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Lost on what to do - top coat/project suggestions for a noob

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Forum topic by livesinaparadox posted 03-06-2017 03:20 AM 1690 views 0 times favorited 6 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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livesinaparadox

2 posts in 281 days


03-06-2017 03:20 AM

Topic tags/keywords: clear top coat finish question

I’ve never painted furniture, and I’m not a crafty person. I bought a dining table on Craigslist, and it’s one of those Ikea-type tables, where I think it’s particleboard, and felt like painting it. So, I bought some spray paint and went at it, and quickly felt like I did something wrong, so my extensive research started in hindsight. I realized that I shouldn’t have even started this project, but here I am.

Anyway, my first problem – I didn’t prime the table. I cleaned it, but didn’t prime – and it’s a very smooth surface.. Everything I’ve researched is pointing to redoing the table w/ primer, but considering this is a not a high quality table, I reallyyyy don’t want to.

Second, I used a glittery, metallic spray paint. Here’s the paint: http://www.krylon.com/products/shimmer-metallic/ (candy razz – don’t judge) – it’s a modified alkyd. Every coat would leave a glittery, dusty layer of residue after drying – like it was the excess spray settling on the table. Of course, I wiped the leftover residue before each coat, but feels like more will come off. Found out that all high-traffic pieces absolutely need a top coat, plus I don’t want pink glitter on me every time I eat. Unfortunately after calling Krylon, a top coat will dull the color, plus they never tested any top coat to know if it’ll have a adverse effect with the paint. They said this paint is not meant to have a top coat or even meant for furniture, even though there’s a picture of a chair on the can.

So, 2 questions.

1) Would a top coat even prevent from chipping and damage, without a primer on the base? If not, ignore the 2nd question.

2) Is it even worth trying a top coat, if so, what kind? With all the products and opinions out there, I can’t figure out what would be best, if at all, however, I’m willing to try. I bought miniwax polycrylic, but I’m thinking maybe an epoxy resin would be better, but seems complicated for a noob. Looking for something that will keep the color, protect the paint, contain the glittery-ness, not amber, so-easy-anyone-can-do-it application, and not have an adverse effect on the paint. (I don’t even know if that exists, and I know it’s asking a lot.)

Thank you to anyone willing to give positive suggestions to what seems like a doomed project.


6 replies so far

View Lazyman's profile

Lazyman

1497 posts in 1221 days


#1 posted 03-06-2017 03:59 AM

Many Ikea and other cheap mass produced “furniture” have a plastic laminate surface and some even have a vinyl film almost like Contact paper, often with a fake wood grain instead of wood or even a wood veneer. Often the only wood is the saw dust used to make the partical board. If that is the case, you will need to look at the paint label and see if it is recommended for painting plastic and followm the directions.

-- Nathan, TX -- Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.

View becikeja's profile

becikeja

823 posts in 2647 days


#2 posted 03-06-2017 11:05 AM

I agree with Lazyman, I have painted Ikea furniture before and the issue is adhesion of the paint to the surface. Make sure the paint will adhere to plastic. Then find a clear spray on top coat from a hobby store rated for plastic as well. I can’t remember what I used it was several years ago, but it did work.

-- Don't outsmart your common sense

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

4756 posts in 2327 days


#3 posted 03-06-2017 12:18 PM

Just a note about (agree with what was said above) the”Found out that all high-traffic pieces absolutely need a top coat”. Not true, a really good quality paint will be just as durable as anything you put on top of it.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

View bonesbr549's profile

bonesbr549

1445 posts in 2900 days


#4 posted 03-06-2017 12:44 PM



Just a note about (agree with what was said above) the”Found out that all high-traffic pieces absolutely need a top coat”. Not true, a really good quality paint will be just as durable as anything you put on top of it.

- Fred Hargis

I agree, but is the cost of this piece going to warrant the effort. Now, I heard the word Krylon and cringed. I’d use a good primer and then a good quality paint and you should be good.

I come back to if its chip board I’d either put a top coat to try and cover it, or write it up to experience and chuck it.

-- Sooner or later Liberals run out of other people's money.

View livesinaparadox's profile

livesinaparadox

2 posts in 281 days


#5 posted 03-07-2017 05:19 AM

Yes Lazyman, it’s exactly one of those fake wood grain tops. Unfortunately, the paint isn’t made for plastic, and it’s already on there. :/

Fred/bonesbr549 – from the feel of the paint, it doesn’t seem like it’s going to be very durable. Not sure if the cost of the piece warrants the effort of a top coat either, and really close to chalking it up to be a learning experience.

Still looking for top coat suggestions that won’t dull the shimmer color, since part of me just wants to finish this project.

View Lazyman's profile

Lazyman

1497 posts in 1221 days


#6 posted 03-07-2017 01:16 PM

If you go to the link you provided above and click on the Q&A tab, one of the questions answered was whether there is a clear top coat suitable for this paint. They said

At this time, we do not offer a clear coating that can be used over the Metallic aerosols effectively. You will lose the “metallic” appearance when clear coating the Shimmer Metallic. Generally clear coatings dull or mute the metallic brilliance of the metallic coating.

And since adhesion to the plastic is the problem, I doubt that a top cot would do much to protect the finish anyway.

-- Nathan, TX -- Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.

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