Question about rust

  • Advertise with us

« back to Power Tools, Hardware and Accessories forum

Forum topic by Thomas Keefe posted 09-30-2010 09:56 PM 1353 views 0 times favorited 14 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View Thomas Keefe's profile

Thomas Keefe

131 posts in 2832 days

09-30-2010 09:56 PM

Topic tags/keywords: question plane refurbishing

Recently I bought a hand plane on ebay and it had some very light rust. The rust does NOT interfere with the use of the plane. Is it important to remove the rust using naval jelly or some other alternative? Is there a downside to leaving the rust alone? Will it spread, get worse, etc. Thanks.


14 replies so far

View popmandude's profile


109 posts in 2443 days

#1 posted 09-30-2010 10:21 PM

Hi Tom
Light rust can be removed with a scotch-brite pad. Lubricate with wd, or whatever you have. Heavier rust can be handled with ( I think its called ) evaporust. 1 gallon jugs sold at harbor freight, and it is re-usable. Get rid of it or it will spread.
Good luck
Oh yeah. I use the maroon colored scotchbrite

View Dan's profile


3630 posts in 2303 days

#2 posted 09-30-2010 10:47 PM

Tom, you can buy special rust removes like said in the first reply but its a little pricey and if its minor rust you may not want to buy it. To get rust off my tools I usually spray it down with WD40 and let it soak for a little while. Then I just go over it with some emery or automotive sand paper. If its just minor rust you will want a really fine grit. A little sanding will take it right off. Then wax and buff it. Seal it so it wont rust again.

-- Dan - "Collector of Hand Planes"

View julianmarble's profile


1 post in 2218 days

#3 posted 10-01-2010 03:52 PM

The above advice is right on. Surely you will be surprise that when following that advice your concerns will be solved and how it looks like.

-- CV Samples : Funeral Card Samples

View swirt's profile


2107 posts in 2395 days

#4 posted 10-01-2010 05:15 PM

Rust will spread and get worse, and may even discolor your wood in the process. I recommend evaporust over naval jelly.

-- Galootish log blog,

View dbhost's profile


5590 posts in 2655 days

#5 posted 10-01-2010 05:26 PM

I have had very poor results with Naval Jelly… Another vote for Evaporust… Actually, I need to get some more, I was an idiot and left my favorite file outdoors and let it rust up a little bit…

-- My workshop blog can be found at

View Tim_456's profile


170 posts in 3018 days

#6 posted 10-01-2010 05:52 PM

It’s also a good time to break the plane down and do a tune up on it if you haven’t done that already ;)

View tooljack's profile


5 posts in 2265 days

#7 posted 10-01-2010 05:55 PM

I wouldn’t use naval jell. It is a hydrochoric aicid base, it will remove the exsiting rust but will set up the metal to rust even worse, if not primmed and painted.

View newbiewoodworker's profile


668 posts in 2250 days

#8 posted 10-01-2010 06:23 PM

I wouldnt recommend rust converter either. I used some on my cheapo $5 chisels… they were supposed to turn black on the rust… they all turned brown.. but that might be because I accidently did 1 of 3 coats for them as WD40… opps… I now have to sand them down…. or just buy another set…

Also, Naval Jelly… bad.. Hydrochloric acid eats through gloves, flesh, and metal… So I dont recommend it… And if you dont neutralize it, then it will pit your tool to hell, and back…

-- "Ah, So your not really a newbie, but a I betterbie."

View A10GAC's profile


191 posts in 2501 days

#9 posted 10-01-2010 11:49 PM

I had a small block plane in the same condition that you’ve described. A dunk in Evap-o-rust, a scuff with a scotch brite pad and some Johnson’s paste wax and it’s in great working order. The evap-o-rust didn’t harm what was remaining of the factory paint either. It’s not a show queen, but it works great and the paste wax has kept the rust away.

The old saying that rust never sleeps is right on, best to get after it now before you end up with real damage. Good luck.

-- Men have become the tools of their tools. - Henry David Thoreau

View Thomas Keefe's profile

Thomas Keefe

131 posts in 2832 days

#10 posted 10-02-2010 04:57 AM

Any thoughts on the use of Rust Free by Boeshield? (I have it on hand.)


View PurpLev's profile


8523 posts in 3071 days

#11 posted 10-02-2010 05:07 AM

Tom, rust free should work well – but read the directions, and follow them to the line. I think it is supposed to be applied to the cleaning pad and not directly to the metal surface, and should not be left on the metal part for too long or it’ll stain it.

I have had good luck with evaporust, and am using it on a normal basis (when acquiring new rusty tools mostly) and it works great.

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

View HorizontalMike's profile


7064 posts in 2337 days

#12 posted 10-02-2010 02:30 PM

What PurpLev says. I made the mistake on my new Grizzly TS and now one section of the TS table looks stained and uneven (and lost that ‘new’ luster). That being said, I understand that Rust Free will actually protect the steel against rust in the future. It appears to coat the steel, making it more difficult to rust in the future.

FWIW, it worked great on my OLD well rusted Delta Scroll Saw table (+15yr of age) but screwed up my NEW TS table. Adjust your expectations accordingly. Rusted areas do tend to go black or gun metal gray when using Rust Free.

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

View Thomas Keefe's profile

Thomas Keefe

131 posts in 2832 days

#13 posted 10-08-2010 12:14 AM

I bought some evapo-rust and it worked great. Thanks for the advice.


View newwoodbutcher's profile


539 posts in 2273 days

#14 posted 10-13-2010 06:07 AM

I live in a dry climate in inland Southern California so I don’t have the challenges with rusting tools that some of you have. Yet, no matter how diligent I am I still get rusty fingerprint marks and rust smudges on my cast iron tools and table tops. I usually use a scotch bright type scrubber and mineral oil or top coat to rub them out, sometimes a scrubber on my ROS. Well I’ve discovered a much easier and effective way! The product (found on another ww blog) is AUTOSOL Metal Polish. This stuff is amazing! I just got it from Amazon today and tried it out on my LN low angle jack plane. It had some prints and smudges of rust growing. Well I just wiped it down with this stuff on a paper towel, lightly. No hard scrubbing and just with a shop paper towel. WOW! That plane looks like new. It even removed a kind of ghost stain I couldn’t get out on a previous cleaning. I’m not sure how it would perform with deep and serious rust, I think not so well but for light rust and stains this stuff is the bee’s knees. I only bought a small tube (3.33 oz) and I think it was about $9. When I run out I’m buying the large economy size and will use it on my TS, jointer and other cast iron tables. This is a new must have product in my shop. I am just a woodworker and have no affiliation or interest in this company. Just thought you would like to know.

-- Ken

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics