Jewelry box

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Forum topic by Dez posted 10-08-2010 11:54 PM 1231 views 0 times favorited 8 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View Dez's profile


1166 posts in 4318 days

10-08-2010 11:54 PM

Topic tags/keywords: question oak veneering carving joining shaping design proportions

A jewelry box for my little sister is on my list.
White oak, some quartersawn I think.

Should be fun at 1/4 scale!
Overall size will be 11” wide x 9” high and 6” deep at the ends.
A lot of planning will be needed as at this scale some parts will be too small to be stable, like the rails between the drawers – 1/4”, even as part of a web or dust panel. The small size of the applied carvings and sizing the parts for the mirror as well should prove to be fun – or a real headache!
Any advice/comments will be welcome. I have built small stuff before but this is a little more involved than a small box!
I have a feeling that this will take me quite a while what with trips to a buddy’s shop to use some of his tools, the design stage and milling the materials.
I think I will try to buy some materials the thickness that I need rather than planing oak to 1/2” and 1/4”.

-- Folly ever comes cloaked in opportunity!

8 replies so far

View grizzman's profile


7836 posts in 3544 days

#1 posted 10-09-2010 02:30 AM

that will be a great project…have fun and i look forward to seeing the done project…maybe a shot with your sister and her new jewelry box…...grizzman

-- GRIZZMAN ...[''''']

View TopamaxSurvivor's profile


18425 posts in 3916 days

#2 posted 10-09-2010 04:11 AM

I hate planing away good wood too. You could buy 3/4 if you can’t get 1/4 and resaw and plane. wouldn’t be wasting half of it, only 1/3 :-))

-- Bob in WW ~ "some old things are lovely, warm still with life ... of the forgotten men who made them." - D.H. Lawrence

View Dez's profile


1166 posts in 4318 days

#3 posted 10-09-2010 04:19 AM

Thanks grizz, and I will see if I can talk sis into posing for us. :-)
Topamax – Better than 1/2 for sure and yes I too hate wasting wood.
Speaking of which tomorrow I need to go re-stack my lumber where I store it at my daughters house. Its getting wet around here and her pups haven’t done the lumber pile any good what with their climbing on top of it and all.

-- Folly ever comes cloaked in opportunity!

View studie's profile


618 posts in 3387 days

#4 posted 10-09-2010 07:43 AM

OK then, to make that front profile; make a jig to laminate thin strips in a full front glue up section then cut all pieces after its dry? I have read that liquid fabric softener can make bending wood easier than steaming. That should be a cool box, looking to see it!

-- $tudie

View Dez's profile


1166 posts in 4318 days

#5 posted 10-09-2010 10:53 AM

I figured just that for the drawer fronts! I will use a full dust panel type divider (frame and panel) rather than an open web to make it a little stiffer.
I hadn’t heard about the fabric softener for bending wood. I have used HOT water and a soak tank with thin strips – 1/8” or so, and clamped them in a form.

-- Folly ever comes cloaked in opportunity!

View richgreer's profile


4541 posts in 3315 days

#6 posted 10-09-2010 04:32 PM

You never explicitly said it, but I assume you are making a 1/4 version of the dresser you pictured. That should be a great (and challenging) project.

As an FYI – There is a product called “Veneer Softener” made by Pro Glue that works very well at making very thin wood bendable. I don’t know if it is better than fabric softener since I haven’t tried that. I know it works quite well. I’ve had a bottle quite a while and I do not remember where I got it.

-- Rich, Cedar Rapids, IA - I'm a woodworker. I don't create beauty, I reveal it.

View ND2ELK's profile


13495 posts in 4014 days

#7 posted 10-09-2010 04:51 PM

You can get Pro Glue Veneer Softener from Woodcraft.

-- Mc Bridge Cabinets, Iowa

View Dez's profile


1166 posts in 4318 days

#8 posted 10-10-2010 06:35 AM

Rich – You are correct – built to 1/4 scale! Challenging is a mere word, considering I no longer have a shop, so to speak! I believe that all of this other than basic dimensioning can be done with hand tools. ( I no longer have the ability to do that much planing physically!)
I may have to make some special scrapers etc for the profiles but at least I do not have to make the hardware!
I am thinking a single lock on the middle (second) drawer and a mechanical assembly to lock the rest. Four purchased locks, and this small, = $$!

ND2ELK – I am a cheapskate!
I will probably try the softener if I do any thing other than hot water/thin pieces glued up in a form and all that (spring-back accounted for) and cut the top accordingly!
In some ways it will be built like the old pieces except for the fact that I have plywood available and will use it to help eliminate wood movement.
Some of these older pieces had a veneered top which I will try to avoid by using built up solid wood.
In several places I plan to use ply and veneer where they used solid wood. While I will still try to use tenon and mortise where they did I may have to rely on shallow dadoes and glue
I am an over thinker sometimes so I will scan my sketches/drawings with notes and ask for feed back long before I start the actual build!
All input will be read…....and possibly debated, if not used OR appreciated! :-)~
Perhaps my design and input can be used by others!
(Don’t do what that dummy did!)

-- Folly ever comes cloaked in opportunity!

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