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Forum topic by Bobmedic posted 03-06-2017 01:08 AM 978 views 1 time favorited 35 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Bobmedic

375 posts in 2637 days


03-06-2017 01:08 AM

For the last several years I’ve been using Titebond 3. It’s been a great glue. Just the other day, I needed to buy a gallon and noticed that the Titebond 3 is 13 dollars a gallon more than Titebond 2. I just couldn’t justify the extra money since 99% of my projects aren’t outdoor projects or anything that would need to be waterproof. What are your favorite glues to use for general purpose?


35 replies so far

View jmartel's profile

jmartel

7520 posts in 1985 days


#1 posted 03-06-2017 01:09 AM

I’ve switched to primarily using hide glue. Either liquid or hot hide glue.

-- The quality of one's woodworking is directly related to the amount of flannel worn.

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Loren

9612 posts in 3483 days


#2 posted 03-06-2017 01:11 AM

I use Titebond 2 Extend because I have a heat
press and it works with that, but prior I would
just use Elmer’s white glue or whatever. I like
white glue better than yellow generally because
it tends to be formulated with longer open times
which allows more time in complicated assemblies.

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Bobmedic

375 posts in 2637 days


#3 posted 03-06-2017 01:12 AM



I ve switched to primarily using hide glue. Either liquid or hot hide glue.

- jmartel


What are the advantages/disadvantages of hide glue? I’ve never used it. Longer open time?

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Marn64

295 posts in 621 days


#4 posted 03-06-2017 01:17 AM

I don’t do many outdoor projects but let me give you a tip on glue from a luthier’s standpoint, and trust me, instrument makers are picky about glues. I used Titebond III for my first guitar and immediately was told by several experienced instrument makers that it was a bad choice. Titebond III creeps, and it creeps bad under stresses. These days I use Titebond I or hide glue. Titebond III is best for laminate archery bows and outdoor projects that need that much strength, it is difficult to undo joints made of it and frankly it’s strength is unnecessary for 90% of projects. Just my 2 cents.

-- Benjamin, Milwaukee

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Bobmedic

375 posts in 2637 days


#5 posted 03-06-2017 01:17 AM


I use Titebond 2 Extend because I have a heat
press and it works with that, but prior I would
just use Elmer s white glue or whatever. I like
white glue better than yellow generally because
it tends to be formulated with longer open times
which allows more time in complicated assemblies.

- Loren


That’s interesting, I haven’t used white glue since grade school. Good to know about the extended open time. I tried urethane glue ONCE! Definitely not a fan of that stuff. I’m sure it has it’s applications but all it did for me was make a huge foamy mess.

View Marn64's profile

Marn64

295 posts in 621 days


#6 posted 03-06-2017 01:18 AM

I ve switched to primarily using hide glue. Either liquid or hot hide glue.

- jmartel

What are the advantages/disadvantages of hide glue? I’ve never used it. Longer open time?
- Bobmedic


hot hide glue tacks up in about 40 seconds, and I would suggest working under a heat lamp to keep your work time a little longer. It cannot creep and it is great stuff if you work fast.

-- Benjamin, Milwaukee

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jmartel

7520 posts in 1985 days


#7 posted 03-06-2017 01:20 AM


What are the advantages/disadvantages of hide glue? I’ve never used it. Longer open time?

- Bobmedic

Hot hide glue has a way shorter open time. Liquid hide glue has a longer open time. The benefits are that it is reversible if you mess something up, doesn’t creep, easily repairable (don’t need to scrape out old glue, just add new glue and reassemble). Hot glue tacks fast so you can do a rub-joint and set it aside for later.

It makes veneering way easier. You can Hammer veneer it, and you can reverse it if the veneer doesn’t sit perfectly or has bubbles the first time. You can also heat up a metal plate (I have a 1/8” aluminum plate that I heat up on a camping propane grill) and set it on top of the veneer to help extend the open time of hot hide glue so that you can take longer to clamp it all up.

-- The quality of one's woodworking is directly related to the amount of flannel worn.

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Bobmedic

375 posts in 2637 days


#8 posted 03-06-2017 01:21 AM



I don t do many outdoor projects but let me give you a tip on glue from a luthier s standpoint, and trust me, instrument makers are picky about glues. I used Titebond III for my first guitar and immediately was told by several experienced instrument makers that it was a bad choice. Titebond III creeps, and it creeps bad under stresses. These days I use Titebond I or hide glue. Titebond III is best for laminate archery bows and outdoor projects that need that much strength, it is difficult to undo joints made of it and frankly it s strength is unnecessary for 90% of projects. Just my 2 cents.

- Marn64


What do you mean “creeps” I’ve not heard that terminology before?

View Marn64's profile

Marn64

295 posts in 621 days


#9 posted 03-06-2017 01:22 AM


I don t do many outdoor projects but let me give you a tip on glue from a luthier s standpoint, and trust me, instrument makers are picky about glues. I used Titebond III for my first guitar and immediately was told by several experienced instrument makers that it was a bad choice. Titebond III creeps, and it creeps bad under stresses. These days I use Titebond I or hide glue. Titebond III is best for laminate archery bows and outdoor projects that need that much strength, it is difficult to undo joints made of it and frankly it s strength is unnecessary for 90% of projects. Just my 2 cents.

- Marn64

What do you mean “creeps” I’ve not heard that terminology before?

- Bobmedic


It deforms under stress, it makes the joint will either drift or it will look like little beads of wet glue are coming out, but it is dry.

-- Benjamin, Milwaukee

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Bobmedic

375 posts in 2637 days


#10 posted 03-06-2017 01:26 AM


I don t do many outdoor projects but let me give you a tip on glue from a luthier s standpoint, and trust me, instrument makers are picky about glues. I used Titebond III for my first guitar and immediately was told by several experienced instrument makers that it was a bad choice. Titebond III creeps, and it creeps bad under stresses. These days I use Titebond I or hide glue. Titebond III is best for laminate archery bows and outdoor projects that need that much strength, it is difficult to undo joints made of it and frankly it s strength is unnecessary for 90% of projects. Just my 2 cents.

- Marn64

What do you mean “creeps” I’ve not heard that terminology before?

- Bobmedic

It deforms under stress, it makes the joint will either drift or it will look like little beads of wet glue are coming out, but it is dry.

- Marn64


Wow, I didn’t know that. Is it the elasticity or creeping that makes it strong? Like the example you gave of the laminate bow. Seems like there would be a lot of stress in that situation.

View DirtyMike's profile

DirtyMike

637 posts in 737 days


#11 posted 03-06-2017 01:29 AM

Tirebond 2 is my choice over 3, Check out steve ramseys video on the subject. we both had the same problems with 3.

View Loren's profile

Loren

9612 posts in 3483 days


#12 posted 03-06-2017 01:32 AM

yeah. Creep is another issue with some of the
yellow glues. I’ve seen it in some of my own
early work and that’s another reason I lean
towards white glues for indoor work… they
seem to cure more brittle and hard.

If I want a real hard glue I use plastic resin
glue, sold in powder form. It’s great
for laminations.

View Marn64's profile

Marn64

295 posts in 621 days


#13 posted 03-06-2017 01:40 AM

I don t do many outdoor projects but let me give you a tip on glue from a luthier s standpoint, and trust me, instrument makers are picky about glues. I used Titebond III for my first guitar and immediately was told by several experienced instrument makers that it was a bad choice. Titebond III creeps, and it creeps bad under stresses. These days I use Titebond I or hide glue. Titebond III is best for laminate archery bows and outdoor projects that need that much strength, it is difficult to undo joints made of it and frankly it s strength is unnecessary for 90% of projects. Just my 2 cents.

- Marn64

What do you mean “creeps” I’ve not heard that terminology before?

- Bobmedic

It deforms under stress, it makes the joint will either drift or it will look like little beads of wet glue are coming out, but it is dry.

- Marn64

Wow, I didn’t know that. Is it the elasticity or creeping that makes it strong? Like the example you gave of the laminate bow. Seems like there would be a lot of stress in that situation.

- Bobmedic


I am no bow expert, only that it is the preferred glue for laminate bows, I believe it does has more elasticity than other aliphatic resin glues, and that is why it is preferred in bows. I have heard of creep in bows, and it may very well be that you eventually have to redo bow laminates, but again, I am no expert.

-- Benjamin, Milwaukee

View Rick_M's profile

Rick_M

10612 posts in 2215 days


#14 posted 03-06-2017 01:48 AM

TB3 shrinks and turns dark

I prefer TB 1 or any plain yellow glue. Elmer’s wood glue if you want a fast tack, that stuff grabs right now.

-- http://thewoodknack.blogspot.com/

View TheFridge's profile

TheFridge

8292 posts in 1321 days


#15 posted 03-06-2017 04:52 AM

TB3 will definitely creep. I’ve went to HHG for many things kept indoors. Perfect for small things like jewelry boxes and whatnot. Especially in places where you don’t want to resand and plane after gluing.

Still use tb3 for just about everything but I just use HHG whenever I can.

I got some OBG but haven’t had a chance to use it yet. It would be perfect for dovetail glue ups on wide casework or structures with multiple tenons that need gluing at once.

Cleans up with a damp rag.doesnt affect finishes.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

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