new table saw and blade question

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Forum topic by jaydubya posted 10-10-2010 04:21 AM 1542 views 0 times favorited 7 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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183 posts in 2808 days

10-10-2010 04:21 AM

Just put my new table saw on layaway at sears. its a C-man 21833. 3 easy payments and it will be mine. All the reviews say the saw is great for a $500 saw (and i got a pretty good price on it, 425 before tax), but the blade it comes with is not fit to be put on a saw. I got a rebate for a free C-man professional 24t carbide ripping blade. Obviously ill want something finer as well, but will the craftsman do an acceptable job or should I make a clock out of it as well as the packed-in blade?

7 replies so far

View ChrisForthofer's profile


150 posts in 3063 days

#1 posted 10-10-2010 05:20 AM

I am of the opinion that a blade makes or breaks a saw. Even the best cabinet saw will be held back by a cheap blade. Its worth spending the money on a quality blade. I have no opinion on the craftsman blade as I have never used one. Freud has been my go to for a long while now. Just bought one of their premier fusion all purpose blades, was reviewed very well on boards and in magazines. Havent tried it yet but like the other 2 freuds I own I am sure I wont be disappointed.


-- -Director of slipshod craftsmanship and attention deficit woodworking

View smitty22's profile


714 posts in 2943 days

#2 posted 10-10-2010 05:55 AM

JW, The Freud 40T Diablo combination blade worked great on my 21833, super performance in ripping 2×4’s. It was noticably better than the furnished blade. The Freud was so good, I kept it when I sold the Craftsman.

-- Smitty

View jaydubya's profile


183 posts in 2808 days

#3 posted 10-10-2010 06:17 AM

Thank you guys. the craftsman professional blades seem to be getting good reviews. I think Ill be picking up a freud diablo 50t combo blade and an 80t fine finish blade so Ill have the gamut (24, 50, 80) good thing is I have a 10 inch sliding miter saw, so the blades will be multipurpose. think the boss(wife) will buy that one? Smitty, mind if I ask why you sold the 21833 saw?

View Chriskmb5150's profile


253 posts in 3072 days

#4 posted 10-10-2010 04:08 PM

I had the same saw but returned it. The blade wouldn’t stay aligned throughout the range of height adjustment.
see my post here:

-- Woodworkers theory of relativity - the quality of your scrap is relative to your skill level

View knotscott's profile (online now)


8009 posts in 3372 days

#5 posted 10-10-2010 04:42 PM

The 24T blade that you’ve got coming appears to be made by Freud in Italy, and is a thin kerf blade….likely in the 3/32” range. It’s very comparable to the former Freud TK/Avanti line that’s been discontinued (don’t confuse that line with the Chinese knockoff “Avanti” and “Avanti Pro” line that HD is now selling…those are not by Freud and are mediocre blades at best). It should be a pretty good rip blade, but won’t crosscut well, and won’t leave a particularly smooth edge… it may be smooth enough for glue up as is, but you’re going to want to add a smoother cutting blade to compliment it. A 1/8” full kerf blade is 33% thicker than a 3/32” thin kerf blade, and adds more strain on your saw, more noise, and more saw dust. If you stick with the higher quality blades, a good thin kerf will work very well. In recent years the technology of TK blades has advanced a lot, and several magazines have been found them to work comparably to good full kerf blades…Fine Woodworking, Popular Woodworking, Wood, American Woodworker, and others. You shouldn’t even need a stabilizer unless there’s some runout or vibration caused by the saw. It’s important to be sure that the blade mates well with the stock riving knife on your saw…most 3/32” TKs or 1/8” full kerf blades should work well with it. Because your saw is left tilt, the 0” reference on the tape measure may get thrown off by different blade kerf thicknesses…better to pick one kerf width and try to stick with it. The saw’s end performance is heavily influenced by blade choice and proper setup, so be picky about both factors. You’ll get better cuts if the lumber you use is straight and flat, which typically means it needs to be worked on a jointer and/or planer, hand plane or other work around to flatten and straighten.

Companies like Ridge Carbide, Infinity, Forrest, CMT, and Freud offer some excellent TK choices. You might want to read up on picking saw blades to decide which direction to head with them. The Infinity 010-060 Hi-ATB 60T is excellent and would be a super compliments to your 24T ripper….the 60T is an excellent blade for plywood, sheetgoods, and fine crosscuts in hardwoods, but will also rip efficiently enough to leave very clean edges in 1” to 5/4” material, so will serve extremely well as a general purpose blade with a hint of specialty blade performance. Then you can switch to the 24T for heavier ripping. Other great choices are the Forrest WWII 40T TK or WWI Hi-ATB 60T, Ridge Carbide TS2000TK, 50T Infinity Combomax Lite (010-150), Freud Premier Fusion TK, Freud Industrial LU88 60T or LU86 40T, or CMT 214.040.10 40T or 50T 216.050.10.

You might want to look into a precision aftermarket miter gauge at some point. The Incra V27 is a very nice gauge for ~ $50. There are more great choices in the $100 range.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View smitty22's profile


714 posts in 2943 days

#6 posted 10-10-2010 09:55 PM

Jay, same problem as noted by Chris in #4 above. The saw was a nightmare. There is extensive discussion of this saw in the ‘reviews’ section, several experienced identical problem, some had good luck with the saw.
Here’s my review:

Great blade breakdown by Scott, take it to the bank, or better yet, the store!
An Incra miter gauge also ended up on my 21833, kept it when the saw sold.

-- Smitty

View Bill White's profile

Bill White

4929 posts in 3956 days

#7 posted 10-11-2010 04:04 PM

I hope that you won’t be unhappy with the C’man saw. Freud blades are on my Grizz TS, C’man RAS, DeWalt MS. ‘Nough said?


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