LumberJocks

Ripping 1-3/4" cherry don't have a rip blade

  • Advertise with us

« back to Woodworking Skill Share forum

Forum topic by Michigander posted 03-01-2017 04:45 PM 1848 views 1 time favorited 16 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View Michigander's profile

Michigander

220 posts in 2256 days


03-01-2017 04:45 PM

Topic tags/keywords: ripping thick cherry rip blade vs general purpose

I need to rip about 10 pieces of cherry 1-3/4” thick and 70” long. My general purpose blade broke so I need to buy a new blade. I don’t do enough thick ripping to justify a special purpose ripping blade, so am thinking to get a new general purpose blade. I’d like a flat tooth configuration to handle tenons and I have a thin kurf crosscut blade for crosscuts. I am partial to Frued, but am open to all suggestions. I don’t have a jointer or planer so I need to get a glue ready surface. This is for a table top and bench project.
Thanks for your help.
John


16 replies so far

View waho6o9's profile

waho6o9

8029 posts in 2413 days


#1 posted 03-01-2017 05:04 PM

View rwe2156's profile

rwe2156

2714 posts in 1317 days


#2 posted 03-01-2017 05:31 PM

Get the Freud glue line rip you won’t regret it.

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

View DalyArcher's profile

DalyArcher

101 posts in 956 days


#3 posted 03-01-2017 05:32 PM

I don’t think you will get a true flat grind blade outside of a ripping blade. I have a freud combination blade which has a flat raker tooth, but the 4 other teeth I believe are ATB and those leave the little bat ears on a groove setup. I think a good ripping blade is worthwhile investment if for nothing else than to get nice, clean flat bottoms when building shaker style doors.

View JayT's profile

JayT

5453 posts in 2048 days


#4 posted 03-01-2017 06:02 PM

I wouldn’t try ripping cherry that thick with a combination blade, it’s a recipe for burning the wood and a real workout for the saw (and you). Do you really want to sacrifice the quality of the project over the cost of a saw blade? If you bite the bullet and buy a rip blade, with the crosscut you’ve already got, you will be set up for most situations.

rwe’s suggestion of the Glue Line Rip blade is a good one and would be my first choice. It uses a Triple Chip Grind, so will get you a nearly flat cut for tenons, too.

Another option to consider would be an inexpensive, but good quality rip blade. The Diablo D1024X costs about half what the Glue Line Rip does, but doesn’t leave quite as good of a finish (good enough for most glue-ups with a well tuned saw, however) and the ATB grind won’t ever give a flat cut. It might be worth the investment to get a good result on the project, however. There is also the similarly priced Irwin Marples line that has gotten some good reviews, but I haven’t used one to be able to speak personally about the performance.

-- In matters of style, swim with the current; in matters of principle, stand like a rock. Thomas Jefferson

View pintodeluxe's profile

pintodeluxe

5466 posts in 2650 days


#5 posted 03-01-2017 06:20 PM

I use a LU86 Freud 40 tooth combination blade for ripping most hardwoods. If I was cutting 1-3/4” thick lumber I would use a Diablo 1024. They are quite affordable and available at Home Depot.

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

7786 posts in 3212 days


#6 posted 03-01-2017 06:21 PM

The Freud 30T Glue Line Rip blade (LM74/LM75) is only recommended for stock up to 1”. It uses very tight side clearances to create a polished edge, which would likely lead to increased burning in 1-3/4” thick cherry.

A good 24T rip blade will have far less tendency to burn in stock that thick. If you get one with a flat top grind (FTG), it’ll also provide truly flat bottoms for tenons, splines, grooves, etc. You didn’t mention what saw you have, but the Freud LU87 is their 3/32” thin kerf, while the LM72 is the full kerf version. Infinity, CMT Industrial also have excellent choices. If you’re not interested in a flat bottom kerf, the Irwin Marples and Diablo D1024X will do fine for < $30.

FTG is the only flat bottom grind. None of the general purpose or combo blades with an ATB or ATB/R grind will leave a truly flat bottom.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View Slider20's profile

Slider20

119 posts in 358 days


#7 posted 03-01-2017 06:43 PM

I have a simple philosophy with tools, I’ll spend more to be sure I’m getting what I want without making myself too crazy.

I use a forest woodworker II, regular kerf. I rip 2x lumber all the time, not much burning, just make sure your Saw is tuned.

View DalyArcher's profile

DalyArcher

101 posts in 956 days


#8 posted 03-01-2017 07:49 PM

View dalepage's profile

dalepage

317 posts in 677 days


#9 posted 03-02-2017 02:21 AM

Absolutely buy a ripping blade. Using the wrong tool for the job is, in the long run, a set-up for accident. I’m going out on a limb and guessing you don’t have many HP in your saw motor either. Time for a change!

-- Dale

View Michigander's profile

Michigander

220 posts in 2256 days


#10 posted 03-02-2017 09:14 PM

Thanks everyone for your input. I’ve decided to get a dedicated rip blade. I chose the Freud LM72R010. I picked this blade because it has a full kurf, straight ground teeth, but above all it is rated for thicknesses over 1 1/2” . This blade is the silver coating, but is identical to it’s red Teflon coated brother LL72R010. The silver coating saves about $15.00 over the Teflon version. I could find neither in Stock within driving distances, so bought it on Amazon for $50.00. I’ll let you know how well it works. I have a Steel City saw, which I think is 1- 1/2 hp.
Again, I appreciate your help.

View Bill White's profile

Bill White

4805 posts in 3797 days


#11 posted 03-02-2017 09:45 PM

You’re kiddin’ yourself by not havin’ a really good rip blade. Not tryin’ to be snarky, but that blade is a MUST.

Well, ya beat me to my comment.
“Silver” is good, and works well on wood like pine too.
Bill

-- bill@magraphics.us

View avsmusic1's profile

avsmusic1

172 posts in 522 days


#12 posted 03-03-2017 03:26 AM

Out of curiosity, have people found there is much to those recommended thicknesses?

View Andybb's profile

Andybb

550 posts in 440 days


#13 posted 03-03-2017 06:55 AM

I’d second the idea of getting a decent but inexpensive big box store rip blade. Use it for your project then put your good combo blade back on and use it to joint the edges. Just my $0.02 worth.

You said your general purpose blade BROKE? As in cracked, split? What?? Yikes!!

-- Andybb - GO HAWKS!

View shawnn's profile

shawnn

70 posts in 1202 days


#14 posted 03-03-2017 07:24 AM

I use the Freud 30T GRP. On Cherry especially I will cut slightly wide on the first pass then a “whisker” (~1/2 kerf), quick pass for final sizing. Try it before buying a new blade.

ETA Try not to stop the board during the cut, keep it moving or the blade heats the area it’s on & burns it.

View Michigander's profile

Michigander

220 posts in 2256 days


#15 posted 03-08-2017 05:32 PM

UPDATE, I decided to go ahead and buy a dedicated rip blade and am glad I did. I purchased the Freud LM72R010. It’s a flat tooth ground blade, with “silver” coating and it cut that 1-3/4” cherry like it was butter. Some reviews on Amazon said the blade created excessive sawdust and was loud. I found neither to be the case. I cut 70” long boards and has absolutely no burning. I am a believer; get the right tool for the job!
Thanks for your input!
John

showing 1 through 15 of 16 replies

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

HomeRefurbers.com