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problems resawing--need some advice

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Forum topic by Anapolis7 posted 09-25-2010 12:49 AM 2047 views 0 times favorited 11 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Anapolis7

49 posts in 1639 days


09-25-2010 12:49 AM

Topic tags/keywords: bandsaw resaw problem

I have a Grizzly G0457 bandsaw that currently has a 106” Timberwolf 6tpi blade on it. I am attempting to resaw some tiger maple into sheets of veneer to cover some speakers I am building. I will say that I am not very experienced in using a bandsaw, but I am having some odd problems.

1) The saw will make rip cuts all day long of a consistent thickness without bogging down, but when i begin to resaw the saw takes forever to slice through the maple. A 4” wide by 40” thicknessed to 13/16 took me ten minutes to resaw through. Is this normal? Do I need a blade with fewer tpi?

2) I have adjusted and readjusted the thrust bearings and guide bearings a ton of times however the blade seems to manage to slip over the edge of the rear thrust bearing. Am I too close to the blade or is there a way to shift this bearing laterally that I am missing?

3) I have checked and rechecked the drift angle and confirmed that the fence is adjusted properly however I have to constantly fight as I push the board through to keep the board from pulling away from the fence. I am assuming that I need something to the effect of a high feather board or one of those magnetic fences with the bearings to apply constant pressure. Any ideas?

Thanks again for reading. I am sure this is relatively amature stuff I am having troubles with but I have had to learn by doing with this saw and at the moment I am frustrated. Any help you can offer would be great.


11 replies so far

View woodman71's profile

woodman71

162 posts in 2046 days


#1 posted 09-25-2010 03:17 AM

Hello I tried to look up the blade your using how wide is the blade. Do you have enough tension on your blade is it slipping on the wheels . Do you have a blade that is for resawing it seem to me that the blade your using is not correct for resawing. I would do some research online that might help you out good luck.

View Claymation's profile

Claymation

165 posts in 1538 days


#2 posted 09-25-2010 03:36 AM

sounds like the blade is dull. Possible? Also should be using the widest blade you can for your saw. Need to check on the angle/pitch of the teeth; I think this will make a bigger difference than the tpi. Use a feather board. Make sure your tires are not dry and allowing the blade to slip.

-- Clay (Master Kindler) ~ Central VA

View Eric_S's profile

Eric_S

1521 posts in 1917 days


#3 posted 09-25-2010 03:48 AM

I’m not an expert by any means, but I have had to do a lot of resawing lately so hopefully this will help.

1) I think 6tpi is too much for resawing. You want a 3-4 tpi and like BoiseJow says. I have to agree with him on the blade as well. I’ve used both the Timberwolf and Woodslicer and in my opinion the Woodslicer is superior for resawing. don’t know how much horsepower your bandsaw has but my G0555 1hp(i know not much) is still slow with 8” wide cherry or maple. And yes, i have to still feed it very slowly even with 3-4tpi.

2) Assuming the guides are correctly set, it sounds like your blade may not be tracking correctly or tension is too low. Check the wheels are coplaner and the blade sitting in the center of the wheel.

3) How tall is your fence? I’ve heard it should be as high as the board is wide but my resaw fence is only 6 inches and my boards as wide as 10. Besides that, I use a featherboard to keep it firm against it. I think the blade drift you are getting may be related to #2 however I’ve had some issues with it doing that as well. My issue was the blade. How new/sharp is that blade? I used a quality fresh blade and it fixed a lot of the drifting issues I was having.

-- - Eric Indianapolis, IN

View MOJOE's profile

MOJOE

547 posts in 1991 days


#4 posted 09-25-2010 05:28 AM

try a blade with fewer teeth. also, I’ve read that the factory tension gauges are usually not accurate…...a fix that worked for me was to tension to the next highest level eg. if you have a 1/2” blade, tension until your gauge says 5/8” or even 3/4”.....this may help with the thrust bearing issues and blade drift.

-- Measuring twice and cutting once only works if you read the tape correctly!

View Anapolis7's profile

Anapolis7

49 posts in 1639 days


#5 posted 09-25-2010 01:24 PM

Thanks guys for all of the advice. I am in agreement on the blade. The blade has a pretty flat rake angle and the gullets are really small which would probably explain what there is a ton of saw dust in between the two boards when I finish resawing. The thing that sucks is i have to wait for a blade to be custom welded :(. As far as the tension goes, i think it is pretty good and the tires are in good shape. I haven’t seen the blade slip. The wheels are coplanar.

I am ashamed to admit this, but I also discovered I was sawing from the wrong side of the board. Meaning, my veneer piece was coming off between the blade and then fence and i am willing to bet that the board has been pinching the blade as well.

As far as the fence, I have a kreg fence that I added a resaw extension to. I haven’t measured it as it was just a scrap I had of baltic birch but just eyballing it I would guess it is 8-9” tall.

So from here, I am going to order a new blade and then see how that goes. Thanks for all the help!

View docholladay's profile

docholladay

1286 posts in 1781 days


#6 posted 09-25-2010 03:04 PM

I had a similar thing happen to me on my old Rockwell saw. I was amazed at how big a difference a new/sharp blade made in it for this type of work.

-- Hey, woodworking ain't brain surgery. Just do something and keep trying till you get it. Doc

View Ken Fitzpatrick's profile

Ken Fitzpatrick

373 posts in 2746 days


#7 posted 09-29-2010 09:06 AM

I use a timberwolf 3 tpi 1/2” blade and it works great. There is a trick to tensioning a timberwolf blade explained on their site. Hard for me to explain but they do a great job of it.

Ken

-- • "I have noticed that nothing I have never said ever did me any harm."....... Calvin Coolidge

View PBthecat's profile

PBthecat

53 posts in 1772 days


#8 posted 09-29-2010 09:42 PM

Instead of a flat fence, try a pivoting version

http://www.jeffgreefwoodworking.com/pnc/thinstock/index2.html

-- "Every hundred years, all new people"

View SCOTSMAN's profile

SCOTSMAN

5529 posts in 2307 days


#9 posted 09-29-2010 09:49 PM

Maybe try with a nice big high fence and featherboards.Alistair

-- excuse my typing as I have a form of parkinsons disease

View blackcherry's profile

blackcherry

3186 posts in 2545 days


#10 posted 09-29-2010 09:58 PM

I have the same band saw and the blade length is 103 not 106…also try a 3tps 1/2 ” blade which is the one I use and it cut like butter…BC

View shipwright's profile

shipwright

5227 posts in 1520 days


#11 posted 09-30-2010 03:08 AM

I’ve done a fair bit of resawing veneer lately and this is my current setup.
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/aXze8eIlgyV6UTHyb5n8_g?feat=directlink
To me, and I’ve been bandsawing for forty years, using a linear fence on a bandsaw is counterproductive, it’s not conducive to the way a bandsaw works. I always use a pivot point and a line on the board. You cut off half the line. You’ll be surprised how much you adjust the feed angle to stay on the line. No matter how well a bandsaw is set up it will always want to wander especially when resawing wide stock. This is because even wide bs blades aren’t wide enough to prevent hard grain or hard knots or sundry other factors from deflecting them. That’s what table saws are for.

Paul

-- Paul M ..............If God wanted us to have fiberglass boats he would have given us fiberglass trees. http://prmdesigns.com/

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