The 1st router I plan on building a router table like the one Jay Bates built (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pFcWWbJKnyc). I really like the idea of using a lever to quickly set a height. If you see any disadvantages or better ideas, feel free to speak.
As for the second router, I believe I will only need it for trimming.
With all the different routers out there, it gets confusing. I've used different routers in the past, but I honestly don't know what the hell each one is capable of.
I do have some requirements as for picking 2 routers. I need both to have 1/4" & 1/2" collets, micro adjustments, and maybe a variable speed (I don't know when the hell I'll need it for, but with more knowledge, I can use it).
I bought one of those router kits, motor, two bases, one screw, one plunge. Most of these kits will have both the 1/4" & 1/2" collets. Not long after that purchase I decided to get a new router table also.
It wasn't long after buying the new router table that I decided to purchase another router, one the same model as the kit except only the motor and screw base so I could leave the base permanently in the router table.
The flexibility of having two identical motors that can be interchanged among the bases was one of the best tool buying decisions I ever made. It's saved a lot of time not having to reset a router when multiple setups are required.
Screw base routers are easily setup for edge trimming, ie using flush cut bits when applying plastic laminates, edge shaping, rabbets joints, etc…
A plunge base is useful when work to be preformed is in the middle of the piece to be routed, ie, top bearing bits (pattern bits) used for routing for treads and risers in stair stringers, core box bits used for sign making, etc…
I bought one of those router kits, motor, two bases, one screw, one plunge. Most of these kits will have both the 1/4" & 1/2" collets. Not long after that purchase I decided to get a new router table also.
It wasn t long after buying the new router table that I decided to purchase another router, one the same model as the kit except only the motor and screw base so I could leave the base permanently in the router table.
The flexibility of having two identical motors that can be interchanged among the bases was one of the best tool buying decisions I ever made. It s saved a lot of time not having to reset a router when multiple setups are required.
Screw base routers are easily setup for edge trimming, ie using flush cut bits when applying plastic laminates, edge shaping, rabbets joints, etc…
A plunge base is useful when work to be preformed is in the middle of the piece to be routed, ie, top bearing bits (pattern bits) used for routing for treads and risers in stair stringers, core box bits used for sign making, etc…
I'm thinking of doing the same. The router motor seems to be the best option to buy for my router table build. Does it seem reasonable to make this router the one with a stronger motor?
It is reasonable. You can spin the larger bits with the smaller motors, but you'll have to be a little more deliberate with your feed speed. As for "maybe a variable speed", change that to "most definitely variable speed" (you need that for different size bits, and it's also useful if you're getting burns on the wood). Also on the collets, make sure they are collets, some of them come with a split sleeve adapter, and IMHO those are useless. Buying routers of the same brands has other advantages as well. All the other parts will interchange, such as the wrenches, collets, etc.
I'm a router nut I own 40 routers.For a router table router I would recommend a triton with a built in lift and for a handheld router I like the control a "D" handle router gives you like a Porter cable 691
Depending on your intended use yes it is reasonable bryansong. If you want to build projects where larger bits are used (raised panel doors etc…) then you'll want at least a motor from the middle to upper HP range of what's available. Fred's makes a good point, smaller the motor , slower the feed rate.
He also makes a good point about collets. Myself I favor Porter Cable routers because of their collets. I started using Porter Cable because most of the accessories that were available for router were made for Porter Cable. This is an important consideration when buying any tool, do some research and try and buy tools that don't need adapters for the tool to function with accessories as your skills grow.
The ultimate solution would be to do like Jim. Cadillac it. Of coarse that comes with a cost. But if you budget allows you could save a lot.
I have 5 routers, and I am just a retired guy having fun slinging sawdust.
2 complete Bosch 1617EVSPK kits.
1 Triton 3 1/4hp router mounted under a table.
DeWalt compact Router kit (fixed and plunge)
Old craftsman 1hp with a flush trim bit mounted. That is all I use it for.
It is nice to have more than one especially if you are making raised panel doors and using a pair of rail and stile cutters.
With variable speed, the big router just loafs along spinning the big cutter (3 1/2 inch diameter) when cutting the raised panels.
Recently when I was building my new work bench, I used all of them except the Triton. Everything was all hand held operations.
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