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Lesson Learned Unfortunately (Painter's Pyramids) :(

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Forum topic by RubberDuc posted 02-23-2017 12:38 AM 1959 views 0 times favorited 42 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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RubberDuc

45 posts in 364 days


02-23-2017 12:38 AM

Hey all,

So tonight was the last coat of finish I was putting on my custom tube amp head cabinet made from figured maple and walnut. I picked up some of those painter’s pyramids for the first time ever. I normally use a cleat with screws in them that have a nice wide head and have never had an issue. I’ve seen others use these and thought it was a great idea, well I learned it is not. Honestly I’m pretty upset over it but I guess it is best just to take it as a learning process. I finished just like normal but these stupid plastic pyramids slid everywhere at the slightest touch. I already decided I wasn’t going to use them again b/c of that but just went ahead and finished the last coat before I noticed the scratching and dents peppered on the bottom of the piece. I did flip it once to the top, thankfully not scratches there but a few pin size dents are there. I guess the weight of the amp head (not really that heavy) and the sharp point it was bound to happen. I feel so stupid for not knowing that would happen, it is obvious to me now. I guess I’ll just live with it all since the worst is on the bottom and they are so small I’m the only one that would really notice the top, but man with the work I’ve put into this just makes me angry. Guess I just wanted to vent and maybe ask has this happened to some of you that use these things? You know, kinda like misery likes company lol. Here is a couple shots of the amp head cabinet sitting on the bench drying the last coat of Danish oil:


42 replies so far

View jat's profile

jat

71 posts in 2610 days


#1 posted 02-23-2017 12:43 AM

I also have those pyramids and used them once while I put mineral oil on an end grain cutting board. When I turned it over, I noticed that the pyramid points indented on the board. Have never used them again.

View RubberDuc's profile

RubberDuc

45 posts in 364 days


#2 posted 02-23-2017 12:46 AM



I also have those pyramids and used them once while I put mineral oil on an end grain cutting board. When I turned it over, I noticed that the pyramid points indented on the board. Have never used them again.

- jat

Hi Jat,

Thanks for the reply, I’m just sitting here stewing over it lol. It is my own fault, I just don’t know why I thought it would be ok to use these, I want to slap my own face and yell “DOH!”.

View TheFridge's profile

TheFridge

8323 posts in 1324 days


#3 posted 02-23-2017 12:50 AM

It’s the bottom. Gonna get beat up anyway. Fantastic work. Made something similar but I have a rack mount head.

I hope you don’t have problems with the top & sides glued to the front.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

View RubberDuc's profile

RubberDuc

45 posts in 364 days


#4 posted 02-23-2017 12:53 AM


It s the bottom. Gonna get beat up anyway. Fantastic work. Made something similar but I have a rack mount head.

I hope you don t have problems with the top & sides glued to the front.

- TheFridge

Yeah, but still have a few dents on the top too which is really aggravating. I’d be less pissed if it was all on the bottom, but Brightside no scratches on the top. Honestly I guess I just have one of those OCD brains that focus on stuff like that. Honestly, I’m considering just sanding the whole thing back down lol, I really don’t want to do that but depending on how much it continues to bother me will decide I guess :D

When you say “problems” I’m assuming you mean from grain movement (expansion/contraction)? I’ve never really understood that I think like I should so I guess I hope I don’t either. Thanks for the compliment :)

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TheFridge

8323 posts in 1324 days


#5 posted 02-23-2017 01:13 AM

Well yeah, my outlook is a bit different because I don’t baby my gear. I don’t intentionally bang stuff around but it happens.

Yeah that was the problem I was speaking of.

You’re welcome. It looks good.

I wish I had the cash to make dovetailed case of walnut and maple for an 8×10” stack. Id dread hand cutting those dovetails even if I could afford it. But I can dream :)

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

View RubberDuc's profile

RubberDuc

45 posts in 364 days


#6 posted 02-23-2017 01:15 AM



Well yeah, my outlook is a bit different because I don t baby my gear. I don t intentionally bang stuff around but it happens.

Yeah that was the problem I was speaking of.

You re welcome. It looks good.

I wish I had the cash to make dovetailed case of walnut and maple for an 8×10” stack. Id dread hand cutting those dovetails even if I could afford it. But I can dream :)

- TheFridge

Yeah that would be awesome! The dovetails were a pain, I did them all by hand and it was harder then I remembered it being (coming back to woodworking after several years).

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TheFridge

8323 posts in 1324 days


#7 posted 02-23-2017 01:21 AM

I just noticed them. Solid work. The walnut and maple look awesome.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

View Slemi's profile

Slemi

116 posts in 1379 days


#8 posted 02-23-2017 09:57 AM



... these stupid plastic pyramids slid everywhere at the slightest touch.
- RubberDuc

Why don’t you just glue with double sided tape some 240 sandpaper on the bottom of the pyramids? Or some finer sandpaper if 240 is too coarse for the surface you put them on. I use 2000 sandpaper on all of my small jigs to prevent slippage.

Regards!
Gregor

View Mike54Ohio's profile

Mike54Ohio

120 posts in 316 days


#9 posted 02-23-2017 12:49 PM



I also have those pyramids and used them once while I put mineral oil on an end grain cutting board. When I turned it over, I noticed that the pyramid points indented on the board. Have never used them again.

- jat

I found out the same hard way on a cutting board I was making for one of my children for Christmas present, thought those pyramids would be awesome for applying finish coats to the board until I flipped it over and saw all the dimples from the pyramids. Guess they aren’t so hot to use after all. You would think maple is hard enough to resist that from just resting on them, but now they (the pyramids) sit on a shelf staring at me hoping to get used again. Instead they just get dusty.

Nice work on the cabinet head.

-- It's only a dumb question if you ignore the correct answer

View SuperCubber's profile

SuperCubber

1010 posts in 2122 days


#10 posted 02-23-2017 03:49 PM

Same thing happened to me the first time. I hate those plastic ones. I ended up making my own out of poplar. They stay put a little better, and they are softer, but I still only use them on a side that won’t be seen (i.e., finish the bottom, flip it onto those things, then finish the top).

-- Joe | Spartanburg, SC | "To give anything less than your best is to sacrafice the gift." - Steve Prefontaine

View Bluepine38's profile

Bluepine38

3372 posts in 2923 days


#11 posted 02-23-2017 04:35 PM

They also make those pyramids with tabs so you can screw or nail them down. Spacing the project from the
supporting surface allows you to easily finish the sides properly. I have not used them to support a freshly
finished surface yet, because I was taught to let all finishes dry properly before touching or setting them on
anything. This was reinforced when I stacked some supposedly dry painted boards and they stuck together,
forcing me to pry them apart and refinish the ones that were not ruined. Just my opinion.

-- As ever, Gus-the 79 yr young apprentice carpenter

View Carloz's profile

Carloz

979 posts in 429 days


#12 posted 02-23-2017 04:50 PM

Every time I look at those pyramids I wonder how Rockler manages to sell them to someone. Apparently they have very good sale techniques and probably could sell a bridge to you.
As OP says a piece of an off cut with a nail in it does the same if not better job. If you adamantly want a pyramid just cut it out from a piece of wood ( we say we are woodworkers here don’t we ?)

As for myself I plan to make a much better solution. The work piece will be held by an anti-gravity work table. No scratching, no messing up the workpiece or surrounding objects.
I already have a table just need some anti gravity device. If you can come up with an idea how to make it we can make a team and share the profit.

View ChuckV's profile

ChuckV

3061 posts in 3365 days


#13 posted 02-23-2017 06:06 PM


As for myself I plan to make a much better solution. The work piece will be held by an anti-gravity work table. No scratching, no messing up the workpiece or surrounding objects.
I already have a table just need some anti gravity device. If you can come up with an idea how to make it we can make a team and share the profit.

- Carloz

Does the anti-gravity device need to be made entirely of wood? If you allow a few non-wood components, it should be easy!

-- “Big man, pig man, ha ha, charade you are.” ― R. Waters

View pintodeluxe's profile

pintodeluxe

5466 posts in 2651 days


#14 posted 02-23-2017 06:16 PM

I use pyramids, but learned early on to only use them on the side that doesn’t show.
For instance if I’m spraying finish on a hardwood top, I’ll lay the top upside down directly on my work table.
I spray the underside, and flip it over onto the pyramids. Then I finish by spraying the top and edges.

This way there is never any weight on the pyramids.

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

View HickWillis's profile

HickWillis

114 posts in 497 days


#15 posted 02-23-2017 07:12 PM

Ran across this on Popular Woodworking today. Not sure if it would work for you, but you could make it any size you wanted in reality.

http://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/use-a-nail-board-to-speed-work

-- -Will

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