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ebonizing epoxy?

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Forum topic by douginaz posted 09-21-2010 04:42 PM 2981 views 2 times favorited 18 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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douginaz

220 posts in 3468 days


09-21-2010 04:42 PM

Topic tags/keywords: question

Hello Team, I am making a small reproduction “buckboard” wagon. It is for “ABY” which I have carved in the foot rest. I would like to fill the letters with black epoxy but am not sure how to go about making it black?

Any ideas?

Thanks, Doug in AZ.

-- If you need craft books - please visit our small business at http://www.wittywife.com


18 replies so far

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hairy

2384 posts in 2998 days


#1 posted 09-21-2010 07:34 PM

I have never tried this for what you want to do, but I have used this product before. It is a 2 part epoxy.
It’s not quite black, but it is dark gray.The epoxy is black, the hardener is white.Normally you would mix equal parts, maybe you could use less hardener.
It’s easy to work with, locally available in most auto parts stores, and cleans up with water.
Just a thought…

http://jbweld.net/products/jbweld.php

-- stay thirsty my friends...

View Lee Barker's profile

Lee Barker

2170 posts in 2317 days


#2 posted 09-21-2010 07:51 PM

Here’s my trick, taught me by Robert Miller many years ago: I light a candle (in a holder) and hold over it an empty can, nearly any size. It will get warm!

I crouch down so I can see that the flame is hitting the bottom of the can just so, depositing lots of carbon. (To be quaint, call it lampblack.) I let this go on for a few minutes. Then I extinguish the candle and invert the can and use the blackened bottom as my mixing site. The carbon, er, ye olde lampblacke, does a great job of tinting the goo.

-- "...in his brain, which is as dry as the remainder biscuit after a voyage, he hath strange places cramm'd with observation, the which he vents in mangled forms." --Shakespeare, "As You Like It"

View Gene Howe's profile

Gene Howe

8259 posts in 2895 days


#3 posted 09-21-2010 08:55 PM

I use acrylic artist’s paints to color mine.
You could get real fancy and fill it with crushed turquoise….of course I have no idea where you might find any around where you guys live…hehehe.

I’m in Snowflake, BTW.

-- Gene 'The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him.' G. K. Chesterton

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douginaz

220 posts in 3468 days


#4 posted 09-22-2010 03:07 AM

Thanks Guys, I had forgotten about lamp black and didn’t know you could mix acrylic with the epoxy, JB weld and I go way back, I even considered bondo but getting the color right would be tough. I have too much to fill for the lamp black but appreciate the reminder, think I will go with the acrylic, I have plenty to try, I also looked at the big box store and found a product used to repair tubs and tiles, just a fill in. I appreciate all the answers.
Later,
Doug in AZ.

Hello Snowflake you lucky dog! It’s still hotter than a popcorn fart here in the valley.

-- If you need craft books - please visit our small business at http://www.wittywife.com

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RichClark

157 posts in 2896 days


#5 posted 09-22-2010 03:22 AM

In the box store look in the Tile area and maybe in paints but If ya can find it (its there ask) get “trans-tints” they mix water/oil/whatever and are fine for what your doing..

-- Duct Tape is the Force! It has a light side and a dark side and it Binds the Universe together!

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dustbunny

1149 posts in 2761 days


#6 posted 09-22-2010 03:29 AM

I use Mixol found at Woodcraft stores.
http://www.woodcraft.com/Catalog/ProductPage.aspx?prodid=16586&ss=d79abec8-2677-4cab-9dcc-c6621e79e16a
I add a drop to my epoxy and have used it to glue in ebony inlay.
When it is dry and finished you can’t tell it is epoxy, black as can be.
Works for me,

Lisa

-- Imagination rules the world. ~ Napoleon Bonaparte ~ http://quiltedwood.com

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Tony_S

607 posts in 2549 days


#7 posted 09-22-2010 03:36 AM

Lots of good ideas here…

http://www.epoxyworks.com/21/pdf/Ew21_pigments.pdf

-- It is the mark of an educated mind to be able to entertain a thought without accepting it. Aristotle

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Bob #2

3809 posts in 3488 days


#8 posted 09-22-2010 05:03 AM

I use laser toner.
Yheres always a spare cartridge around somewhere.

-- A mind, like a home, is furnished by its owner

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douginaz

220 posts in 3468 days


#9 posted 09-22-2010 11:16 AM

Wow, thanks for all the responses, several great ideas. I have decided to use the colorant epoxy for enamel I found at the big box store. I filled the letters yesterday and will give it the full 24 hours is says to let it cure. $5.00 and premixed, how could you go wrong? Time will tell, I will let all know how this came out, hope I don’t have to go to plan B and remake the piece. Wish me luck.

Later,
Doug in AZ.

-- If you need craft books - please visit our small business at http://www.wittywife.com

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douginaz

220 posts in 3468 days


#10 posted 09-23-2010 12:22 PM

Well, I have two failures to report. first was the black ceramic paint, I followed all the rules, clean dry no loose particles etc. I can only surmise that they meant 24 hours per coat of drying because it is still wet after 48 hours. Yesterday when I got home I made a second foot rest, carved it out and went at it again, this time I used 15 minute epoxy from PenState, I mixed black acrylic paint with the body of the epoxy til I got the color right, mixed in not quite equall measure of hardener, same result, not cured after twelve hours, I’m only talking 1/8” deep. I must have something going on with the tanic acid in the oak that I am not aware of. Anyone have any ideas? Remaking this foot rest is getting pretty old.
Thanks,
Doug in AZ.

-- If you need craft books - please visit our small business at http://www.wittywife.com

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miserybob

88 posts in 2511 days


#11 posted 09-23-2010 01:24 PM

Generally, a failure like that means one of two things: either you didn’t mix it well enough (or long enough), or there was too much colorant and it threw the mix off (or it was chemically incompatible). You do have to be pretty precise with the amount of resin vs. hardener, how are you measuring your mix? I use West System epoxy and they have special pumps that measure out the correct amounts.

I use epoxy inlay on oak all the time and have no problems.

I’d echo the reccomendations above about the Mixols. Since you only need a few drops to give you really good color, there’s little risk of overpowering the mix. They’re expensive, but a little goes a long way.

Don’t give up! I do this all the time, it’s a fun technique. Here’s a doorbell cover I did recently….

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Bob #2

3809 posts in 3488 days


#12 posted 09-23-2010 02:22 PM

I use 5 minute epoxy with laser toner.
For brown tones I use artists acrylic and 5 min epoxy.

From bowls

-- A mind, like a home, is furnished by its owner

View Gene Howe's profile

Gene Howe

8259 posts in 2895 days


#13 posted 09-23-2010 03:00 PM

Doug,
My primary epoxies for filling are West Systems or System 3. Another product, found in craft stores, is “Clearcast” For smaller cavities.
Each product has it’s own mixing requirements that cannot be shorted without reeeeely lengthening the cure time.
I have never had to add so much acrylic paint that it affected the cure.
Never tried Mixol as the acrylic paint works well for my applications. (mostly filling cavities in mesquite).
BTW, I’ve not encountered any woods whose properties affected epoxy cure time.

-- Gene 'The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him.' G. K. Chesterton

View Lee Barker's profile

Lee Barker

2170 posts in 2317 days


#14 posted 09-23-2010 04:03 PM

I’m sure this is frustrating for you, Doug.

The two important takeaways for all of us at this point are, YMMV and Test, Test, Test.

-- "...in his brain, which is as dry as the remainder biscuit after a voyage, he hath strange places cramm'd with observation, the which he vents in mangled forms." --Shakespeare, "As You Like It"

View pommy's profile

pommy

1697 posts in 3157 days


#15 posted 09-23-2010 11:44 PM

any good acrylic paint works great

-- cut it saw it scrap it SKPE: ANDREW.CARTER69

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