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cost savings of a jointer

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Forum topic by scribble posted 02-17-2017 03:42 PM 1079 views 0 times favorited 34 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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scribble

146 posts in 2040 days


02-17-2017 03:42 PM

Topic tags/keywords: question oak cherry walnut jointer milling joining

What kind of savings do you incur when buying rough sawn would vs already joined and planed wood from the big box stores. I am trying to rationalize with the “banker” that an upgraded joiner is needed for our next 3 projects.
The next 3 projects are new raised panel doors for kitchen, a new pantry, and a new vanity for the bathroom. I already have a Dewalt735 planer that works great but my current joiner is a POS delta bench unit. I know everyone says to go 8” but space and funds dictate a 6” will be the size and that I don’t do anything larger than 5” wood currently.

Please help me with more info to back up my cause.

-- If you can't read it Scribble wrote it!! “Experience is merely the name men gave to their mistakes.”


34 replies so far

View Kirk650's profile

Kirk650

514 posts in 588 days


#1 posted 02-17-2017 03:52 PM

I have to admit that I don’t know the cost savings, since I normally buy wood in the rough. The primary reason that I do buy it like that is to be sure that I can mill it all to the same thickness and that I can remove any cupping or twist or warp. If you buy wood that is already milled to about 3/4 inch, you can’t ‘fix’ any problems with the wood being anything other than flat, and it probably won’t all be the exact thickness you want or need.

You need a jointer. I get by with a 6 inch. I’d love an 8 inch, but like you I am space limited.

View pintodeluxe's profile

pintodeluxe

5468 posts in 2653 days


#2 posted 02-17-2017 03:55 PM

I figured I could save 50% on buying rough lumber, and I do. Sometimes it is not yet kiln dried, so I have to kiln dry it. It also depends on the availability of rough sawn lumber in your area.

I think every serious woodworker needs a jointer. It’s just one of those basic tools for truing lumber. Without one you will be fighting bowed, crooked stock at every turn. The one exception is hand tool aficionados who can get by with a long jointer plane. They are probably not building kitchen cabinets though.

I can’t back you up on the 6” model though. I got by with one for a few years, but quickly saw the need to upsize. The good news is you won’t lose much money once you do upgrade the 6” jointer. I bought my old Jet jointer used. I had it for several years and sold it for the same price. 6” jointers are easy to find on the used market.

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

View bondogaposis's profile

bondogaposis

4482 posts in 2191 days


#3 posted 02-17-2017 03:58 PM

Compute the lumber cost of your next 3 projects using prices form the BORG vs your rough lumber supplier and see the difference. Just looking at my HD, walnut prices comes out to $16.68/bf that is pretty astronomical even for my area where we have no local hardwoods I can get rough walnut for less than 1/2 that. A lot depends on the species of wood you intend to use and your location, lumber prices vary greatly depending on locale.

-- Bondo Gaposis

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scribble

146 posts in 2040 days


#4 posted 02-17-2017 04:06 PM

Bondo, I just did that and almost had a panic attack. I have a local source for red oak that is $2 bd ft and cherry $3 bd ft. I compared the price of 1”x 6”x 8’ per board foot and it is a savings of $400.00 I think that alone just for the cabinet doors should be enough to get my point across.
If I go with box stuff closer to my final dimensions it almost doubles the cost.

-- If you can't read it Scribble wrote it!! “Experience is merely the name men gave to their mistakes.”

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ArtMann

691 posts in 656 days


#5 posted 02-17-2017 04:08 PM

I agree with Kirk. It is possible to save some money by milling rough cut lumber, but the biggest benefit for me is to be able to control the quality and consistency of the material I work with. Store bought S4S hardwood varies too much in thickness and flatness.

As far as size goes, I got along with a 6 inch jointer for a long time when most of my projects were cabinets. It worked just fine for rails, stiles and frames. I have since migrated to a different type of projects and I needed a 12 inch jointer.

View Julian's profile

Julian

1240 posts in 2530 days


#6 posted 02-17-2017 04:21 PM

Lumber from a lumber yard will be cheaper than anything form a big box store. My advise; find a local lumber yard that carries the wood you want. I found out that my local lumber supplier can sell me rough cut boards but needs at least one days notice to pull the stock. They normally mill all the rough stock for sale. As you mentioned above; the savings in rough sawn lumber will more than cover the cost of a 6” jointer.

-- Julian

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DalyArcher

101 posts in 959 days


#7 posted 02-17-2017 05:27 PM

http://www.woodmagazine.com/tool-reviews/joiners-planers/free-jointer-and-planer

Decent article illustrating the cost savings of milling rough lumber.

View jimintx's profile

jimintx

513 posts in 1424 days


#8 posted 02-17-2017 05:35 PM

I read the 8-inch jointer recommendation often. I would sure appreciate some background on this choice of capacity.

What are the types of projects that drive many woodworkers to conclude the 8-inch size is “near-mandatory”?

I know it isn’t completely mandatory, since many folks get by with a 6-inch’er, and of course many get by with no jointer at all.

-- Jim, Houston, TX

View Lazyman's profile

Lazyman

1509 posts in 1227 days


#9 posted 02-17-2017 05:37 PM

The most surprising thing I learned in this thread is that the HD near Bondo sells walnut lumber. Here in the DFW area, red oak and poplar are the only hardwoods they carry. Even though I would never buy from them in large quantities because of price, it would be nice to be able to grab a piece nearby for small projects.

-- Nathan, TX -- Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.

View ArtMann's profile

ArtMann

691 posts in 656 days


#10 posted 02-17-2017 05:51 PM

Eight inches of width is definitely not necessary, though it is nice. I used a 6 inch jointer for a long time when I made lots of cabinets and I seldom needed more. The nature of my work has changed and now I need and own a 12 inch jointer. An 8 inch machine wouldn’t do me any more good than a 6 inch one.


I read the 8-inch jointer recommendation often. I would sure appreciate some background on this choice of capacity.

What are the types of projects that drive many woodworkers to conclude the 8-inch size is “near-mandatory”?

I know it isn t completely mandatory, since many folks get by with a 6-inch er, and of course many get by with no jointer at all.

- jimintx


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jimintx

513 posts in 1424 days


#11 posted 02-17-2017 06:09 PM


Eight inches of width is definitely not necessary, though it is nice. I used a 6 inch jointer for a long time when I made lots of cabinets and I seldom needed more. The nature of my work has changed and now I need and own a 12 inch jointer. An 8 inch machine wouldn t do me any more good than a 6 inch one.

- ArtMann

Art – I know you wrote the nature of your work changed.
The key part of my question is: What is the nature of the work that makes the 8-inch jointer, or a 12-inch, or whatever larger size, a needed feature?

I’m just curious (nosey), and want to know what people are building that makes wider and wider jointers so valuable to them. It implies that you are using something like 11”x11” timbers, and thus need to square an edge that is nearly 12” wide. Is that right?

Thanks again.

-- Jim, Houston, TX

View Kelly's profile

Kelly

1821 posts in 2784 days


#12 posted 02-17-2017 06:21 PM

Like others, I did not buy a jointer for cost savings. I bought it to overcome a huge limitation – dealing with rough edges and faces of both wood I found and wood I bought.

Generally, any wood I buy is from a wholesaler. The cost savings for me smoothing two faces parallel and cleaning one edge doesn’t justify me spending the time to do the same. That said, I still need to touch up edges of pieces of wood I cut, be it for joining a couple pieces or whatever.

I have gotten some REALLY nice wood by way of craigslist ads. For example, I brought home four blocks of sycamore I cut into 8x and such. Too, I have a friend with a yard of walnut and other logs. I do him favors and he gives me log sections. When dried and it comes time to mill them to usable pieces, the jointer lets me face and edge one side, before moving to the planner for parallel edges and faces.

Milled pieces of wood often warp. The jointer allows me to bring them back to usable condition.

On side note, I’ve had four jointers (maybe five). I started with a four inch Craftsman. I outgrew it in a couple months [or minutes]. The six inch Craftsman I replaced it with was, significantly, better, but getting and keeping it tuned was a pain. I acquired a PM 6”, which was a cut above the Craftsman’s, but I longed for more and better. Now, I have a Grizzly long bed, 8” with a spiral head. It lets me do highly figured wood and is a dream to run.

View Aj2's profile

Aj2

1179 posts in 1638 days


#13 posted 02-17-2017 06:44 PM

I agree with other.Save your self some aggravation and get a jointer.Cabinet doors that are flat and square are a pleasure to install.Doors with a twist can be a problem.Most cup hinges are adjustable but if your making them for your house it’s nice to have them pro.
One point I’d like to make about jointers.
I have a 12 inch with very long tables each side is over 4ft long.But it doesn’t mean I need to buy 11 or 12 inch boards. 8 ft long.I usually run the fence in the middle of the table.So when the first 6or 7 inches of knives lose their keenness i still have the back part.I can go very long between knife changes.
Good luck
Aj

-- Aj

View Sarit's profile

Sarit

549 posts in 2979 days


#14 posted 02-17-2017 07:45 PM

Ask the banker if he/she would like warped cabinet doors or straight. Then explain that the jointer takes the warp out of wood. S4S wood can still warp as the humidity varies between where it was milled and where it will be used. The simplest explanation is if they want professional results, there are just some professional tools you have to have.

View Monte Pittman's profile

Monte Pittman

27119 posts in 2178 days


#15 posted 02-17-2017 08:14 PM

I can’t really say if I save money doing everything myself. Lots of time involved. However, if I had to buy all my wood from the lumber yard, I can’t imagine even doing this. I love the work.

-- Mother Nature created it, I just assemble it.

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