a decent 3/32” thin kerf 24T rip blade for ~ $30….Irwin Marples (not Irwin Marathon or Classic), or Freud Diablo D1024X, Freud Industrial LU87 (~ $39), or DeWalt DW7124PT Precision Trim. Keep it clean for best performance and longest edge life. It also helps a lot if the wood is flat and straight.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View Southeast's profile


7 posts in 681 days

#4 posted 03-12-2017 04:03 PM

Great advice thank you!
I am going to invest in a new blade. The one I was using is the stock blade that came with the ryobi table.
I had also removed the riving knife on the table, maybe this added to the problem. I thought it was more for kick back but possibly added to the friction on the wood.

I will add more speed to the ripping and double check my fence adjustment.

Appreciate the help! Mike

View knotscott's profile


8175 posts in 3612 days

#5 posted 03-12-2017 04:41 PM

The riving knife needs to be aligned with the blade, otherwise can contribute to resistance and burning. It’s fine to remove it to diagnose the burning issue, but it’d be good to reintroduce it eventually.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View JBrow's profile


1366 posts in 1156 days

#6 posted 03-13-2017 12:53 AM


If, after trying all the suggestions so far, burning continues to be a problem, the height of the saw blade could be set high. A high-set blade should run cooler than one set so that the bottom of the gullet is even with the upper surface of the work piece. If the blade is elevated well above the upper surface of the wood, it would be prudent to ensure the blade guard is installed.

Forrest explains this elevated blade idea at 1:58…

View dalepage's profile


380 posts in 1077 days

#7 posted 03-13-2017 01:32 AM

Make sure you have a good ripping blade. I use a Freud Glue Line Rip. It’s outstanding. If you will rip something slightly (1/16?) wider than you need, then make a last cut to get that 1/16th off, you’ll rip away any burn marks. I do the same thing when I chamfer hardwoods on the router table.

Also, I find rate of feed is really important and that burn marks, for me, usually happen if I stop the feed.

-- Dale

View shawnn's profile


131 posts in 1601 days

#8 posted 03-13-2017 09:03 PM

+1 on making two cuts with the final cut being less than the blade kerf. Also make sure you have the blade high enough that the gullet of the tooth clears the wood.

View DirtyMike's profile


637 posts in 1138 days

#9 posted 03-13-2017 09:10 PM

Stellar tips^^^^^^

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