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Best way to cut this notch ??

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Forum topic by NBeener posted 10-09-2010 11:23 PM 3447 views 0 times favorited 16 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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NBeener

4806 posts in 1840 days


10-09-2010 11:23 PM

Howdy !

So … since the wedges are done … it’s time to turn my attention to the false tenons for the Tapered Display Tower:

Obviously, the outer cuts, chamfer, and edge taper are pretty straight forward (lucky for me !), but …

What’s the best way to take that 3/4” bite out of the bottom-center of each of these false tenons ?

My initial thoughts:

1) Individually

..a) Router table – 3/4” straight bit
..b) Router table – 3/8” straight bit x two passes
..c) Table saw – dado stack – 3/8” x two passes
..d) Nibble away at them, a kerf at a time, on either the BS or the TS with regular blade

2) Bunch them all together, clamp them up, and THEN do one of the above

Am I getting warm, or … missing a better way, entirely ?

Thanks … as always :-)

There are eight of them.

-- -- Neil


16 replies so far

View Dick, & Barb Cain's profile

Dick, & Barb Cain

8693 posts in 2965 days


#1 posted 10-09-2010 11:44 PM

I’d measure out the total length of the board plus the width of the saw cuts, then mark where each tenon cut should be.

Then cut your notches, & then cut each false tenon to length.

That way it’ll be safer while cutting the notches.

You can use any of the tools you mentioned.

-- -** You are never to old to set another goal or to dream a new dream ****************** Dick, & Barb Cain, Hibbing, MN. http://www.woodcarvingillustrated.com/gallery/member.php?uid=3627&protype=1

View NBeener's profile

NBeener

4806 posts in 1840 days


#2 posted 10-09-2010 11:46 PM

Lemme’ throw in another possibility….

Since the templates are already cut out AND affixed to the stock … I COULD run two passes with my benchtop mortiser, using a 3/8” hollow-chisel mortising bit, BEFORE cutting the tenons out of the board. In other words, just punch eight holes IN the board, and then cut out the tenons….

Thoughts ?

And … thanks for the input, so far :-)

-- -- Neil

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NBeener

4806 posts in 1840 days


#3 posted 10-09-2010 11:49 PM

OhByTheWay: the width of the stock was specified as matching the WIDTH of the tenons.

That means that the “notch” to be cut … is in the dead center of the length of the board … NOT on the edge OF the board.

... if that makes sense…..

-- -- Neil

View Dick, & Barb Cain's profile

Dick, & Barb Cain

8693 posts in 2965 days


#4 posted 10-10-2010 12:07 AM

I was just going to mention that what I told you would be wrong, because you want the end grain.

Sorry about that, but I’d use the dado blade for the notches.

The false tenons must be cut to follow the angle of the tower sides too I guess?

-- -** You are never to old to set another goal or to dream a new dream ****************** Dick, & Barb Cain, Hibbing, MN. http://www.woodcarvingillustrated.com/gallery/member.php?uid=3627&protype=1

View PurpLev's profile

PurpLev

8476 posts in 2315 days


#5 posted 10-10-2010 12:42 AM

table saw + dado blade, cut almost to full height but leave a 1/16 – clean if off with a chisel to get a nice crisp and even line. FYI – you only need the visible line to be clean and even, the inside of the notch can be rough.

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

View JJohnston's profile

JJohnston

1580 posts in 1957 days


#6 posted 10-10-2010 12:48 AM

Well, heck, if it’s a false tenon, why cut the notch at all? Why not just cut the middle third (or thereabouts) out of each wedge, glue the upper and lower thirds to the top and bottom of the false tenon, and glue the whole assembly onto the side of the tower?

-- "Sorry I'm late. Somebody tampered with my brakes." "You should have been early, then."

View NBeener's profile

NBeener

4806 posts in 1840 days


#7 posted 10-10-2010 01:18 AM

Some great answers. Many thanks !

What I finally did, and—of course—how I learned a valuable lesson:

I punched them out in two 3/8” passes on the mortiser.

The problem ?

I realized, after the first pass was done, that the pine gave tremendous tear-out, on the back side—too much to sand down. It was … ugly.

So … when I finished them all (no going back) ... I simply sliced them nearly in half. They’re now about 60% of the specified thickness.

Should have listened :rolleyes:

In truth, though, they look pretty good. I WILL glue them, when attaching them. I’ll glue the wedge to the inside of the false tenon.

No harm, no foul :-)

So … yeah: next time, I think the dado, leaving a sixteenth, and the chisel is the right way to go !

-- -- Neil

View Howie's profile

Howie

2656 posts in 1589 days


#8 posted 10-10-2010 01:29 AM

Use a backing board on the mortiser and that should take care of the blowout.(worked on the new tv show for Tommy)

-- Life is good.

View NBeener's profile

NBeener

4806 posts in 1840 days


#9 posted 10-10-2010 01:33 AM

Howie:

RIGHT AFTER I noticed the blowout, “backer board” was the first thing that came to mind.

I NEED to spend more time thinking, and less time cutting ;-)

-- -- Neil

View Beginningwoodworker's profile

Beginningwoodworker

13342 posts in 2339 days


#10 posted 10-10-2010 01:35 AM

I would use the Table Saw and Dado Blade, Neil.

-- CJIII Future cabinetmaker

View grizzman's profile

grizzman

7036 posts in 1969 days


#11 posted 10-10-2010 01:46 AM

well here is a real big monkey in the works….why not go back and make it all real ..have real mortise and tenon’s…oooppss… i forgot…a pattern…well the other way , and this is more of getting really close to the wood here…but…sprinkle some cinnamon and sugar on there and notch it out with those two front teeth…:){ i think the taste of pine would be about as American as one could get…now i have heard that a certain person likes to mix there cereal’s , so you have the pine…why not make the wedges out of some brilliant hardwood…like mahogany..have that really cool look…....well ive scattered enough debris around here ..i guess i will wander back into my grizz cave..and leave this work to the pro’s…....[’’’’‘]

-- GRIZZMAN ...[''''']

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grizzman

7036 posts in 1969 days


#12 posted 10-10-2010 02:00 AM

however i do like what jorgeG said and do it with a saw and chisel..i really do love to cut wood with a nice sharp hand saw…get ya a board and do some practice…and here is a question…do we all own hand saw’s…..and how often do we use them…a fun skill to learn….grizz

-- GRIZZMAN ...[''''']

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NBeener

4806 posts in 1840 days


#13 posted 10-10-2010 02:57 AM

Alright.

Now that I got some dinner in me, this one IS a do-over :-( It’s too easy a fix NOT to do it “right.”

What I’ll do is cut the next piece of stock so that the notch IS pointing at the edge of the wood. Then, I WILL use the dado. That way, I can push a fairly long piece of wood over the blade.

I just didn’t like the idea of pushing small, individual pieces over the dado, free-handed. Seemed pretty risky.

And … Grizz ... I DO like the idea of a mixed wood, though I’ll have to really think about what works best—especially if I can pull it from existing scrap (, and not buy more).

There should BE plenty of the mahogany left, so that might be the right call.

I do NOT have a decent hand saw (may need to get one). I have what appears to be a miter saw, from my dad, but it’s not in great condition. Even cleaned up, it’s just not entirely straight.

All I really have to do is print eight more copies of the page in the first post. No big deal….

Thanks, All !

-- -- Neil

View Jim Bertelson's profile

Jim Bertelson

3666 posts in 1830 days


#14 posted 10-10-2010 03:56 PM

I would probably make a throw-away jig from some plywood or MDF that would hold the piece and then run them over the dado one at a time. That’s one thing scraps are good for…............

Jim

-- Jim, Anchorage Alaska

View Peter Oxley's profile

Peter Oxley

1426 posts in 2541 days


#15 posted 10-10-2010 04:32 PM

The article in Wood suggests cutting them with a bandsaw. I think I’d be tempted to use a dado stack or the mortising machine (with a backer board!).

-- http://www.peteroxley.com -- http://north40studios.etsy.com --

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