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How large a bandsaw blade can I use with my new 17 inch Grizzly??

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Forum topic by DocSavage45 posted 02-17-2017 07:04 AM 4669 views 0 times favorited 53 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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DocSavage45

8064 posts in 2479 days


02-17-2017 07:04 AM

Topic tags/keywords: question bandsaw milling

Hey LJ’s

Once again I’m asking a question about bandsaws.Have learned a lot from previous Forum posts. I’ve also learned a lot from Matthias Wendal of woodgears. ca ( about blade size and flex )

I now own a new GO 513 extreme Bandsaw. It has balanced steel wheels and a cast iron trunion with 2 hp and two speeds.

The lower speed is recommended for hardwoods. The manual that comes with this saw is much more informative than the manual for my GO555 that I sold to buy this saw. It recommends using a 3/4 3 tpi blade.

Have done a bit of mill work on the 14 inch saw and learned that 5/8 ths was the maximum due to the wheel size. And the GO555 was a bit under powered for rough mill work.

I also know that a carbide blade would be a valuable blade to have.

My question is : Given the ruggedness of this saw can I use a larger blade for a more efficient milling on this saw?

Thanks for your input and suggestions

-- Cau Haus Designs, Thomas J. Tieffenbacher


53 replies so far

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papadan

2543 posts in 3005 days


#1 posted 02-17-2017 10:00 AM

Doc, I am no bandsaw expert at all, but do know that 3/4 3TPI would be a nice resaw blade. I don’t know the max blade width but your manual should tell you or at least measure the tire width on the wheels An Ideal resaw would be 1” 2-3TPI From there you work your way down in width as you go up in TPI all the way to 1/4” 12-16 TPI scroll blade.

-- Artificial intelligence is no match for natural stupidity!

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Cajun Wood Artist

278 posts in 579 days


#2 posted 02-17-2017 04:40 PM

First….Congratulations on your new 17’ bandsaw.
I have a 14” Powermatic bandsaw with a riser kit and the manual recommended a 5/8” max blade width but I did buy a 3/4” blade and used it with no problems. My thoughts at the time were that if it would not work I would just be out the cost of a blade and if it did work i would have a good upgrade.
Realsitically, I do not see a big difference with an 1/8” size increase over the 5/8.
What size increase were you considering?

-- Wood for projects is like a good Fart..."better when you cut it yourself"

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Lazyman

1149 posts in 1024 days


#3 posted 02-17-2017 04:58 PM

I am pretty sure that the manual says 1” is the max (which I have never tried on mine) but 3/4” for milling green logs is big enough for me. Frankly after watching the Band Saw Clinic with Alex Snodgrass Youtube video, I think that putting a 1” blade on it would not work very well. If you watch the video, he recommends adjusting the tracking so that the deepest part of the gullet is centered on the wheel, rather than centering the blade on the wheel. With a 1” blade, that might put the back of blade even with or possibly even past the back of the wheel but that is just a guess since I haven’t tried a 1” blade.

Some great information in that video BTW. Anyone with a band saw can get some go information from it.

-- Nathan, TX -- Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.

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DocSavage45

8064 posts in 2479 days


#4 posted 02-17-2017 05:47 PM

Hey Nathan,

Thanks for the reminder. The video was very helpful when I was trying to figure out the GO555. Your milling green logs on your bandsaw. What brand saw?

-- Cau Haus Designs, Thomas J. Tieffenbacher

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DocSavage45

8064 posts in 2479 days


#5 posted 02-17-2017 05:59 PM

Greg,

Thanks! With the riser installed, how much height did you achieve? I purchased a timberwolf 3/4 inch blade. I had some amazon gift cards from my credit card points. I’d purchased and tried a 5/8ths timber wolf to use on my 14 inch GO555 and I got some even 1/4 inch veneer cuts on black walnut I’d dried. I videoed it and when I went back to look at it it took 8 minutes for an 8 inch long @ 7 inch high cut. I have a bunch of rough lumber to mill and that time line felt excessive when multiplied by all my logs? I’m guessing your saw has a 1.5 hp motor? My 14 inch had a 1 hp. Great saw and it sold to the first guy who came to my shop. LOL!

The information from the timberwolf blade indicated that it was not for green wood?

I’d thought about 7/8ths to 1 inch. Papadan’s information gave me something to think about. RE: dimension of the wheels and tires.

-- Cau Haus Designs, Thomas J. Tieffenbacher

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DocSavage45

8064 posts in 2479 days


#6 posted 02-17-2017 06:02 PM

Papadan,

Thanks for the suggestions! 14 to 16 for 1/4 inch? HMMM!

-- Cau Haus Designs, Thomas J. Tieffenbacher

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Lazyman

1149 posts in 1024 days


#7 posted 02-17-2017 06:06 PM



Hey Nathan,

Thanks for the reminder. The video was very helpful when I was trying to figure out the GO555. Your milling green logs on your bandsaw. What brand saw?

- DocSavage45

I got the basic Grizzly G0513ANV about 2 years ago while it was $100 less that the non-anniversary version and also had free shipping. I made a crude sled to hold 2-3’ logs to get straighter cuts. Since I have not made an in-feed or out-feed support, 3’ is about the longest I can handle without getting someone to help. With the sled, the widest I have ever milled was about 10.5” in diameter. The worst part is having to clean the blades after every other log (soaking in Simple Green works great). I need to try sharpening my 3/4” blade. After the pecan I just milled up with the 2 year old blade, it definitely needs some attention.

-- Nathan, TX -- Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.

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DocSavage45

8064 posts in 2479 days


#8 posted 02-17-2017 06:25 PM

Thanks, Watching the video. LOL!

-- Cau Haus Designs, Thomas J. Tieffenbacher

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firefighterontheside

15018 posts in 1493 days


#9 posted 02-17-2017 06:30 PM

I’m looking at this same saw in an auction right now. Grizzly site says it will use 1/8” up to 1” blades.

-- Bill M. "People change, walnut doesn't" by Gene.

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DocSavage45

8064 posts in 2479 days


#10 posted 02-17-2017 06:37 PM

Bill,

Good luck!

-- Cau Haus Designs, Thomas J. Tieffenbacher

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firefighterontheside

15018 posts in 1493 days


#11 posted 02-17-2017 06:38 PM

Thanks, We’ll see. I’m winning right now at $180. Lol. There’s a lot of time left.

-- Bill M. "People change, walnut doesn't" by Gene.

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DocSavage45

8064 posts in 2479 days


#12 posted 02-17-2017 06:57 PM

Bill,

It’s usually down to the end. Just remember what the new ANV costs, with a warranty. I have made regretable “great deal” purchases. LOL!

-- Cau Haus Designs, Thomas J. Tieffenbacher

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Crickett

137 posts in 1117 days


#13 posted 02-17-2017 07:45 PM

Doc,
There is a good reason manufacturers have blade recommendations. There’s more to it the just the capacity of what your bearings / guide blocks / euro-guides can handle. As you get in to larger blades which come with wider kerfs, you introduce higher tension requirements for the spine of the machine and the wheels. Grizzly makes a fine machine but they don’t make the thickest & most sturdy spines on the market. You made a nice upgrade and congrats on that. I recommend staying within recommended sizes, make sure you use proper tension, and splurge for a carbide blade if it in the budget. A good carbide blade makes your saw work less and carbide blades also nearly eliminate drift. Food for thought…

View AHuxley's profile

AHuxley

652 posts in 2958 days


#14 posted 02-17-2017 08:03 PM

There are multiple restrictions that can determine the maximum blade size for a bandsaw, the wheel width, the path the blade must take to be placed on the saw and the guides are the main physical restrictions. The wheel and guides are fine on the 513 series up to 1” and the path though it gets tight for a 1” blade is still fine but requires some finesse.

The next issue is the amount of tension the saw can produce. This can’t be simply expressed by blade width since it depends on the blade cross section so thickness (gauge) is just as big and issue. So a thin 1” blade may require less spring pressure than a 3/4” blade, so you have to know what you are dealing with. Further carbon and spring steel blades will operate optimally at 15,000-17,000 psi where carbide and bi-metal blades will need 25,000-30,000 psi to operate at their best. So it is not as simple as saying it will tension a 1” blade or a 3/4” blade.

The 513 is a light weight 17” saw and has limited tension ability so if you want a bi-metal or carbide blade then you want to stay at 3/4” and make sure it has a relatively thin gauge backer, preferably a .030 or thinner blade but those are hard to find, you may have to go with a .035” blade. A 3/4” carbide or bi-metal blade will need all the tension that saw can muster and still be on the low end in tension.

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Crickett

137 posts in 1117 days


#15 posted 02-17-2017 08:14 PM

Well put AHuxley. This is the exact reason I bought a Minimax MM16 with a triple box beam spine. Since I use it nearly every single day, I don’t even bother to release the tension overnight on my 1” Trimaster. Not to mention the 5hp (4.8 for those who want to fact check) motor eats everything I throw at it.

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