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Looking for a super thin saw blade

3K views 45 replies 18 participants last post by  Tony_S 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
So like the title says, I'm looking for a thin saw blade.

In the past, I have tried looking for a blade and now I'm trying again. I would like it to be:
- 10"
- Designed for ripping
- 5/8" arbor
- And thinner than Freud's Thin Kerf Glue Line Rip. They have .091" Kerf.

Diablo has this circular saw blade (http://www.diablotools.com/products/product/D0724D) that has a .059" kerf. I use it a lot on my table saw, but there are times I need to rip 8/4S3S lumber. The 7-1/4" blade doesn't cut it on height so thats why I'm looking for something with the same kerf, but with a 10" diameter.

I know there are methods like ripping a little more than half the height of the lumber and than flipping it, but I always get saw marks on both pieces. Another method would be a band saw, but I don't have one.

Any suggestions?
 
#5 ·
Well he said he doesn't own a band saw. So that negates that. I use a Dewalt Precision blade for ripping thin stock to the get the most strips out of the width of what I'm ripping. It won't rip 8/4 stock though. Maybe you need to use a track saw or skill saw for this. You can do 8/4 with the Dewalt blade and a hand held saw.
 
#7 · (Edited by Moderator)
Well he said he doesn t own a band saw. So that negates that. I use a Dewalt Precision blade for ripping thin stock to the get the most strips out of the width of what I m ripping. It won t rip 8/4 stock though. Maybe you need to use a track saw or skill saw for this. You can do 8/4 with the Dewalt blade and a hand held saw.

- builtinbkyn
Thanks for noticing that I mentioned about not having a bandsaw.

My main purpose is to cut thin stock. I am trying to get pieces at a net of 1/8" thick. The thicker the blade, the more waste there is. Using a circular saw may help with the Diablo blade I mentioned.
 
#10 ·
I gave a thumbs-up on papadan s post. Does that mean I m not helpful either? He made a valid point, even if it was in his *********************************** way (which we love him for).

- RichTaylor
If your are suggesting using a tool, which I mentioned beforehand about not having, then yes.

In my original post, I am looking for what I asked for like what TravisH mentioned or alternatives.
 
#11 ·
My main purpose is to cut thin stock. I am trying to get pieces at a net of 1/8" thick. The thicker the blade, the more waste there is. Using a circular saw may help.

- INeedMore_Lumber
I can appreciate that. But you have to calculate the savings versus the cost of the blade. That Infinity blade is $160. It is 1/16" kerf versus the 3/32" of a regular thin-kerf blade. You're saving 1/32" per pass. Do the math to determine the breakeven point.
 
#12 · (Edited by Moderator)
I gave a thumbs-up on papadan s post. Does that mean I m not helpful either? He made a valid point, even if it was in his *********************************** way (which we love him for).

- RichTaylor
If your are suggesting using a tool, which I mentioned beforehand about not having, then yes.

In my original post, I am looking for what I asked for like what TravisH mentioned or alternatives.

By the way, you correctly got what I was doing except for the ebony part. I wish I can afford that.
 
#14 ·
I can appreciate that. But you have to calculate the savings versus the cost of the blade. That Infinity blade is $160. It is 1/16" kerf versus the 3/32" of a regular thin-kerf blade. You re saving 1/32" per pass. Do the math to determine the breakeven point.

- RichTaylor
Well I get what you are saying, but the cut that I plan on doing is a cut that I plan on doing for many many many years. That price of that blade will spread out over time. I don't mind buying a quality blade for that price.
 
#15 ·
I understand your concern. It's valid. I'm just saying you need to weigh the costs. How many 1/32" savings from cuts you make will pay for that blade? That was the crux of my ebony comment.

It'll take a load of cuts of woods that are even average in cost, like cherry, walnut, to pay for that blade.

This would be a great challenge for LJers. How many linear feet of, say, walnut, would you have to cut to pay for a $160 saw blade? Pick a $/bf and run with it.
 
#18 ·
I understand your concern. It s valid. I m just saying you need to weigh the costs. How many 1/32" savings from cuts you make will pay for that blade? That was the crux of my ebony comment.

It ll take a load of cuts of woods that are even average in cost, like cherry, walnut, to pay for that blade.

This would be a great challenge for LJers. How many linear feet of, say, walnut, would you have to cut to pay for a $160 saw blade? Pick a $/bf and run with it.

- RichTaylor
I can't figure out that math problem right now. It'll take me time to the point where this thread is dead :). But I do see what your saying.

Other than the blade possibly squeezing out one more piece for me, it can help by not having to buy more boards which obviously reduces the BF.
 
#20 · (Edited by Moderator)
#21 ·
Purely because I like wasting my time on stuff like this.
A 1/32" slice of 8/4 lumber is equal to 0.005208 bdft per lineal foot. Therefore, you need to rip 192' of lumber to save 1 bdft. Assuming a $10/bdft (which pricey, but not super pricey) you would need to rip 3072' to save $160. Assuming the typical rip cut is 4' long, that's 768 cuts. Assuming you make 10 cuts/day, that's 77 days, or a 2.5 months. Not that bad.

The question I have, just for information purposes, is what is a typical kerf for a bandsaw blade?
 
#22 ·
For those concerned with the price of the Infinity blade, well most any high end rip blade or specialty cut blade, is going to have a premium price tag. The subject blade is marginally higher than a top of the line Forrest which runs about $30 cheaper - the Custom WWII for instance. It seems the cost isn't much of an issue for the OP. Besides it's not like it will need to be replaced after a little use. It will probably serve years of use.
 
#23 ·
I-N-M-L, if your saw is set up correctly, cutting through halfway, and flipping it to finish the cut won't give you as bad of a stepped cut as you're afraid of getting. A 10" thin blade will probably flex while cutting and leave worse marks on the edge, so you'll be complaining about that. It's a no win. Just get a good blade, a good saw, enough wood and cut the stuff you need

If you don't have a quality saw, it doesn't matter what quality blade you use. It won't help the finish on the saw cuts.

It's been my experience that a saw won't give you a finished surface. You'll get close, but no cigar awarded.

Sounds like you are looking to make that "Purrrfect" cut I hear so much of in woodworking shows, but there are too many variables in cutting wood that will make changes to any savings null and void that you've so carefully planned. You might get lucky with a couple pieces, but others might not be as good. Waste and loss is a byproduct of woodworking. Figuring in a percentage for that waste and loss is a good idea instead of trying to stretch a piece of wood. Also obsessing on trying to get exactly what the board should yield is distracting and can get yourself hurt. Buy an extra piece of wood and move on with the project. At least, you'll have some wood for the next project…..

Ten years ago, I bought 2 Amana 1/8" ATB 40 tooth combo blades. One cut a smoother surface than a negative rake 90 tooth Melamine blade I have. The other left large scallops in the edge. It was sharpened 3 times before it was reluctantly acceptable. The first one still cuts as well as it did when first purchased even though it's been sharpened many times.

Not trying to be mean, but that's the facts…........ Jerry(in Tucson)
 
#24 ·
The linked blade with 1/16 in kerf is a 40 tooth ATB blade. Not the best for ripping. You will need to slow down and take your time. They also have a combination blade that is .097 kerf that would work better for ripping.

Definitely have to deal with the law of diminishing returns. Thinner blades waste less wood, true, but may not give as good a cut surface due to greater blade deflection. Also, you'll need to feed slowly with that blade, so what is your time worth compared to wood wasted. Others have already alluded to the cost/benefit situation. You'll need to figure that out.

One more point, in defense of papadan, who suggested the bandsaw, which you said you didn't have. You've indicated that you will be doing this type of cut a lot over many years. Maybe it's time to get the bandsaw?

Are you doing bent laminations? or what is the purpose? That might help with other ideas…
 
#25 · (Edited by Moderator)
Purely because I like wasting my time on stuff like this.
A 1/32" slice of 8/4 lumber is equal to 0.005208 bdft per lineal foot. Therefore, you need to rip 192 of lumber to save 1 bdft. Assuming a $10/bdft (which pricey, but not super pricey) you would need to rip 3072 to save $160. Assuming the typical rip cut is 4 long, that s 768 cuts. Assuming you make 10 cuts/day, that s 77 days, or a 2.5 months. Not that bad.

The question I have, just for information purposes, is what is a typical kerf for a bandsaw blade?

- isotope
Also would like to note that no one has taken in account that he is going to have to buy a blade anyway, so deduct that from the cost of the infinity and he is only paying what, $80.00 more?

Even though, I agree with Nubs and sawdustdad.
 
#26 · (Edited by Moderator)
INML If you have found a blade that meets your desires and can be bought at a price you are happy with and it will make your workday better for you then move on with a smile on your face.

Some nice people here in general and with honest intentions to help a fellow LJ; but the solution to your problem seems to be solved. Now, I know that you are thankful to everyone for their help and concerns and you can go happily back to work.

It still amazes me how people on this site jump in to help a fellow LJ leave with a smile and a problem solved. larry
 
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